What did you do to your FB today?
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Maxwedge (05-06-24)
#8403
seniorchief
Is that an old strut brace painted gold or the new ones Racing Beat are selling come in gold? It can be tricky when installing them, was this just a "fit-check" and you will be taking it back off until your done with everything else? I have had one of the old Racing Beat strut braces on my car for close to thirty years and have taken it off a handful of times. When you go to install the hood latch and strut brace remove the four bolts for the latch and shock tower bolts, start the four latch bolts a handful of turns leaving some slack, Then you should be able to hand thread the strut tower screws in individualy working the brace around you should be able to get all four bolts on each side started. Run them all the way down by hand, but do not tighten them, then adjust and tighnten the latch bolts followed by the tower bolts. Now this works with the old strut brace but if Racing Beat brought it back it should be close to the original design. Your picture reminded me of the first time I took mine off, when I went to install it I was unable to get one bolt to line up, once I backed everything back off and got all eight strut bolts started I was able to complete the installation. Hope this helps! One "oh by the way" I just thought of is you can also loosen the nuts on the aluminum mounting fixtures for some "additional" alighnment help when installing the brace too.
Last edited by Seniorchief; 04-28-24 at 06:07 PM. Reason: forgot something
#8404
Replaced the original ignition coils
Replaced the spark plug wires with Magnacor 10mm
Replaced the Alternator & Air Pump belts
Installed the freshly rebuilt alternator (was still putting out 49 amps after 42 years, now puts out 65 amps and looks nice and new)
Replaced the spark plug wires with Magnacor 10mm
Replaced the Alternator & Air Pump belts
Installed the freshly rebuilt alternator (was still putting out 49 amps after 42 years, now puts out 65 amps and looks nice and new)
#8405
Always entertaining
iTrader: (2)
Edit: It looks like you have the same amount of 2-4 threads exposed on the nuts that are holding the castings down. I'm not sure how the stack is doing that. The nuts installed normally with the casting over it, the stud is long enough, add the casting under the nut and now it's 3-4 threads too short? I'm loosing length somewhere... another reason to do this on the ground with the struts loaded.
fyi, this was the misalignment of the drivers side with the passenger and firewall finger tight . Going to play a few games before drilling out the holes.
Last edited by swbtm; 04-29-24 at 04:07 PM.
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Seniorchief (04-29-24)
#8406
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Put the car on the ground before you start drilling out holes and making things worse. This brace was purchased over 25 years ago and was an easy fit on both an 80LS and my current 84SE. If your new production version is built to the same dimensions, your issue is with the frame being tweaked from being up on Jack stands...
#8407
Senior Newbie Member
Put the car on the ground before you start drilling out holes and making things worse. This brace was purchased over 25 years ago and was an easy fit on both an 80LS and my current 84SE. If your new production version is built to the same dimensions, your issue is with the frame being tweaked from being up on Jack stands...
#8408
Always entertaining
iTrader: (2)
Will definitely drop the car on the tires and recheck everything. That reminded me of this though…
https://flyinmiata.com/products/strong-arms
frog arms/strong arms. I wonder if those could be adapted to work with our car. I have my fenders off now, can look into building my own out of square stock if similar mounting points exist.
https://flyinmiata.com/products/strong-arms
frog arms/strong arms. I wonder if those could be adapted to work with our car. I have my fenders off now, can look into building my own out of square stock if similar mounting points exist.
#8409
I've been going through and cleaning off the corrosion on all the body electrical grounds. The Ei ground under the radio, Er ground on the hatch latch bolt, Ef grounds next to the passenger side headlight, and the midground on driver side strut tower.
I had some trouble finding the last Ef ground located behind the dash, I'm pretty sure it's this stud/nut behind the instrument cluster since there's a ring terminal on it, just wanted to confirm if anyone else has worked on that wiring before that this is it.
I had some trouble finding the last Ef ground located behind the dash, I'm pretty sure it's this stud/nut behind the instrument cluster since there's a ring terminal on it, just wanted to confirm if anyone else has worked on that wiring before that this is it.
Last edited by YellowFB; 05-03-24 at 08:42 PM.
#8410
Junior Member
sirvelonodnarb What aero is that you're running? Do you have a good pic of the front piece? Just exploring options. Thanks.
Last edited by Silver Bullet 79; 05-04-24 at 05:59 PM.
#8411
Junior Member
Did this last week, but most recently upgraded my intake to a CAI, and painted the hat to homage the original filter.
Last edited by Silver Bullet 79; 05-04-24 at 05:35 PM.
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Frankenrex (05-07-24),
j_tso (05-05-24)
#8412
After a too-long Wisconsin winter I was finally able to get my car out of Hibernation. Had some time to do a few updates - added a momo wheel and a jdm 5 speed rx8 shift ****.
The following 3 users liked this post by Sherwoodrx7:
#8413
Rotary Enthusiast
Did a bunch of stuff to the rear axle as noted in another thread, and it totally fixed the diff chatter (changed from Valvoline VV820 70W90 + extra CRC friction modifier to Lucas 80W90 + extra 4 Oz friction modifier from Mazdatrix).
And also just some little things. I "adjusted" the driver's side window frame inward by about 1/8". Despite the perfectly fine door seal weather stripping, I had some wind noise at highway speed. I noticed that if I pulled the window frame tighter inward the noise stopped. I also compared the gap between the window frame and the body on the driver's side to the same on the quiet passenger side, finding it to be bigger on the driver side.
I also checked the door strike adjustment and that was fine. So I lowered the window, sat in the driver's seat with the door open, and pulled the frame inward firmly and progressively with two hands either side of the 90° and then the ~30° joint the same way. After a couple of pulls, the gaps match side to side and the wind noise is gone.
I also lubed the hinges and strike mechanism with WD40 Specialist Dry Lube (Teflon), no more creaks opening/closing.
And also just some little things. I "adjusted" the driver's side window frame inward by about 1/8". Despite the perfectly fine door seal weather stripping, I had some wind noise at highway speed. I noticed that if I pulled the window frame tighter inward the noise stopped. I also compared the gap between the window frame and the body on the driver's side to the same on the quiet passenger side, finding it to be bigger on the driver side.
I also checked the door strike adjustment and that was fine. So I lowered the window, sat in the driver's seat with the door open, and pulled the frame inward firmly and progressively with two hands either side of the 90° and then the ~30° joint the same way. After a couple of pulls, the gaps match side to side and the wind noise is gone.
I also lubed the hinges and strike mechanism with WD40 Specialist Dry Lube (Teflon), no more creaks opening/closing.
The following 3 users liked this post by Toruki:
#8414
Rotary Enthusiast
Watched the odometer rollover to 40K!
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VA RX7 (05-18-24)
#8415
j tso - Boy, those pics bring back last summer's work getting wiper back in operation!! Replacing the circuit's connectors was easy enough (for a friend who knew what was needed, that is). But things had deteriorated so far that the motor's worm gear got badly stripped when wiper got activated all by itself one hot day, producing a horrendous high-pitched noise. Local young fellow diagnosed the worm gear as reason for motor's failure and got it back to normal.
Now am hunting for a flasher relay...
Now am hunting for a flasher relay...
Last edited by T Heller; 05-13-24 at 06:25 PM.
#8417
Senior Member
#8418
Senior Member
My radiator finally arrived so I got to test fit it. 3 bolts lined up and the 4th is almost there but I think it's easier for me to widen the hole on the radiator mount a little to make it fit. I'll give it another test fitting before I do that.
The shroud doesn't fit on the bottom right side so I was thinking of cutting it to make it fit (radiator is shorter than oem). However, being that the fan is really close, do I really need to install the shroud?
The shroud doesn't fit on the bottom right side so I was thinking of cutting it to make it fit (radiator is shorter than oem). However, being that the fan is really close, do I really need to install the shroud?
Last edited by 1BADRX7; 05-14-24 at 07:20 AM.
#8419
Rotary Enthusiast
Yes, you absolutely do need the shroud!
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Maxwedge (05-14-24)
#8420
#8421
My radiator finally arrived so I got to test fit it. 3 bolts lined up and the 4th is almost there but I think it's easier for me to widen the hole on the radiator mount a little to make it fit. I'll give it another test fitting before I do that.
The shroud doesn't fit on the bottom right side so I was thinking of cutting it to make it fit (radiator is shorter than oem). However, being that the fan is really close, do I really need to install the shroud?
The shroud doesn't fit on the bottom right side so I was thinking of cutting it to make it fit (radiator is shorter than oem). However, being that the fan is really close, do I really need to install the shroud?
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speedracer_not (05-15-24)
#8423
Senior Member
My radiator finally arrived so I got to test fit it. 3 bolts lined up and the 4th is almost there but I think it's easier for me to widen the hole on the radiator mount a little to make it fit. I'll give it another test fitting before I do that.
The shroud doesn't fit on the bottom right side so I was thinking of cutting it to make it fit (radiator is shorter than oem). However, being that the fan is really close, do I really need to install the shroud?
The shroud doesn't fit on the bottom right side so I was thinking of cutting it to make it fit (radiator is shorter than oem). However, being that the fan is really close, do I really need to install the shroud?
That’s the same one I bought for my 82 GSL…..Damn…I miss that car…😭
#8424
Senior Member
Yes, your picture was one that I found when I was first looking for a new rad. Thanks!
It looks really good. Where did you get your outer gaskets from (the one going around the taillight)?
It looks like you have something engraved on the top of the radiator, how did you get that done?
It looks really good. Where did you get your outer gaskets from (the one going around the taillight)?
It looks like you have something engraved on the top of the radiator, how did you get that done?
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lil12abp (05-16-24)
#8425
Senior Member
Yes, your picture was one that I found when I was first looking for a new rad. Thanks!
It looks really good. Where did you get your outer gaskets from (the one going around the taillight)?
It looks like you have something engraved on the top of the radiator, how did you get that done?
It looks really good. Where did you get your outer gaskets from (the one going around the taillight)?
It looks like you have something engraved on the top of the radiator, how did you get that done?
What you see on the radiator is the brand…. That is how it came….