Hey guys haven’t been able to find anything on a very specific question I have about the DCOE’s. I just bought a newer DCOE for my 12A along with a manifold and while I’m positive my carb is genuine I’m not so sure about the manifold. My question being, is there a slight difference in the intakes between the older and the newer DCOEs? And flanges and bolt holes line up however the choke cover hits the top of the manifold which would be easy enough to modify but I also notice that the inspection cover isn’t fully concealed by the manifold either. Is that basically just a huge vacuum leak or is that just what it do? I can add pictures if this isn’t clear.

 

Pics would help.

 

sorry if these are stupid questions I just don’t know.


Here you see the choke cover just barely preventing it from lining up. Or is there some sort of thick gasket/spacer I’m missing?

I was more concerned about this area here and the hole in the inspection cover. Is that something I should worry about?

 

The hole in the plate is by design and Weber did that on later DCOE's. It's a vent hole - this thread from lotuselan.net explains it.
https://lotuselan.net/forums/viewtop...t=24632&start=

I don't know about the mating surfaces not sitting flush. I have an IDA and it sits flush on the intake with or without its phenolic spacers. Lots of guys here have experience with the DCOE though so I'm sure somebody will chime in.

 

i've always seen phenolic spacer between carb and intake.

 

Technically an anti vibration spacer, not phenolic.

If that is a Racing Beat upper, it was designed for a Dell'Orto DHLA. There was another manifold designed for a Mikuni PHH.


It's certainly nothing that a little file work can't fix. I have yet to see an aftermarket intake manifold for anything that didn't require a little bit of finessing to work.

 

Get a spacer and modify it to clear the choke cover. That way you don't mess with any metal.

 

That's a manifold from Pierce Manifolds, I've got a couple of them and they both needed modifying for a DCOE to bolt up flat. Using some spacers is an easy fix if you don't feel like filing, but it really is a very small amount of material.

A tiny hole maybe a millimeter or two deep drilled for the inspection plate screw and then some half rounds filed into the tops of the runners for the choke assembly to clear, if you don't feel like buying a spacer.

 

Thank you for the input guys very helpful!

 

I have the same setup, the manifold has been grind a bit to make the carb fit.
By the way in winter you may want that cold start system to be wired (helps a lot in my case).

 

I hear ya! Winters around my parts aren’t to RWD friendly to begin with so that wasn’t a huge concern for me but I have. Kept the system in place just have it disconnected so I can make that call later