What did you do to your FB today?
08-13-13, 07:29 PM
#3526
Ready or not...
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Taos, NM
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Right now I'm dealing with the fact that I have had to put transmission fluid in 4 times since I had the tranny fixed... no sign of a leak!
It's like she burns it, or eats it????? I love my car, I love my car, I...Nice stripes!
Last edited by Ms. DIY; 08-13-13 at 07:39 PM.
08-13-13, 08:14 PM
#3527
rusty everything
I Finally started putting it back together. Installed new energy suspension bushings in the control arm and pressed in new ball joints and put the front suspension back together. New tie rods will be soon.
08-13-13, 11:39 PM
#3528
Originally Posted by Ms. DIY
Hey, you're right... I was blind in frustration. I don't know if I'll leave it alone. It looks badly connected at that...
Right now I'm dealing with the fact that I have had to put transmission fluid in 4 times since I had the tranny fixed... no sign of a leak! It's like she burns it, or eats it????? I love my car, I love my car, I...
Nice stripes!
Right now I'm dealing with the fact that I have had to put transmission fluid in 4 times since I had the tranny fixed... no sign of a leak!
It's like she burns it, or eats it????? I love my car, I love my car, I...Nice stripes!
08-14-13, 01:16 AM
#3529
ROTFL! Stop it, you're killing me!
So I started the speedo cable swap, digging into the dash bits first. Got the wheel unbolted and the steering column covers off. Unfortunately, I don't have a puller for the wheel, so I stopped there.
Then went under the car and disconnected the speedo cable from the driven gear on the tranny. Pulled the whole inner cable right out. Completely intact. Not a thing wrong with it. Hmmmm. I guess it just got pulled out of the back of the speedo.
So I slid the cable back in and attached my cordless drill to it. The speedo works. Hmmm. So I attached the cable back to the driven gear on the tranny and tightened it all down. Got the interior back together. I'll go out tomorrow for a test drive.
It'll either work or not. If it doesn't work, then something's fubared with my driven gear, in which case I'm fine because I have an S4 gear. If it works, I'm done. I know the speedo is going to be off as the tranny has a Miata gear set and the rear end is from a GSL-SE. And I'm running 205/50/16 tires. I know I should figure out the proper driven gear but the math hurts my head. Right now I'll settle for the stock 17-tooth gear (if it works) or the 20-tooth S4 gear.
Really hoping I don't have to swap the gear...not looking forward to getting covered in gear oil.
fm
So I started the speedo cable swap, digging into the dash bits first. Got the wheel unbolted and the steering column covers off. Unfortunately, I don't have a puller for the wheel, so I stopped there.
Then went under the car and disconnected the speedo cable from the driven gear on the tranny. Pulled the whole inner cable right out. Completely intact. Not a thing wrong with it. Hmmmm. I guess it just got pulled out of the back of the speedo.
So I slid the cable back in and attached my cordless drill to it. The speedo works. Hmmm. So I attached the cable back to the driven gear on the tranny and tightened it all down. Got the interior back together. I'll go out tomorrow for a test drive.
It'll either work or not. If it doesn't work, then something's fubared with my driven gear, in which case I'm fine because I have an S4 gear. If it works, I'm done. I know the speedo is going to be off as the tranny has a Miata gear set and the rear end is from a GSL-SE. And I'm running 205/50/16 tires. I know I should figure out the proper driven gear but the math hurts my head. Right now I'll settle for the stock 17-tooth gear (if it works) or the 20-tooth S4 gear.
Really hoping I don't have to swap the gear...not looking forward to getting covered in gear oil.
fm
I guess I'll be pulling the gear in the tranny tonight.
08-14-13, 03:07 PM
#3532
Or, use this as an opportunity to swap the oil out.
Also, can't speak to the FB's but on the '80's it is possible to work your arm up to the rear of the speedo without removing the cluster, & disconnect the speedo cable - - only need to drop out the air duct that crosses under the steering column.
80 cluster can also be sneaked out from behind the steering wheel with out pulling it, too. Just barely. Perhaps you can ease the cluster forward enough to access the rear without having to pull the wheel.
08-14-13, 03:37 PM
#3533
Thanks Divin,
I don't think I'll need to deal with removing the speedo as my drill test shows that I can get the cable seated in the speedo and get it to spin. I'll try raising the rear of the cart. The oil is brand new, so I'm not swapping it out just yet.
fm
I don't think I'll need to deal with removing the speedo as my drill test shows that I can get the cable seated in the speedo and get it to spin. I'll try raising the rear of the cart. The oil is brand new, so I'm not swapping it out just yet.
fm
08-14-13, 03:49 PM
#3534
Bled the rear brakes after replacing the rear pads on the GSL-EV. Still a little spongy. Bought speed bleeders and will put those on tonight and do it again. My cheepie vacuum bleeder I never liked because it sucks air in around the bleeder valve so you always get some bubbles in the fluid. These bubbles make it difficult to tell when you really have all the air out. This would be true of all vacuum bleeder setups.
Verified that my electric motor is not the culprit in blowing up the motor controller. I put a shunt in the cable and watched the current waveform with a scope. For the record it is pulling 51 amps from a 12V battery to turn the motor and transmission in neutral. Sent in the motor controller for repair.
Tonight the aforementioned brake work and finish up a rust repair on the interior. I will also finally get around to pulling the sun faded burgundy panel from the right side so I can show a before and after comparison shot of the SEM paint.
MS DIY, I can't imagine a leak in an auto transmission where there is no evidence. How much are you adding in how many miles? Consider that a single drop will spread out to cover several inches of smooth concrete.
Verified that my electric motor is not the culprit in blowing up the motor controller. I put a shunt in the cable and watched the current waveform with a scope. For the record it is pulling 51 amps from a 12V battery to turn the motor and transmission in neutral. Sent in the motor controller for repair.
Tonight the aforementioned brake work and finish up a rust repair on the interior. I will also finally get around to pulling the sun faded burgundy panel from the right side so I can show a before and after comparison shot of the SEM paint.
MS DIY, I can't imagine a leak in an auto transmission where there is no evidence. How much are you adding in how many miles? Consider that a single drop will spread out to cover several inches of smooth concrete.
08-14-13, 03:54 PM
#3535
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,902
Received 2,644 Likes
on
1,873 Posts
Raise the rear of the car as high as you possibly can, safely - - will minimize your gear oil loss.
Or, use this as an opportunity to swap the oil out.
Also, can't speak to the FB's but on the '80's it is possible to work your arm up to the rear of the speedo without removing the cluster, & disconnect the speedo cable - - only need to drop out the air duct that crosses under the steering column.
80 cluster can also be sneaked out from behind the steering wheel with out pulling it, too. Just barely. Perhaps you can ease the cluster forward enough to access the rear without having to pull the wheel.
Or, use this as an opportunity to swap the oil out.
Also, can't speak to the FB's but on the '80's it is possible to work your arm up to the rear of the speedo without removing the cluster, & disconnect the speedo cable - - only need to drop out the air duct that crosses under the steering column.
80 cluster can also be sneaked out from behind the steering wheel with out pulling it, too. Just barely. Perhaps you can ease the cluster forward enough to access the rear without having to pull the wheel.
08-14-13, 07:43 PM
#3537
cut the cold air induction pipes and fitted them up.
I also replaced the headlight lifter rods. wow ridiculously easy, i'm embarrassed i put it off that long.
This CAI mounts a cone filter in front of the radiator, where the AC condenser lives. I had to remove that, which i'm not entirely keen on, but will see if i can find a smaller condenser down the road.
Series 5 VDI intake manifold
I also replaced the headlight lifter rods. wow ridiculously easy, i'm embarrassed i put it off that long.
This CAI mounts a cone filter in front of the radiator, where the AC condenser lives. I had to remove that, which i'm not entirely keen on, but will see if i can find a smaller condenser down the road.
Series 5 VDI intake manifold
what ecu are you running? running 4 injectors?
08-15-13, 12:06 AM
#3539
So I went to pull the speedo gear off the tranny and that thing was STUCK on there. I tried tapping it with a hammer and it moved but the ear w/the hole for the bolt couldn't be coaxed back the other direction once it hit the side of the tranny. I finally got some wimpy channel locks on it and got it to turn. I kept at it with the channel locks until the ear broke off. Ugh.
So I put the channel locks on the threaded part and started yanking. But I couldn't get any leverage with my back on the ground. The threaded housing broke off cleanly. Now I had no more threaded portion to grab onto. That's when I threw in the towel. There was just enough thread to screw on the speedometer cable and call it a night. For grins I took it around the block. Speedo still dead ... big surprise. I'm certain the gear in the tranny is toast.
So, now I have to get a friend to put the car on a lift and use proper tools to pursuade this $!*@&# thing off. It's always the little things that become the biggest PITA.
fm
So I put the channel locks on the threaded part and started yanking. But I couldn't get any leverage with my back on the ground. The threaded housing broke off cleanly. Now I had no more threaded portion to grab onto. That's when I threw in the towel. There was just enough thread to screw on the speedometer cable and call it a night. For grins I took it around the block. Speedo still dead ... big surprise. I'm certain the gear in the tranny is toast.
So, now I have to get a friend to put the car on a lift and use proper tools to pursuade this $!*@&# thing off. It's always the little things that become the biggest PITA.
fm
08-15-13, 08:02 AM
#3542
Gotta stop writing about what I think I am going to do and just relate what I did.
The speed bleeders did not come in. They ordered regular bleeder valves for me. I should have known something was up when the quoted price seemed too low. Bled the rear brakes again, still feel mushy. At my EV conversion conference last week there was a speaker from a company that makes the brushes for electric motors and he indicated that it takes at least 200 hours at 3500 RPM to fully seat the street brushes I have in the car. So I started spinning the motor since I only have about 70 hours of run time on these brushes. Since the rear was already on jack stands I put it in first and let out the clutch. There was a noise from the rear rotors I didn't like and on inspection I realized there is a raised spot on all four rotor faces from rust that is more severe where the pads contacted the rotor face while the car sat for 6 years with the hand brake applied. Since rust is softer than the fresh metal I just sanded the surface while the motor turned the rear axle in first. Now I have a nice clean smooth surface and no odd sounds. Would have been easier to just get new rotors or have these turned. It cost me a quarter for the piece of sandpaper but about an hour of time so not as much done as I had wished.
If wishes were fishes we would all be hip deep in fish.
The speed bleeders did not come in. They ordered regular bleeder valves for me. I should have known something was up when the quoted price seemed too low. Bled the rear brakes again, still feel mushy. At my EV conversion conference last week there was a speaker from a company that makes the brushes for electric motors and he indicated that it takes at least 200 hours at 3500 RPM to fully seat the street brushes I have in the car. So I started spinning the motor since I only have about 70 hours of run time on these brushes. Since the rear was already on jack stands I put it in first and let out the clutch. There was a noise from the rear rotors I didn't like and on inspection I realized there is a raised spot on all four rotor faces from rust that is more severe where the pads contacted the rotor face while the car sat for 6 years with the hand brake applied. Since rust is softer than the fresh metal I just sanded the surface while the motor turned the rear axle in first. Now I have a nice clean smooth surface and no odd sounds. Would have been easier to just get new rotors or have these turned. It cost me a quarter for the piece of sandpaper but about an hour of time so not as much done as I had wished.
If wishes were fishes we would all be hip deep in fish.
08-15-13, 08:48 AM
#3543
Mojo Racing
Well the previous owner of this car was apparently in such a rush to get this car on the road that took every shortcut possible known to man. Here is one example, when I saw a puddle of antifreeze on the ground, I figured what the heck, a little RTV, some new o-rings and done....NOPE, this fool had caked up a bunch of RTV and stuck a quarter to each port...this is just one of the many "surprises" I've found in this car so far
Oh yea, and no gasket either
Oh yea, and no gasket either
08-15-13, 08:51 AM
#3544
Ready or not...
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Taos, NM
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You're only bleeding the rear brakes? From what I understand you must do the full proper sequence. For mine, it's Master cylinder, then single rear, passenger front, driver's front...
Last edited by Ms. DIY; 08-15-13 at 08:59 AM.
08-15-13, 11:02 AM
#3545
Well the previous owner of this car was apparently in such a rush to get this car on the road that took every shortcut possible known to man. Here is one example, when I saw a puddle of antifreeze on the ground, I figured what the heck, a little RTV, some new o-rings and done....NOPE, this fool had caked up a bunch of RTV and stuck a quarter to each port...this is just one of the many "surprises" I've found in this car so far
Oh yea, and no gasket either
Oh yea, and no gasket either
I consider myself really lucky that way...my car has held no such surprises. But I'm still fuming about the $!*@# speedometer gear.
fm
08-15-13, 10:09 PM
#3546
The only thing I did today was put the rear wheels on and take it off the jack stands.
I drove the GSL-SE to work today and she behaved herself nicely.
08-15-13, 11:16 PM
#3549
Got my new right-side LCA today, Got a meet to go to Sat AM, so it porbably won't get swapped for a couple weekends.
I'm suspicious that I need to shim my MOP control rod tighter-- I don't seem to be consuming nearly enough oil; less than half a quart in 1000 miles?
I don't want to lose my new seals - but pre-mix is not an option for a smog car.
Will re-run the MOP test in near future. Was OK last time I did it.
I'm suspicious that I need to shim my MOP control rod tighter-- I don't seem to be consuming nearly enough oil; less than half a quart in 1000 miles?
I don't want to lose my new seals - but pre-mix is not an option for a smog car.
Will re-run the MOP test in near future. Was OK last time I did it.
08-16-13, 01:38 AM
#3550
A friend is going to get the car on a lift this weekend and pull the stuck, damaged speedo gear off the tranny. I'm suspicious that the driver gear may be missing as this tranny was on a track car before. I'm hoping not and that the plastic driven gear is broken. Will see soon enough.
Tonight I installed my the crank angle sensor on my SE 13B after a little e-guidance from j9fd3s. Went right in once I had everything lined up correctly!
fm
Tonight I installed my the crank angle sensor on my SE 13B after a little e-guidance from j9fd3s. Went right in once I had everything lined up correctly!
fm