1979 Rx-7 E-fan Question
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
1979 Rx-7 E-fan Question
Looking at swapping in a Taurus e-fan to eliminate my belt squeal.
I was wondering what temperatures anyone runs for temp switches?
I was wondering what temperatures anyone runs for temp switches?
#2
Damn, it did start!
a dual alternator pulley should help the squeal.
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Rx7fb spirit r (01-17-21)
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I've got a dual sheeve pulley and it still does it. If I remove the fan clutch entirely, it doesn't do it. From what I've seen on the forum replacing the fan clutch is a 50/50 chance of it removing the squeal.
#4
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (1)
The OEM thermostat is 180 deg, if memory serves me correctly, which is when coolant starts flowing. Most fan switches have some hysteresis built in, so they close (turn the fan on) at a higher temp and open (turn the fan off) at a lower temp. I use a JET 60601, which turns the fan on at 195 deg and turns it off at 185. This has worked very well over the years. The fan rarely turns on in either of my cars -- turbo 13B or NA 12A. If it does come on, it's while I'm parked, and it usually doesn't take long for the temps to drop and the fan to turn off.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I was considering going with a Setrab TS-200 switch. 200F on, 185F off. Mostly because it's a lot cheaper than the Jet one you mentioned and Setrab seems a quality brand.
I've seen the FC thermoswitch is the one to go to for FD's as a safety upgrade, and even that one is way up there, around 207F.
So the 200 one should be fine.
I've seen the FC thermoswitch is the one to go to for FD's as a safety upgrade, and even that one is way up there, around 207F.
So the 200 one should be fine.
Last edited by Ta-Aikah; 09-30-20 at 10:13 AM.
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
Whack some dielectric grease in the connection, that's keep it from corroding
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#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The next question would be tapping a 1/8th NPT into the water neck above the thermostat or buying an intermediary to go in the upper hose?
Like this:
Like this:
#10
Full Member
It's very important getting two belts with exactly the same lenght. I bought 6 belts with the option to bring 4 back after testing in the car. I think this will be easier and cheaper then upgrade the battery and the generator feeding the e-fan.
Last edited by Rx7fb spirit r; 10-01-20 at 01:00 PM.
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I've already picked up the e-fan and alt upgrade for the install. Down the road, I also plan on reinstalling and tuning the 45 DCOE I've got. An e-fan is the best way to get uninterrupted, delicious intake noise. Plus doing the work is most of the fun.
The belts I do have are sold as a matching set with the dual pulley as a kit, anyway.
The belts I do have are sold as a matching set with the dual pulley as a kit, anyway.
#12
Full Member
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Bit of an update after a while, finally got the fan installed and wired. Decided to run with the 89 Turbo alt rated at 80 amps. Voltage goes from 14.3 to 14.25 when the fan comes on at idle, so not even going to worry about mounting the Taurus alt just yet. Seems to work well with the 190 temp switch I've got. I'm going to install an indicator light so I know if the fan is running when I'm on the highway, if it were running at highway speeds I'd need a higher temp switch. Fan fits pretty well, definitely tight, but it fits.
The main objective of eliminating belt squeal is accomplished. 7k rpm all rotary noise. Perfect. Will update if anything happens.
The main objective of eliminating belt squeal is accomplished. 7k rpm all rotary noise. Perfect. Will update if anything happens.
#14
Old [Sch|F]ool
Reinstall the air pump. That will eliminate problems.
I put one on the Dell'Orto carbed 13B in my '81 just so I could keep running the clutch fan so I can keep using the stock alternator.
I put one on the Dell'Orto carbed 13B in my '81 just so I could keep running the clutch fan so I can keep using the stock alternator.
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