12a Rebuild: Start-Up Suggestions after assembly
#1
12a Rebuild: Start-Up Suggestions after assembly
Been busy using every spare minute to finish the rebuild and installation.
Behold!! The stock 12A....
No modifications just yet. Main goal is to get it running again. Just a few small details to go:
replace melted exhaust hanger
bleed brakes after replacing master cylinder
replace fuse for fuel pump
connect battery
pop on the air cleaner
and put in some oil and coolant, just for good measure.
Any suggestions on how to proceed with the initial start-up would be greatly appreciated.
I do plan on compiling a photo sequence of my first rotary rebuild, but I really want to get it back on the road.
And thanks to all to helped me in the last 10 months. I could not have gotten this far without this place.
Behold!! The stock 12A....
No modifications just yet. Main goal is to get it running again. Just a few small details to go:
replace melted exhaust hanger
bleed brakes after replacing master cylinder
replace fuse for fuel pump
connect battery
pop on the air cleaner
and put in some oil and coolant, just for good measure.
Any suggestions on how to proceed with the initial start-up would be greatly appreciated.
I do plan on compiling a photo sequence of my first rotary rebuild, but I really want to get it back on the road.
And thanks to all to helped me in the last 10 months. I could not have gotten this far without this place.
#2
Lapping = Fapping
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It looks like you put in a lot of work, there. I always start a fresh rebuild without all the extra stuff hooked up because if there was a problem, it's less to tear back down. I also only add oil. If you run it for less than a minute, it's fine. If the engine starts up and runs for me, then I add coolant and check for leaks. Then I start it back up and let it run for like 20 minutes checking it over.
#3
1st-Class Engine Janitor
iTrader: (15)
Looking good, Tim. Only suggestion is, if it won't start immediately, don't get frustrated & check all the basics. KISS principle applies.
Last build I did (and I've done several over many years) for example, I had R1 & R2 plug wires swapped. crank, compression, no start. Took me a long time to realize it, even though I was staring RIGHT AT IT THE WHOLE TIME.
Oh, and before cranking, turn the ignition switch on and let the fuel pump run up pressure & fill the bowls while you check for leaks and bowl-fill levels. Best to find those before lighting the candle.
Last build I did (and I've done several over many years) for example, I had R1 & R2 plug wires swapped. crank, compression, no start. Took me a long time to realize it, even though I was staring RIGHT AT IT THE WHOLE TIME.
Oh, and before cranking, turn the ignition switch on and let the fuel pump run up pressure & fill the bowls while you check for leaks and bowl-fill levels. Best to find those before lighting the candle.
#4
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i like to crank the engine with no spark plugs until it shows oil pressure. this does two things, it lets you know it has oil pressure, and B, with no plugs it spits out the excess assembly lube/oil/vaseline gunk.
then you look it over, put the plugs in it, and see if it runs!
its a big enough job that there is always something that isn't happy right away
then you look it over, put the plugs in it, and see if it runs!
its a big enough job that there is always something that isn't happy right away
#5
Thanks, great suggestions.
1. Add Oil only
2. Crank without plugs to verify oil pressure and spit out assembly gunk
3. Replace fuel pump fuse
4. Plug it up
5. Turn on key and wait for floats to fill
4. Start (hope)
5. Add coolant, run and check for leaks.
And yes, I am anticipating tracking everything down again.
Waiting on delivery of front brake pads and a front rubber exhaust hanger, mine melted from being soaked in hot oil, before leaving the neighborhood.
1. Add Oil only
2. Crank without plugs to verify oil pressure and spit out assembly gunk
3. Replace fuel pump fuse
4. Plug it up
5. Turn on key and wait for floats to fill
4. Start (hope)
5. Add coolant, run and check for leaks.
And yes, I am anticipating tracking everything down again.
Waiting on delivery of front brake pads and a front rubber exhaust hanger, mine melted from being soaked in hot oil, before leaving the neighborhood.
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#9
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I agree with Jeff 20b and j9 fd3sthey pretty much hit the nail on the head also make sure you have all your wiring correct. I did one and I mixed up the coil wires ,it wanted to start but wouldn't. I switchEd the coil wires after realizing what I did and it fired right up
#10
I agree with Jeff 20b and j9 fd3sthey pretty much hit the nail on the head also make sure you have all your wiring correct. I did one and I mixed up the coil wires ,it wanted to start but wouldn't. I switchEd the coil wires after realizing what I did and it fired right up
I knew when taking it apart it would be months before I got it back together so every wire was photographed in place and labeled before removal.
We'll see this weekend if I got it right.
#11
Tonight:
Removed spark plugs.
Filled with oil.
(fuel pump fuse not installed)
Crank to confirm oil pressure.
Now that was a tense 15-20 seconds, seemed like forever, and there it was. On the stock dash oil pressure gauge it went above the 30 mark. I do not recall it going that high when starting before the rebuild, at that low of an RPM.
When I had the stack bolted together, I hand turned the e-shaft pulley just to fell for anything dragging/grinding or not expected. And it whistled. Turned slower, it went away, faster and higher pitch. Compressed air shooting out the spark plug holes. It did the same thing tonight. If I had not heard it before on the engine stand and knew what it was, t would have freaked.
Maybe tomorrow I'll get the wheels back on and roll her out of the garage.
Removed spark plugs.
Filled with oil.
(fuel pump fuse not installed)
Crank to confirm oil pressure.
Now that was a tense 15-20 seconds, seemed like forever, and there it was. On the stock dash oil pressure gauge it went above the 30 mark. I do not recall it going that high when starting before the rebuild, at that low of an RPM.
When I had the stack bolted together, I hand turned the e-shaft pulley just to fell for anything dragging/grinding or not expected. And it whistled. Turned slower, it went away, faster and higher pitch. Compressed air shooting out the spark plug holes. It did the same thing tonight. If I had not heard it before on the engine stand and knew what it was, t would have freaked.
Maybe tomorrow I'll get the wheels back on and roll her out of the garage.
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