What did you do to your FB today?
03-04-14, 11:21 PM
#4427
This arrived from Japan today:
Goodbye barely-readable digital copies of badly-scanned microfiche parts catalogs! Published in '89. It's in Japanese, but this is not a problem. I can't wait to see the look on the guy's face at the Mazda parts counter when I come walking with this.
fm
Goodbye barely-readable digital copies of badly-scanned microfiche parts catalogs! Published in '89. It's in Japanese, but this is not a problem. I can't wait to see the look on the guy's face at the Mazda parts counter when I come walking with this.
fm
03-05-14, 01:12 AM
#4428
And FM, that parts catalog is super cool looking, like it's been in a plastic bag it's whole life. Who cares that it's all in Japanese, that's a cool piece of rotary history right there, keep it nice!
03-05-14, 04:35 PM
#4431
seattle seven
03-05-14, 05:06 PM
#4432
Did my current interior (all by hand) back around 2001; it still looks pretty darn good, not even much fading & no dirt, but I've been missing my SA highbacks ever since I swapped. My old ones were totally thrashed & falling to bits. I scored a salvageable set about three years back, finally getting around to them.
I may convert my FB buckets to office chairs.
Time will tell.
03-05-14, 07:10 PM
#4433
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Not a happy camper
My 83 GSL decided to strand me today. Took her for a spin to the supermarket and after loading up the hatch with groceries, she decided she didn't want to start 
Tumbling but not firing up. This is just a few days ahead of her scheduled trip to the mechanic to replace plugs and investigate the hard start I started experiencing when she's hot. She starts right up on the first try in the morning but every start after that is difficult. Not smoking or anything like that. Great compression and no loss of coolant (<1500 km on the rebuild).
To make matters worse, I broke off the choke **** trying in vain to get her started
My wife had to swing by and give me a lift home!
Heading back down in a few minutes with my tools to check and see if she's flooded and swap plugs also. Hopefully, it'll be a simple fix.
I'm really tired of the carb and this just motivates me to go EFI on her in the near future.
Tumbling but not firing up. This is just a few days ahead of her scheduled trip to the mechanic to replace plugs and investigate the hard start I started experiencing when she's hot. She starts right up on the first try in the morning but every start after that is difficult. Not smoking or anything like that. Great compression and no loss of coolant (<1500 km on the rebuild).
To make matters worse, I broke off the choke **** trying in vain to get her started
My wife had to swing by and give me a lift home!Heading back down in a few minutes with my tools to check and see if she's flooded and swap plugs also. Hopefully, it'll be a simple fix.
I'm really tired of the carb and this just motivates me to go EFI on her in the near future.
03-06-14, 01:20 AM
#4435
Originally Posted by placd1
My 83 GSL decided to strand me today. Took her for a spin to the supermarket and after loading up the hatch with groceries, she decided she didn't want to start
Tumbling but not firing up. This is just a few days ahead of her scheduled trip to the mechanic to replace plugs and investigate the hard start I started experiencing when she's hot. She starts right up on the first try in the morning but every start after that is difficult. Not smoking or anything like that. Great compression and no loss of coolant (<1500 km on the rebuild).
To make matters worse, I broke off the choke **** trying in vain to get her started My wife had to swing by and give me a lift home!
Heading back down in a few minutes with my tools to check and see if she's flooded and swap plugs also. Hopefully, it'll be a simple fix.
I'm really tired of the carb and this just motivates me to go EFI on her in the near future.
Tumbling but not firing up. This is just a few days ahead of her scheduled trip to the mechanic to replace plugs and investigate the hard start I started experiencing when she's hot. She starts right up on the first try in the morning but every start after that is difficult. Not smoking or anything like that. Great compression and no loss of coolant (<1500 km on the rebuild).
To make matters worse, I broke off the choke **** trying in vain to get her started
My wife had to swing by and give me a lift home!Heading back down in a few minutes with my tools to check and see if she's flooded and swap plugs also. Hopefully, it'll be a simple fix.
I'm really tired of the carb and this just motivates me to go EFI on her in the near future.
Oh, don't mind me. I just figured out a way to avoid having to go EFI on a 6 port in the REPU this evening. I have three carb choices now: Edelbrock, weber 45 DCOE or the trusty hogged out Nikki. I know which I'm leaning toward.
Oh and good luck on your 12A getting up and running again.
03-06-14, 10:03 AM
#4436
On a stock setup, hot start problems usually are the result of a clogged vapor canister, or a vent system fault like a stuck vent valve. Causes the float bowls to overflow, resulting in a flood condition.
I spent the couple free hours I had last night hooking my faulty ICU unit up on the workbench with a 12v supply, some lights, and my spare dizzy, doing some signals chasing with the o-scope. Mainly confirming that my schematic & the unit agree on how it should work.
I have a schematic to get together for Jeff, too.
I spent the couple free hours I had last night hooking my faulty ICU unit up on the workbench with a 12v supply, some lights, and my spare dizzy, doing some signals chasing with the o-scope. Mainly confirming that my schematic & the unit agree on how it should work.
I have a schematic to get together for Jeff, too.
03-06-14, 11:11 AM
#4437
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She started!
Popped back down to the supermarket parking lot and pulled and inspected the plugs. They were immaculate (which is a bit of a surprise since I'm using premix) so I didn't bother swapping in new ones.
Gave her a tumble just to see what would happen and she fired right up
. Drove her home and did some serious investigation. Let me lay out the details Jeff20B :
1) the carb is a hogged out Nikki (22mm venturis ,confirmed with the builder)
2) engine is a 4 port old school 13b with a half bridge
3) using an MSD 6A ignition box for direct fire
One thing I noticed is that the J109 ignitor in the dizzy is hot as hell when in use and takes forever to cool down when the car is switched off. When I say "HOT" I mean you can actually burn your fingertip touching it!
I know that isn't normal.
Any suggestions? I'm going to run her over to my mechanic buddy for him to look over the carb again and rule out the possibility of a plugged vent system like DD mentioned.
Gave her a tumble just to see what would happen and she fired right up
. Drove her home and did some serious investigation. Let me lay out the details Jeff20B :1) the carb is a hogged out Nikki (22mm venturis ,confirmed with the builder)
2) engine is a 4 port old school 13b with a half bridge
3) using an MSD 6A ignition box for direct fire
One thing I noticed is that the J109 ignitor in the dizzy is hot as hell when in use and takes forever to cool down when the car is switched off. When I say "HOT" I mean you can actually burn your fingertip touching it!
I know that isn't normal.Any suggestions? I'm going to run her over to my mechanic buddy for him to look over the carb again and rule out the possibility of a plugged vent system like DD mentioned.
03-06-14, 12:16 PM
#4438
Look at the little windows on the carb. Where are both fuel levels at? Test the float bowl vent solenoid with key on, disconnect it and listen for the click. If it clicks, that means it works and the fuel level in the bowls should be right at the middle of the windows. Don't leave it disconnected for long as it will overfill the bowls any time the fuel pump is on.
The hot J-109 might be a problem. Or it could be a hot coil that starts to arc internally and won't run any time it's hot. The problem goes away when the coil cools down. Same could be said for the ignitor. But then again the ignitor is on trailing only, right? MSD on leading? Trailing doesn't affect whether a hot start issue is occouring because the engine will happily start and run on leading only. Could be an MSD problem.
Sounds like you or your guy have some stuff to diagnose over there. Sounds like fun.
Oha nd half bridge ports are harder to start than a regualr side port whether stock or up to streetport size. The bridge hurts low RPM which is where the start spins it at. Hmm, could be a lazy slow starter that gets slower as it warms up. Pay attention to how it sounds when cold vs how fast it sounds when warm while the no start issue is happening.
The hot J-109 might be a problem. Or it could be a hot coil that starts to arc internally and won't run any time it's hot. The problem goes away when the coil cools down. Same could be said for the ignitor. But then again the ignitor is on trailing only, right? MSD on leading? Trailing doesn't affect whether a hot start issue is occouring because the engine will happily start and run on leading only. Could be an MSD problem.
Sounds like you or your guy have some stuff to diagnose over there. Sounds like fun.
Oha nd half bridge ports are harder to start than a regualr side port whether stock or up to streetport size. The bridge hurts low RPM which is where the start spins it at. Hmm, could be a lazy slow starter that gets slower as it warms up. Pay attention to how it sounds when cold vs how fast it sounds when warm while the no start issue is happening.
03-06-14, 12:32 PM
#4439
Originally Posted by DivinDriver
I have a schematic to get together for Jeff, too.
One has three AA which would normally be 4.5 volts if alkaline, which is more than the 3.3V circuit requires, so I swapped in some rechargeable batteries to bring the voltage down. Something like 3.9, which then slumps down to 3.3 perfectly in use. 
The other circuit has a 6 AA cell pack with two dummy batteries and only 4 cells. Rechargeable again, just for testing. This circuit eats up a lot more power and caused the batteries to slump down to 4.9 or so, which the circuit didn't like. It started resetting itself randomly, then once every few seconds. So I swapped out one of the dummy batteries for one more rechargeable. This brought the voltage up to 6.9 volts. Too much you'd think, but the circuit handled it fine. Then during use it instantly drops down to 6.4 and continues down through the sweet spot of 5.5. I wasn't able to cause any resets with five rechargeable batteries leaving it on for a solid hour. I would have done this in the beginning but my only concern was how well the circuit would handle this much over-voltage. Seemed to handle it fine.
The batteries are secret of Nimh so they have more amps available than nickle cadmium. A good thing here as the circuit does warm up during use.
If anyone is wondering what I'm talking about, watch this video to get the jist of what I'm doing. His was easier though because it uses 12V. Mine unfortunatly requires 3.3V and 5.5V making things more complicated. But this video will give you the concept in case you ever want to watch TV during a power failure/camping/whatever and don't feel like buying a new digital capable battery powered TV, but are somewhat handy with a soldering iron.
Digital TV Converter Hack - YouTube
03-06-14, 02:07 PM
#4440
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Hey Jeff, fuel is exactly on the half mark of the sight glasses, vent solenoid clicks also. Next up is to see if the coils are heating up excessively (this may be a result of my horizontal mounting of the Blaster 2 coils?!)
Ignitor is indeed for trailing only and the MSD handles the leading. That's the last thing we'll look at. If it is indeed a bad ignition box , then I'll revert to the original ignition setup and see if that makes a difference.
Ignitor is indeed for trailing only and the MSD handles the leading. That's the last thing we'll look at. If it is indeed a bad ignition box , then I'll revert to the original ignition setup and see if that makes a difference.
03-06-14, 09:53 PM
#4443
Took a little bit and had my Dad help bleed the breaks, easiest brake bleed we've ever done, took about 30 min. Now just gotta swap the yoke on the axle, throw in the drive shaft and then we can take her for a test drive to make sure all is right and then it's time for new rear tires, alignment, and shocks, then I need to save a few bucks for shocks. After all that I will start putting back money for all those other upgrades and improvements.
03-07-14, 06:35 PM
#4444
Can I use a Turbo 2 LIM with the RB Dellorto UIM?
I'm on the edge of buying a LIM for my red car, but I'm concerned that the RB UIM won't work with a Tii LIM. And I don't think the factory S5 turbo exhaust manifold leaves enough room for the N/A S5 LIM.
I'm on the edge of buying a LIM for my red car, but I'm concerned that the RB UIM won't work with a Tii LIM. And I don't think the factory S5 turbo exhaust manifold leaves enough room for the N/A S5 LIM.
03-08-14, 02:36 PM
#4447
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Anyone know what the orange switch in the center console is supposed to do on GSL's?
I remember at one point a while back mine used to raise my antenna but I found that other wires do that so I have no clue what this it's supposed to do.
I remember at one point a while back mine used to raise my antenna but I found that other wires do that so I have no clue what this it's supposed to do.
03-08-14, 03:58 PM
#4448
seattle seven
Ejector seat! don't touch that one!