DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

It would have been a lot more accurate reproduction of the Hot Wheels car, if they had actually started with a 78-80 'S1' car... that being what the toy car was modelled from. The toy clearly has S1 bumpers.

It's also why their front air dam didn't fit - - they had a S1 air dam and were trying to fit it to an S2 body. The lips they were trimming off were designed to attach the dam to the bottom of an S1 bumper. That also being whey there were no "provisions for attaching it to the fenders." There weren't supposed to be - - the bumper and air dam were designed to move independently of the fenders.

They'd best have plans to seriously beef up the stock-looking suspension on that car to limit the wheel travel, or all that pretty plastic is going away the first time they hit a moderate bump. Which you'd think they'd want to have done before trying to do all that precise fitment work for aligning the flares.

It'll be interesting to see it at JCCS, but from an engineering standpoint, they seem a lot more concerned about "the biggest" this and "the widest" that, instead of optimizing performance.

Redliner223

iTrader: (6)

Well the car they decided to use was a 12a turbo imported from Japan.
I know they should have used the sa body styling but maybe he's got somehting up his sleeves.
What I'm worried about in his build is brakes, it looks like he's using stock brakes for now and I'm not sure how well they're going to shop the car.
It's only part 2 for now lets see what comes in the future.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Brakes, wheel bearings, axles... think of the angular load those fat meats will be putting on the stock front spindles and bearings. They've added like six inches of right-angle leverage to the bearing load.

To say nothing of how a stock recirc-ball steering system is going to deal with trying to turn them.

Can you imagine the feedback a driver's gonna get from hitting the rattlestrip with the edge of a tire that's that much further out from the ball joints than stock?

Nothing time, money, and changes can't fix... but generally you want the mechanicals sorted out before you start the beautification.

Redliner223

iTrader: (6)

So apparently the rx7 that is currently under construction for that wide body build is owned by a customer of the shop and I'm guessing that it was his idea to do a hotwheels tribute car.
The s1 wide body was scored off of Yahoo Japan Auctions for apparently an unbeatable price.

Here is part one: New car project: SA22C RX-7 | JDM Legends

Sgt.Stinkfist

iTrader: (6)

continued more work on the "modular fuel tank" assembly. finished the "sub" feed line assembly and mounted a jegs re-buildable fuel filter. Next step is to bite the bullet and drop the old tank, bend and flare a whole new single full chassis piece of 5/16" hardline, re-locate, re-wire, and remount fuel pump, and re-install everything. The true test will be that the car im doing this to, will be my ride out to my shop....and my ride back

Jhereg

iTrader: (27)

Gave up on my dreams of the widebody... posted the 81 widebody that still is sitting in NY up for sale, and put the front end back on my 85. Ordered up a weber rebuild kit.

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

Better running down the road rather than a pretty thing that doesn't move

rwatson5651

iTrader: (5)

Cause I thought I was about to read a long post about how you wouldnt be on the forum for a while cause you were starting chemo!!!

Was pleased to realize that it was just rust!!!!

nitrofish88

iTrader: (1)

I stayed home from work and ordered parts for her. Atkins rebuild kit, and a set of Rotary Aviation 2mm classics apex seals... =) ACT Clutch comes next.

Kentetsu

Radiation treatments ended yesterday, so to celibrate I installed a working starter in my "spare" GSL. She now starts, runs, and moves under her own power. However, vacuum leaks and all that emissions crap just has to go. I can't stand working on such a "cluttered" engine bay.



.

BrGreenSA

iTrader: (1)

Disconnected the door buzzer, was annoying the hell out of me when I was diagnosing things with my key in the ignition, and adjusted my idle because the car was stalling when the ac pump would click on, however i think the pump itself might be going out as its very noisy when its engaged. Also tried putting the plastic air conditioning duct that goes under the steering column back in, but I can't get the damned thing to stay in. Anyone have any tricks? lol

AXA

iTrader: (2)

Magnacore 10mm plug wires
NGK Iridium plugs
Air filter K & N drop in Box
Racing Beat Street Port exhaust system
Oil castrol GXT 20-50 and Mazda OEM oil filter
Water weater Red Line & New cooland
new air & fanclucth Belt
new alternator Belt

The car feel much better now...

Need to do a fuel filter and motor mounts next..

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

My stock fuel pump has been louder than my idling engine for more than a dozen years. Still running strong and passing volume/pressure tests. The reciprocating-plunger design of the pump makes it prone to noise.

I've listened to mine for so long that I literally can tell when the fuel bowls are full before a startup, from the change in the pump sound.

BrGreenSA

iTrader: (1)

Bad choice of words on my part, I meant my ac compressor :p

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

That's a bit different, yah. Failure of reading acuity on my part.

My AC compressor is absolutely silent. It's also in a box on the shelf, at the moment.

euler

I was able to reduce this...









Down to this.



All that mess was running next to the engine with stray connectors stuffed all over the place, turned out only two of all the wires went to anything. More wiring work today.

euler

I cleaned the engine bay because there was a pretty thick amount of grime all over everything. I got the driveshaft and transmission pulled today also. The shifter return spring is broke so I wanted to go ahead and replace that and get the driveshaft balanced.

Red95FD

iTrader: (3)

Just realized my moonroof crank is broken or should I say I just broke it. Who knows, doesn't matter, I love the MR. Thought about trying to repair, order a new part instead.

Also had a few dull spots on the paint. Used some Meguires Show car glaze #7 and it worked great.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i would suggest replacing the rotary **** crank unit. new ones are pricey but may still be available. i would personally buy a known good unit.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i almost dug mine up, but then i remembered mike #2 still has my battery!

BrGreenSA

iTrader: (1)

Dropped my iPhone while taking a picture of my car, shattered the glass on the front. Don't exactly have the money to get it fixed or get a new phone. Meh.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

lol, you've got me beat!

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

Did some fiberglass work on the widebody yesterday

Starfox07

Ordered a Mallory 4309 FPR, fuel pressure gauge, and a Dellorto 48 DHLA.

euler

Cleaned the the trans up good and started messing with replacing the broken shifter spring. The bushings seem to be missing so a new spring/bushings should make it feel much better.