Photo_Boi

Ok so in my 1984 rx7 I had my fuel door switch break and then right around the same time my wipers stopped working (not sure if they are related at all) because they blew a fuse and every time I replace the fuse as soon as I turn the key to the on position it pops I know the simple things like check my grounds and all of that but I haven’t managed to decipher the wiring Diagrams and I was hoping someone could help

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Try unplugging the wiper motor and replacing the fuse. If it doesn't blow, good chance the wiper motor is bad. You could also check the resistance across the windings of the wiper motor at this point.

Since you're in KC, I can help if needed.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Also - the external (ie AT the wiper motor, under the front wiper panel at the base of the windshield) harness connection often fails due to UV exposure. Mine literally was disintegrating in my hand. If so then wire contacts may be touching at the failed connector.
I bought a new connector from Eastern Beaver, with the tool to swap the wires into the new connection. Otherwise a harness piece off a wreck...

Stu A
80GS
AZ

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

^^^^^^^ I have had this exact same issue!!

GSLSEforme

If after checking all the above with inconclusive results,check the wiper linkage pivots for being bound up. I have found this to be cause of inop wipers,often blowing wiper fuse,occasionally overheating armature in motor damaging it. More of a symptom on cars that have spent majority of their lives outdoors. Often,taking wiper transmission apart and freeing up,cleaning and greasing parts in pivot assembly will restore wiper operation.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Yep, mine was a mess when I pulled the panel one time to do some other stuff. Crumbled when I touched it.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Guessing this is a Time-Bomb in most 1st Gens. New connector was wrapped in weather-proof tape in hopes of some UV protection.
Easy fix actually....

Stu A
80GS
AZ

Photo_Boi

Thank you everyone for the help I plan on looking st it sometime this weekend so I can have wipers again

7aull

iTrader: (2)

OR-
do what I do:
1) never drive in the rain
2) live in AZ


And-
If for some reason you decide to PULL the wiper assy, you need to park the wipers with the blades VERTICAL to allow the whole wiper and transmission assy to come out of the car!

Stu A
80GS
AZ

will7

Thanks.

Photo_Boi

The other day I decided to pull that panel off and look at everything and the harness seems to be in perfect condition besides some over spray from what you all seem to be dealing with but I unplugged it and it still blew the fuse immediately and also I said screw it and put a 30amp fuse in the spot where it should be a 15 and they worked for maybe 5 seconds then with a loud pop the fuse blew and it was a mess so I would assume it’s wiring and I’m wondering where the ground is for this and everything like that so if anyone has answers that would be great

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Sounding like the Wiper transmission rack or motor has seized. You will need to pull the unit, (photos taken of how it assembles will be helpful!!!) and at the very least check and re-lube the pivot points. I would go further and detach the motor and then re-attach to the harness and see if the motor will run correctly w/o the rack attached. If yes, its prob a seized rack, if not, its prob the motor. If either or both are cooked, the Parts Forum and ebay should have these for sale. Any SA/FB wiper assy will work.

Stu A
80GS
AZ

GSLSEforme

1st thing-never put a larger fuse in place of the rated one. The extra time it takes to blow is doing damage to the wiring/components the 15 amp fuse is meant to protect. Is this what you mean by"it was a mess"? Could you elaborate on what you mean by this?

You likely compounded your initial problem with collateral damage at the point where the short is. Yes,short. The fact that short was still in effect when you had wiper motor unplugged and it blew the fuse immediately would appear that the wiper motor is ok and not likely the cause of the short to ground. The wiper motor working briefly when you installed the larger fuse allowed more current to be forced into involved circuit and some of it bled off from source of short to power motor briefly.
Was there smoke involved in the mess you speak of,if so get eyes on the area of car the smoke came from. Be advised,when you find damage to wire harness-or whatever is central to where smoke came from-that may not be the origin of the original short. The original problem may still be elsewhere.
When you put an oversize fuse into a circuit,that allows more current than circuit was designed for a longer amount of time to damage the circuit where the short may be,as in if you saw smoke,means that power/and ground wires in that circuit stand a good chance of being melted together along with other wires that may be bundled along with them in that loom. This is what i mean by collateral damage.

At this point,if you don't have a test light,you need to get one. Begin by grounding the test light to a metal part of the car,turn the key to run position,headlights on and check each fuse(all) in fusebox and note which others if any may be blown along with the wiper fuse. A close look at the side of fuse that faces you will show a little"window" where you can touch each side of fuse terminal to see if lamp in test tight illuminates,if it does,fuse and circuit it protects is good and not source of problem(s). Record and report back here any other fuses that are blown,resist the temptation to put a new fuse,definitely not a larger amp fuse in that receptacle. Replacing that fuse will only cause it to blow and you gain no diagnostic information from it.

if there was smoke,you need to disassemble car enough to get damaged part/harness out to where you can work with it. While i'm thinking about it,i recall you saying the fuel door switch being broken-at @same time wiper fuse blew,this could be more than a coincidence and might be original source of short. I'm not at home to look at electrical diagrams in FSM,i suggest you study the circuit that powers the fuel door switch and see if it's fed from the same fuse the wiper circuit gets its power,i suspect that it may.
If the fuel door switch is not physically broken,it may not be"bad". Something in fuel door circuit could be the original culprit...shorted actuator solenoid,pinched wire between switch and solenoid. Next step would be to disconnect fuel door switch from harness.

Before you do this,you need to make a"tool" to aid you in diagnosing/finding short(s).
You will need a couple of jumper wires with alligator clips on each end,you can buy them at a parts store or you can make your own. Next,while at parts store get some(3 or 4) 3/16" wide male spade terminals,these can be inserted in place of wiper fuse in fusebox. If you can't find 3/16" terminals,use 1/4" terminals and grind off extra width til it will fit into fuse slot without causing any damage. You can use the metal blade on the fuse as a template for grinding male terminal to right width.
Use a razor blade and cut off plastic insulating sleeve,or grind off sleeve with bench grinder,on crimp end of terminal and attach one end of your jumper wires to each of the terminals and other end of jumper wires-one to ground wire of test light,the other to metal tip probe of test light.

Turn key on,test light will illuminate- because of short in circuit,that completes circuit to ground and lights the lamp,it will stay illuminated til you find source of short and eliminate it. This is the safe way to fault trace/find/fix the original problem and further problem(s) that may have been caused by oversize fuse being installed in wiper slot in fusebox. Also saves blowing fuses repetitively unnecessarily.

Next while key on,test light lit,disconnect fuel door switch from harness. Light still lit? May /may not be source of short,it can be tested later with a multimeter(you'll need one of these to find/fix shorts) If light went out when you disconnected switch then either it is shorted or circuit it controls has a short in it,pinched/chafed wire,defective actuator solenoid.
Next remove interior trim in left rear of car to access connector to fuel door release actuator and disconnnect it. If the test light went out when you disconnected fuel door switch,reconnect switch. If test light still off,reconnect actuator, if test light is now on,possible actuator is shorted.If test light stayed on when switch was reconnected but actuator was disconnected,the connecting harness between switch and actuator has a fault to ground At this point you will need a multimeter to ohm the switch and actuator to determine if either is internally shorted and to fault trace that circuit.

Finding shorts is a methodical process,if looking for a quick fix,not likely to find it here. Original problem may now be complicated by possible heat damage from placing larger amp fuse in circuit.

I've tried to be clear,if something not understood, post back with questions and i do my best to explain.By the time you have done what is suggested here,you will have taken necessary steps to finding your problem(s). Post back results to suggested tests,that will allow further direction to hone in on cause. Others reading your thread will benefit from what you learn.

Photo_Boi

Well I feel really stupid if you go aver to my post about my headlights not working you will see that I had a wrong plug plugged in and that was what was wrong with my windshield wipers too

GSLSEforme

Good you got it figured out,very fortunate no damage occurred to wiring,components.

Don’t feel bad,others have done same.You learned from it.

I used to repair theft damage to these cars when new.
I was amazed at how far the ins company would go to fix the cars. Some of the jobs had to be very close to being totaled,many were totaled.
In putting a stripped out car back together,often the complete wire harnessi in car had to be replaced as things were just ripped out or harness cut in places.
I did what op did,more than once. 1st time wasted a lot of time pulling things back apart before figuring it out,subsequently learned to turn everything on in car to be certain everything worked before fully reassembling vehicle,lol.