1st gen 13b-REW Redo....
 

Well, I cracked a front Iron on the motor in November from detonating/pre-igniting for about two months which from some large carbon build up that was heating up. The motor had lasted over 40,000 miles of pretty hard abuse so I was not at all mad "especially considering it was my first rotary motor I built" and at first I was not sure that I was going to build it back up. Instead buy a 3rd gen to put all my "stuff" in, so I would have a nicer car. The 3rd gen thing did not exactly play out like I wanted it to, and unfortunately I got the itch so I started ordering more "stuff" to build the motor back up stronger and to have MORE POWER! I figure this will be a good place to recored my progress and hopefully keep me motivated. lol

I have received my porting tools in the mail today, so I decided to give my throttle body a try. I still need to polish it but the shape I think is good enough. Here are the before and after shots.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...odybefore2.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...odybefore1.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...bodyafter2.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...bodyafter1.jpg

I also sent my front and rear counter weight out to CLR motorsports to have them balance the rotating assembly and also scallop and lighten some low compression S4 rotors. Supposedly with the modified low compression rotors they will be able to handle 23-25 lbs of boost on pump gas with my T-66 turbo with a .98 hot side. Here are what the rotors will look like.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...z/HOrotors.jpg


Today I started hacking up a new harness for the car. It is a 3rd gen automatic harness, so I am taking out all the tranny/emission stuff that I don't need and also replace some of the necessary wires.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...z/DSCN1462.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...z/DSCN1464.jpg

Here are the connectors I am going to use to clean up the engine bay and to make things a little easer to take apart.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...z/12-23047.jpg

Here is the stupid shifter I bought on a whim and have not been able to use yet. It is actually pretty neat, its a Stillway 0-400 shifter that makes you only able to shift from 1st-2nd and then all you have to do is push up and it will guide it from 2nd to 3rd and blocks out 5th gear.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...z/12-23040.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...z/12-23044.jpg

Here is the same turbo I had on the car at first and will still use (I need to polish it back up), its a Turbonetics T-66 Ball Bearing. I did have a crack starting on the manifold so I fixed that and then Zach from APE got a hold of it and made a brace/heat transfer plate so hopefully it wont crack again.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...z/12-23045.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...z/12-23046.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...z/12-23042.jpg


Here is a pic of where the motor cracked, right on the banjo bolt. BTW the regular 1st gen cover is on it because I made that block into a dummy engine so I could properly line up my new motor mounts.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...z/12-23048.jpg

And here is the porting templates and the oil metering pump block off plate (I will run 2 cycle pre-mix in the gas tank) from Pineapple Racing.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...z/12-23054.jpg

I have also done some work to the my custom engine mount that has to be used to mount the 13b-rew into a 1st gen. I will get some pics of it up soon.

Looking good. Where did you purchase that connector kit from? Would deffinately come in handy for some of the wiring on my car.

Thanks,

Summit has the kit, decent looking for under 100 bucks.

Looking good, glad to see you're rebuilding. 2 questions, who's porting template and what does CLR charge to lighten rotors. OK, 3rd question, does anything else need to be modded/changed to balace the rest of the rotating assembly for the CLR rotors?

I'm liking the throttle body and the rotor. I've never seen anything like that before. :icon_tup:

Wow looks great bro!!!

Thanks,

The porting templates are from Pineapple racing, it is labled a medium street port and I will probably use it for a good base line and make some small adjustments.

What Carlos from CLR quoted me was the following

Port Phasing ( scallops ) $ 365.oo
Lightening 350.oo
Balancing the rotating assembly (which has to be done) 200.oo
87 Turbo II Rotors (used but in excellent conditions) 250. ea


Hope this helps,
Kevin

Lookin' good!

Way to sneek the Buell in for a cameo!

LOL, Yea my garage is packed full of crap right now... the Buell is sandwiched between two engine hoist right now. lol

Any idea of what the compression ratio ends up being with the scallops? Pretty awesome setup and I may consider doing something similar when I need to tear my engine down again.

How long did the porting on the throttle body end up taking you? Looks like you did an great job and it should make a noticeable difference.

That's a bit more for the machine work than I was expecting, but I was also assuming this could only be done on new rotors so it balances out in the end. Balancing sounds quite reasonable.

Considering the caliber of work that he does I actually thought the prices where pretty good, also considering the research and development of the scallops.

Very true, I think he's the only one that does the scallops, other than an Aussie shop, iirc.

It took about 1 1/2 hours, however I still need to put some time into polishing it. Hopefully it will help out some, more than anything it got me in the porting mood. lol

Awesome........... don't regret not getting a 3rd gen. They aren't all they're cracked up to be.

Wow, this is gonna be a fun one to watch! Good luck on the build up and its looking really good, the future looks bright... for at least another 40K, lol!

Hmmm... Makes me wonder if he'd do lightening and balancing of an 84-85 12a assembly (without the scallops). $550 for lightening and balancing of the rotating assembly isn't a bad price, and could definitely be beneficial in my "Ultimate Streetable 12a" build.

Jon

:rlaugh: :rlaugh: :rlaugh:

Sorry Dan but you should be careful what you say, you may have a pinched seal again, and then you'll be sorry. :)

As a side note, did you get everything fixed up and good with the engine?

Kevin, that looks mighty fine. :icon_tup:

Lol, could happen. I did get it back together and the engine is the car again and i'm bolting everything up and fabricating mounts for things. Basically finishing touches

When is the car going to get to start up for the first time dan?

hey, awesome project.

i was just wondering why you think that scalloping and balancing those s4 rotors will allow you to run 23-25psi on pumpgas. i dont see that happening unless CLR lowers the compression of the rotors significantly. if the rotors are still near 8.5:1 you're not gonna be able to run much over 19-20psi on 93 octane without the gasoline igniting itself.

just some food for thought.

I'm hoping on having my project fired up in a month or so. We will see how that goes.

Just looking at the scallops you can assume that they would lower compression since there's more place for the air/fuel mix to compress into.

Just how much it lowers the compression and what that means for boost you'd have to ask CLR about.

Jon

How much power did that beast put down?

I am just going of what he said, I will probably run aux. injection with it when I run over 20psi on pump.


Jeezus I am not sure of the power before (never dynoed) but I could pull many a crotch rocket. lol Before the motor blew I raced a 2007 GXSR 1000 from a 70 roll and thinking he was in 2nd gear I did not brake boost. Well he was still in first so he got about a 2 car jump right off the bat. By the time he hit 160 I was only 3 lengths back. However the week before I raced him with a passenger on the back from about a 80 roll and I pulled him up to 140. Both times I was misfiring/detonating. So I would guess the car had low 400ish hp.