1st gen 13b-REW Redo....
#1
1st gen 13b-REW Redo....
Well, I cracked a front Iron on the motor in November from detonating/pre-igniting for about two months which from some large carbon build up that was heating up. The motor had lasted over 40,000 miles of pretty hard abuse so I was not at all mad "especially considering it was my first rotary motor I built" and at first I was not sure that I was going to build it back up. Instead buy a 3rd gen to put all my "stuff" in, so I would have a nicer car. The 3rd gen thing did not exactly play out like I wanted it to, and unfortunately I got the itch so I started ordering more "stuff" to build the motor back up stronger and to have MORE POWER! I figure this will be a good place to recored my progress and hopefully keep me motivated. lol
I have received my porting tools in the mail today, so I decided to give my throttle body a try. I still need to polish it but the shape I think is good enough. Here are the before and after shots.
I also sent my front and rear counter weight out to CLR motorsports to have them balance the rotating assembly and also scallop and lighten some low compression S4 rotors. Supposedly with the modified low compression rotors they will be able to handle 23-25 lbs of boost on pump gas with my T-66 turbo with a .98 hot side. Here are what the rotors will look like.
Today I started hacking up a new harness for the car. It is a 3rd gen automatic harness, so I am taking out all the tranny/emission stuff that I don't need and also replace some of the necessary wires.
Here are the connectors I am going to use to clean up the engine bay and to make things a little easer to take apart.
Here is the stupid shifter I bought on a whim and have not been able to use yet. It is actually pretty neat, its a Stillway 0-400 shifter that makes you only able to shift from 1st-2nd and then all you have to do is push up and it will guide it from 2nd to 3rd and blocks out 5th gear.
Here is the same turbo I had on the car at first and will still use (I need to polish it back up), its a Turbonetics T-66 Ball Bearing. I did have a crack starting on the manifold so I fixed that and then Zach from APE got a hold of it and made a brace/heat transfer plate so hopefully it wont crack again.
Here is a pic of where the motor cracked, right on the banjo bolt. BTW the regular 1st gen cover is on it because I made that block into a dummy engine so I could properly line up my new motor mounts.
And here is the porting templates and the oil metering pump block off plate (I will run 2 cycle pre-mix in the gas tank) from Pineapple Racing.
I have also done some work to the my custom engine mount that has to be used to mount the 13b-rew into a 1st gen. I will get some pics of it up soon.
I have received my porting tools in the mail today, so I decided to give my throttle body a try. I still need to polish it but the shape I think is good enough. Here are the before and after shots.
I also sent my front and rear counter weight out to CLR motorsports to have them balance the rotating assembly and also scallop and lighten some low compression S4 rotors. Supposedly with the modified low compression rotors they will be able to handle 23-25 lbs of boost on pump gas with my T-66 turbo with a .98 hot side. Here are what the rotors will look like.
Today I started hacking up a new harness for the car. It is a 3rd gen automatic harness, so I am taking out all the tranny/emission stuff that I don't need and also replace some of the necessary wires.
Here are the connectors I am going to use to clean up the engine bay and to make things a little easer to take apart.
Here is the stupid shifter I bought on a whim and have not been able to use yet. It is actually pretty neat, its a Stillway 0-400 shifter that makes you only able to shift from 1st-2nd and then all you have to do is push up and it will guide it from 2nd to 3rd and blocks out 5th gear.
Here is the same turbo I had on the car at first and will still use (I need to polish it back up), its a Turbonetics T-66 Ball Bearing. I did have a crack starting on the manifold so I fixed that and then Zach from APE got a hold of it and made a brace/heat transfer plate so hopefully it wont crack again.
Here is a pic of where the motor cracked, right on the banjo bolt. BTW the regular 1st gen cover is on it because I made that block into a dummy engine so I could properly line up my new motor mounts.
And here is the porting templates and the oil metering pump block off plate (I will run 2 cycle pre-mix in the gas tank) from Pineapple Racing.
I have also done some work to the my custom engine mount that has to be used to mount the 13b-rew into a 1st gen. I will get some pics of it up soon.
#7
Thanks,
The porting templates are from Pineapple racing, it is labled a medium street port and I will probably use it for a good base line and make some small adjustments.
What Carlos from CLR quoted me was the following
Port Phasing ( scallops ) $ 365.oo
Lightening 350.oo
Balancing the rotating assembly (which has to be done) 200.oo
87 Turbo II Rotors (used but in excellent conditions) 250. ea
Hope this helps,
Kevin
The porting templates are from Pineapple racing, it is labled a medium street port and I will probably use it for a good base line and make some small adjustments.
What Carlos from CLR quoted me was the following
Port Phasing ( scallops ) $ 365.oo
Lightening 350.oo
Balancing the rotating assembly (which has to be done) 200.oo
87 Turbo II Rotors (used but in excellent conditions) 250. ea
Hope this helps,
Kevin
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#10
Turbo widebody FB
iTrader: (1)
Any idea of what the compression ratio ends up being with the scallops? Pretty awesome setup and I may consider doing something similar when I need to tear my engine down again.
How long did the porting on the throttle body end up taking you? Looks like you did an great job and it should make a noticeable difference.
How long did the porting on the throttle body end up taking you? Looks like you did an great job and it should make a noticeable difference.
#11
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
Thanks,
The porting templates are from Pineapple racing, it is labled a medium street port and I will probably use it for a good base line and make some small adjustments.
What Carlos from CLR quoted me was the following
Port Phasing ( scallops ) $ 365.oo
Lightening 350.oo
Balancing the rotating assembly (which has to be done) 200.oo
87 Turbo II Rotors (used but in excellent conditions) 250. ea
Hope this helps,
Kevin
The porting templates are from Pineapple racing, it is labled a medium street port and I will probably use it for a good base line and make some small adjustments.
What Carlos from CLR quoted me was the following
Port Phasing ( scallops ) $ 365.oo
Lightening 350.oo
Balancing the rotating assembly (which has to be done) 200.oo
87 Turbo II Rotors (used but in excellent conditions) 250. ea
Hope this helps,
Kevin
#14
Any idea of what the compression ratio ends up being with the scallops? Pretty awesome setup and I may consider doing something similar when I need to tear my engine down again.
I am not sure how much it effects the compression ratio. I would deffently look into it next time you build, supposily the scallops are guaranteed 50 hp.
How long did the porting on the throttle body end up taking you? Looks like you did an great job and it should make a noticeable difference.
I am not sure how much it effects the compression ratio. I would deffently look into it next time you build, supposily the scallops are guaranteed 50 hp.
How long did the porting on the throttle body end up taking you? Looks like you did an great job and it should make a noticeable difference.
#17
Rotoholic Moderookie
iTrader: (4)
Thanks,
The porting templates are from Pineapple racing, it is labled a medium street port and I will probably use it for a good base line and make some small adjustments.
What Carlos from CLR quoted me was the following
Port Phasing ( scallops ) $ 365.oo
Lightening 350.oo
Balancing the rotating assembly (which has to be done) 200.oo
87 Turbo II Rotors (used but in excellent conditions) 250. ea
Hope this helps,
Kevin
The porting templates are from Pineapple racing, it is labled a medium street port and I will probably use it for a good base line and make some small adjustments.
What Carlos from CLR quoted me was the following
Port Phasing ( scallops ) $ 365.oo
Lightening 350.oo
Balancing the rotating assembly (which has to be done) 200.oo
87 Turbo II Rotors (used but in excellent conditions) 250. ea
Hope this helps,
Kevin
Hmmm... Makes me wonder if he'd do lightening and balancing of an 84-85 12a assembly (without the scallops). $550 for lightening and balancing of the rotating assembly isn't a bad price, and could definitely be beneficial in my "Ultimate Streetable 12a" build.
Jon
#18
Apathy Isn't Laziness
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Edmonton
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Sorry Dan but you should be careful what you say, you may have a pinched seal again, and then you'll be sorry.
As a side note, did you get everything fixed up and good with the engine?
Kevin, that looks mighty fine.
#21
just dont care.
iTrader: (6)
hey, awesome project.
i was just wondering why you think that scalloping and balancing those s4 rotors will allow you to run 23-25psi on pumpgas. i dont see that happening unless CLR lowers the compression of the rotors significantly. if the rotors are still near 8.5:1 you're not gonna be able to run much over 19-20psi on 93 octane without the gasoline igniting itself.
just some food for thought.
i was just wondering why you think that scalloping and balancing those s4 rotors will allow you to run 23-25psi on pumpgas. i dont see that happening unless CLR lowers the compression of the rotors significantly. if the rotors are still near 8.5:1 you're not gonna be able to run much over 19-20psi on 93 octane without the gasoline igniting itself.
just some food for thought.
#25
hey, awesome project.
i was just wondering why you think that scalloping and balancing those s4 rotors will allow you to run 23-25psi on pumpgas. i dont see that happening unless CLR lowers the compression of the rotors significantly. if the rotors are still near 8.5:1 you're not gonna be able to run much over 19-20psi on 93 octane without the gasoline igniting itself.
just some food for thought.
i was just wondering why you think that scalloping and balancing those s4 rotors will allow you to run 23-25psi on pumpgas. i dont see that happening unless CLR lowers the compression of the rotors significantly. if the rotors are still near 8.5:1 you're not gonna be able to run much over 19-20psi on 93 octane without the gasoline igniting itself.
just some food for thought.
I am just going of what he said, I will probably run aux. injection with it when I run over 20psi on pump.
Jeezus I am not sure of the power before (never dynoed) but I could pull many a crotch rocket. lol Before the motor blew I raced a 2007 GXSR 1000 from a 70 roll and thinking he was in 2nd gear I did not brake boost. Well he was still in first so he got about a 2 car jump right off the bat. By the time he hit 160 I was only 3 lengths back. However the week before I raced him with a passenger on the back from about a 80 roll and I pulled him up to 140. Both times I was misfiring/detonating. So I would guess the car had low 400ish hp.