13b drivetrain into 12a car, bolt in?
#1
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Location: cleveland, ohio
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13b drivetrain into 12a car, bolt in?
I think I might be doing a drivetrain transplant in a few weeks, just wondered what, if any, difficulties I might run into. I'd be going from a 13b gsl-se car to a 12a car, probably a gs.
-Can i just switch over the motor mounts and the 13b would bolt right in?
-Is the power steering system any different? (ie, would I want to keep the gslse system)
-I'd like to switch over my posi diff, complete from rotor to rotor, direct bolt in?
-I'm also switching over the gslse spindle and strut assemblies, brakes included, direct bolt in?
Anything else to watch out for?
thanks guys, much appreciated
Jesse Busby
-Can i just switch over the motor mounts and the 13b would bolt right in?
-Is the power steering system any different? (ie, would I want to keep the gslse system)
-I'd like to switch over my posi diff, complete from rotor to rotor, direct bolt in?
-I'm also switching over the gslse spindle and strut assemblies, brakes included, direct bolt in?
Anything else to watch out for?
thanks guys, much appreciated
Jesse Busby
#2
Respecognize!
your in cleveland?
most of it is direct. and anything small things that i might not be aware of, you have the parts car for. basically, the shell is the exact same.
the crap comes when you try to work the wiring harness for the motor.
most of it is direct. and anything small things that i might not be aware of, you have the parts car for. basically, the shell is the exact same.
the crap comes when you try to work the wiring harness for the motor.
#5
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The 13B is not a direct bolt in as the difference is in the position of the crossmember. There's a number of options...
1. Purchase the special engine bracket from RB which allows the engine to drop straight in.
2. Slot the crossmember 10mm and the engine bracket by 10mm by to account for the 20mm difference in length or...
3. ...this can also be done by hammering the engine bracket flat.
1. Purchase the special engine bracket from RB which allows the engine to drop straight in.
2. Slot the crossmember 10mm and the engine bracket by 10mm by to account for the 20mm difference in length or...
3. ...this can also be done by hammering the engine bracket flat.
#6
Old [Sch|F]ool
Jesse is that you?
REVHED's got you the hookup.
P/S was only available as an option on GSL '84-up, and GSL-SE. If it's not a GSL/-SE, then it's manual steering. To swap it into a non-PS car will require the steering column in addition to all of the obvious things.
Suspension is direct bolt in, no problem. Everything is interchangeable with two caveats: You need the correct driveshaft for your rearend (basically, there's '79-82 driveshaft and '83-85 driveshaft. There's also a special short one for '84-85 automatics) and for the brakes, you need to save the brake cables and you will need adapter hoses if you're swapping into a '79-80.
If you find a '79-80 chassis, contact me before you do anything with it, I might give you one hell of a bargain for it
REVHED's got you the hookup.
P/S was only available as an option on GSL '84-up, and GSL-SE. If it's not a GSL/-SE, then it's manual steering. To swap it into a non-PS car will require the steering column in addition to all of the obvious things.
Suspension is direct bolt in, no problem. Everything is interchangeable with two caveats: You need the correct driveshaft for your rearend (basically, there's '79-82 driveshaft and '83-85 driveshaft. There's also a special short one for '84-85 automatics) and for the brakes, you need to save the brake cables and you will need adapter hoses if you're swapping into a '79-80.
If you find a '79-80 chassis, contact me before you do anything with it, I might give you one hell of a bargain for it
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