What did you do to your FB today?
#4352
Out In the Barn
iTrader: (9)
I really like the look of that clear pickup cover, ioTus. Hopefully the lack of shielding over the top doesn't cause you any RFI grief.
I'm still plugging away at reverse engineering the 80 ignition. I'm about 80% of the way through creating the schematic for the ignition control unit, & it's starting to make sense how it works. Also correcting the factory wiring diagram, which is quite famously wrong (or at least incomplete) in the connections surrounding the "Ignitor" legend on diagram B.
One of the complicating factors; most of the discrete transistors & diodes in common use in 1980 are no longer made, and trying to find data sheets for them is a pain even when the markings are readable. The web is near-useless where electronic component data from the age before the internet existed is concerned.
I used to have electronic component reference books for this period; tossed them a dozen or more years ago, once they became obsolete and I got out of the electronics hobby.
At least resistor color codes haven't changed.
I'm still plugging away at reverse engineering the 80 ignition. I'm about 80% of the way through creating the schematic for the ignition control unit, & it's starting to make sense how it works. Also correcting the factory wiring diagram, which is quite famously wrong (or at least incomplete) in the connections surrounding the "Ignitor" legend on diagram B.
One of the complicating factors; most of the discrete transistors & diodes in common use in 1980 are no longer made, and trying to find data sheets for them is a pain even when the markings are readable. The web is near-useless where electronic component data from the age before the internet existed is concerned.
I used to have electronic component reference books for this period; tossed them a dozen or more years ago, once they became obsolete and I got out of the electronics hobby.
At least resistor color codes haven't changed.
#4353
1st-Class Engine Janitor
iTrader: (15)
2SA965 PNP transistor
2SC711A NPN transistor
2SC620 NPN transistor
Also, some odd plastic-encapsulated diodes marked only RA-1 and RA-2
Finally two large (3/4" x 3/8") 4-lead radial-packaged parts marked S51A05 and S51A12, made by OKI back before Rohm bought them, that I think may be reed relays.
There are a couple glass-capsule diodes that don't seem to have series marks, but look to be about the same size as the old 1N914 diodes you saw everywhere back then.
I'll know more once I have the schematic sussed out, & do some nodal analysis, as a lot can be surmised looking at currents and voltages as defined by the resistors used to bias and limit the transistor circuits.
I was a crypto tech and instructor out at 29 Palms in the early 80's and for many years before that a hobby builder & breadboard expeirmenter. But man, are those memories rusty now!
#4354
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
DivinDriver, I'm looking for a circuit that will convert 12V to a regulated 3V and 5V with a common ground. It is for a TV digital to analog convertor. I need it so when the power goes out, I can still watch TV. Not interested in an AC inverter. The TV is a little black and white Bentley so it has its own batteries (12V worth of D cells, which I can tap into for the circuit).
I'm fine with wiring but not so good with the discrete electronics. But I can solder and follow directions. Built a Megasquirt which worked fine first try. I've been soldering since about '87 for hobby projects etc.
We can take this to PMs if necessary (probably a good idea). Oh and there might be a prize in it for you if you can help me. A little J-105 action maybe.
I'm fine with wiring but not so good with the discrete electronics. But I can solder and follow directions. Built a Megasquirt which worked fine first try. I've been soldering since about '87 for hobby projects etc.
We can take this to PMs if necessary (probably a good idea). Oh and there might be a prize in it for you if you can help me. A little J-105 action maybe.
#4355
1st-Class Engine Janitor
iTrader: (15)
DivinDriver, I'm looking for a circuit that will convert 12V to a regulated 3V and 5V with a common ground. It is for a TV digital to analog convertor. I need it so when the power goes out, I can still watch TV. Not interested in an AC inverter. The TV is a little black and white Bentley so it has its own batteries (12V worth of D cells, which I can tap into for the circuit).
I'm fine with wiring but not so good with the discrete electronics. But I can solder and follow directions. Built a Megasquirt which worked fine first try. I've been soldering since about '87 for hobby projects etc.
We can take this to PMs if necessary (probably a good idea). Oh and there might be a prize in it for you if you can help me. A little J-105 action maybe.
I'm fine with wiring but not so good with the discrete electronics. But I can solder and follow directions. Built a Megasquirt which worked fine first try. I've been soldering since about '87 for hobby projects etc.
We can take this to PMs if necessary (probably a good idea). Oh and there might be a prize in it for you if you can help me. A little J-105 action maybe.
If it's less than a couple amps each, a couple LDO chips, a heat sink. and a handful of resistors & caps will do the job.
Something like this, http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm350-n.pdf
#4357
Full Member
iTrader: (-1)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: al
Posts: 155
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what i did with my fb today. well yesterday i cut it in to 10 pices after stripping it to a shell today it wentto scrap whats a shell worth you ask. 82$ with out doors glass eng trans and a lot of plastic and a bunch a good parts still left any takers? what i did with my sai fired it up the other day firt time in mounths springs here. she will never go to a scrap yard enless totaled and than shed probly sit in my yard mangled any way
#4358
Out In the Barn
iTrader: (9)
The transistors are 2SA and 2SC series like the old Toshiba silicon, but the actual series numbers are not in some of the few contemporary references Ive dug up so far:
2SA965 PNP transistor
2SC711A NPN transistor
2SC620 NPN transistor
Also, some odd plastic-encapsulated diodes marked only RA-1 and RA-2
Finally two large (3/4" x 3/8") 4-lead radial-packaged parts marked S51A05 and S51A12, made by OKI back before Rohm bought them, that I think may be reed relays.
There are a couple glass-capsule diodes that don't seem to have series marks, but look to be about the same size as the old 1N914 diodes you saw everywhere back then.
I'll know more once I have the schematic sussed out, & do some nodal analysis, as a lot can be surmised looking at currents and voltages as defined by the resistors used to bias and limit the transistor circuits.
I was a crypto tech and instructor out at 29 Palms in the early 80's and for many years before that a hobby builder & breadboard expeirmenter. But man, are those memories rusty now!
2SA965 PNP transistor
2SC711A NPN transistor
2SC620 NPN transistor
Also, some odd plastic-encapsulated diodes marked only RA-1 and RA-2
Finally two large (3/4" x 3/8") 4-lead radial-packaged parts marked S51A05 and S51A12, made by OKI back before Rohm bought them, that I think may be reed relays.
There are a couple glass-capsule diodes that don't seem to have series marks, but look to be about the same size as the old 1N914 diodes you saw everywhere back then.
I'll know more once I have the schematic sussed out, & do some nodal analysis, as a lot can be surmised looking at currents and voltages as defined by the resistors used to bias and limit the transistor circuits.
I was a crypto tech and instructor out at 29 Palms in the early 80's and for many years before that a hobby builder & breadboard expeirmenter. But man, are those memories rusty now!
2SA965 NTE Equivalent NTE383 T-PNP SI AF DRIVER... - Wholesale Electronics
http://www.weisd.com/store2/NTE383.pdf
2SC711A NPN transistor
2SC711A(BCE) NTE Equivalent NTE85 T-NPN SI GENERAL PURP ... - Wholesale Electronics
http://www.weisd.com/store2/NTE85.pdf
2SC620 NPN transistor
2SC620-E NTE Equvilent NTE85 T-NPN SI GENERAL PURP AMP
http://www.weisd.com/store2/NTE85.pdf
2SC620 NTE Equivalent NTE85 T-NPN SI GENERAL PURP ... - Wholesale Electronics
#4359
Full Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Portales, NM
Posts: 126
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Bought it a friend while I wait for my wheels to come in. Tires, valve stems, and lug adapters are already here.
Attachment 524920
Ran into some issues with my wheels. Business one was back ordered, but they refunded me. Business two was back ordered, but they refunded me. Business three gave me an answer that they were back ordered before I ordered. Went back to business one and ordered a different style of wheel, with free shipping and 15% discount for my "troubles" because of back ordered wheels. Would gladly recommend the company, but unsure of rules on posting companies. Will answer PMs for anyone interested. Here is the wheels I got for a whopping $358 for the whole set. 15x8 4x114.3 +20 offset.
Will be putting these Kumho Ecsta AST 205/50/15 that I got for $312 shipped.
Attachment 524920
Ran into some issues with my wheels. Business one was back ordered, but they refunded me. Business two was back ordered, but they refunded me. Business three gave me an answer that they were back ordered before I ordered. Went back to business one and ordered a different style of wheel, with free shipping and 15% discount for my "troubles" because of back ordered wheels. Would gladly recommend the company, but unsure of rules on posting companies. Will answer PMs for anyone interested. Here is the wheels I got for a whopping $358 for the whole set. 15x8 4x114.3 +20 offset.
Will be putting these Kumho Ecsta AST 205/50/15 that I got for $312 shipped.
#4361
1st-Class Engine Janitor
iTrader: (15)
2SA965 PNP transistor
2SA965 NTE Equivalent NTE383 T-PNP SI AF DRIVER... - Wholesale Electronics
http://www.weisd.com/store2/NTE383.pdf
2SC711A NPN transistor
2SC711A(BCE) NTE Equivalent NTE85 T-NPN SI GENERAL PURP ... - Wholesale Electronics
http://www.weisd.com/store2/NTE85.pdf
2SC620 NPN transistor
2SC620-E NTE Equvilent NTE85 T-NPN SI GENERAL PURP AMP
http://www.weisd.com/store2/NTE85.pdf
2SC620 NTE Equivalent NTE85 T-NPN SI GENERAL PURP ... - Wholesale Electronics
2SA965 NTE Equivalent NTE383 T-PNP SI AF DRIVER... - Wholesale Electronics
http://www.weisd.com/store2/NTE383.pdf
2SC711A NPN transistor
2SC711A(BCE) NTE Equivalent NTE85 T-NPN SI GENERAL PURP ... - Wholesale Electronics
http://www.weisd.com/store2/NTE85.pdf
2SC620 NPN transistor
2SC620-E NTE Equvilent NTE85 T-NPN SI GENERAL PURP AMP
http://www.weisd.com/store2/NTE85.pdf
2SC620 NTE Equivalent NTE85 T-NPN SI GENERAL PURP ... - Wholesale Electronics
Virtually certain the 'big' components are reed relays; each has a small-signal diode across pins 1 and 4 which would be normal for CEMF damping of a relay coil, and the other two pins look to carry signal through under certain conditions dictated by connections to the ECU. Still not quite done plotting the circuit (time constraints , takes concentration) but it's coming along. Most of the transistors look to be working in switching, rather than amplifying, mode.
Once I know what it does, I'll be looking for ways to improve it (better isolation, more current carrying capacity) with more modern components.
Nothing like a puzzle.
#4363
1st-Class Engine Janitor
iTrader: (15)
Don't feel bad, man; discrete analog electronics is darn near a dying art.
Everybody uses ASICs, micro-controllers, and software today to do what used to be built up from off-the-shelf parts.
I had to cope with the previous transition, too; when I first started messing with electronics as a hobby, tubes were still a common, though fading, tech.
It's like carbs vs fuel-injection. The older technology has become a specialty & a niche.
Everybody uses ASICs, micro-controllers, and software today to do what used to be built up from off-the-shelf parts.
I had to cope with the previous transition, too; when I first started messing with electronics as a hobby, tubes were still a common, though fading, tech.
It's like carbs vs fuel-injection. The older technology has become a specialty & a niche.
#4367
Rotary Onigiri
iTrader: (9)
Started her up and took her to her first auto-x event of the year. Changes since last auto-x event:
- 14x7 aluminum alloys (weigh about 2.5 lbs more each than my 16x7 TE-37s.
- new Nitto NT01 for said alloys
- Weber 45 DCOE side-draft carb
Had a brain fart and forgot to shift from first to 2nd until 1/3 of the way through the course on my first run, but still ran a 53.211. My best run (also my last run) was a 51.272. The fastest cars (maybe 30 or so) were doing 43-46 sec runs. These were buggies, all-race subies, 510s, Merkurs, Z06s, and a handful of turbo Miatas. Cars in the"reasonably fast" group were in the 47-52 sec range. About half of the rest of the participants were slower than 52. Overall, I'm very pleased...I know with more seat time, the car could do high 40s on this course. On a stock port 12A.
The best part was watching an M3 owner walk up and peer into my engine compartment wondering what magic allowed me to best him. The look on his face was one shock and utter confusion.
On-board vid to come tomorrow. No vid of the M3 owner tho.
fm
- 14x7 aluminum alloys (weigh about 2.5 lbs more each than my 16x7 TE-37s.
- new Nitto NT01 for said alloys
- Weber 45 DCOE side-draft carb
Had a brain fart and forgot to shift from first to 2nd until 1/3 of the way through the course on my first run, but still ran a 53.211. My best run (also my last run) was a 51.272. The fastest cars (maybe 30 or so) were doing 43-46 sec runs. These were buggies, all-race subies, 510s, Merkurs, Z06s, and a handful of turbo Miatas. Cars in the"reasonably fast" group were in the 47-52 sec range. About half of the rest of the participants were slower than 52. Overall, I'm very pleased...I know with more seat time, the car could do high 40s on this course. On a stock port 12A.
The best part was watching an M3 owner walk up and peer into my engine compartment wondering what magic allowed me to best him. The look on his face was one shock and utter confusion.
On-board vid to come tomorrow. No vid of the M3 owner tho.
fm
#4368
'84 5-letter
iTrader: (5)
Sounds fun FM - I'm definitely fixing to get into some auto-x action this year.
Today i built some ignition coil brackets and fitted them up.
The bracket material is too thin and they wobble - absolutely will not suffice. They are also a little higher than I had wanted, and are stretching the wires a bit taught. For a test fit not bad, gives me a good idea, and I have some basic props to take to a fabricator and explain what I need.
Today i built some ignition coil brackets and fitted them up.
The bracket material is too thin and they wobble - absolutely will not suffice. They are also a little higher than I had wanted, and are stretching the wires a bit taught. For a test fit not bad, gives me a good idea, and I have some basic props to take to a fabricator and explain what I need.
#4369
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
ioTus, I like your coil mounting idea. If I swap an S4 NA complete setup into the red car, I'll need to do something similar because it too has power steering. Of course if it went into the REPU, the coil mounting is a piece of cake with plenty of room. Still mulling it over.
Hmm, one option for the red car is to take off the two coils from the trailing ignitor, hook the wires up to the stock Diamond coils and mount the trailing ignitor where it's convenient. Then take off the leading coil from its ignitor, mount the coil to the strut tower (at the 45 degree flat part with two threaded holes where your front most trailing coil is) and put the leading ignitor where its convenient. I'd be left with two stock trailing coils for another project. See, the red car still has a battery up front, so I'm kinda limited in space.
Of course the other option is to do a MegaSquirt. Then we could do whatever ignition we want. But then it's a daily driver and the owner might not want to have to keep a laptop in the car for tuning all the time like he had to with his other MS project, which still doesn't run right.
Hmm, one option for the red car is to take off the two coils from the trailing ignitor, hook the wires up to the stock Diamond coils and mount the trailing ignitor where it's convenient. Then take off the leading coil from its ignitor, mount the coil to the strut tower (at the 45 degree flat part with two threaded holes where your front most trailing coil is) and put the leading ignitor where its convenient. I'd be left with two stock trailing coils for another project. See, the red car still has a battery up front, so I'm kinda limited in space.
Of course the other option is to do a MegaSquirt. Then we could do whatever ignition we want. But then it's a daily driver and the owner might not want to have to keep a laptop in the car for tuning all the time like he had to with his other MS project, which still doesn't run right.
#4373
79 w 13B4port
iTrader: (5)
Finished up restoration on a nice set of SSR this morning, and listed them for sale. A little jealous that they're considerably nicer than my own wheels :/
Attachment 525126
Attachment 525126
#4374
Rotary Onigiri
iTrader: (9)
Jibaro_12A,
Pull your plugs, blow out the gas by cranking it (after removing the coil wire to the dizzy), clean up the plugs, and put them back in. Then turn the key on, pull the choke, stomp 2 times and crank her over.
Mine was cold-blooded, even in the warm CA climate and I had to set the choke in order for her to start right away. Also, try unhooking your charcoal cannister. I found that my 300K+ mile charcoal canister was saturated and caused my flooding issues. After replacing it with a sprightly 80K mile canister, I never had flooding issues again. If that works for you, find a replacement canister. Anyway, YMMV.
fm
Pull your plugs, blow out the gas by cranking it (after removing the coil wire to the dizzy), clean up the plugs, and put them back in. Then turn the key on, pull the choke, stomp 2 times and crank her over.
Mine was cold-blooded, even in the warm CA climate and I had to set the choke in order for her to start right away. Also, try unhooking your charcoal cannister. I found that my 300K+ mile charcoal canister was saturated and caused my flooding issues. After replacing it with a sprightly 80K mile canister, I never had flooding issues again. If that works for you, find a replacement canister. Anyway, YMMV.
fm
#4375
searching...
iTrader: (8)
Jibaro_12A,
Pull your plugs, blow out the gas by cranking it (after removing the coil wire to the dizzy), clean up the plugs, and put them back in. Then turn the key on, pull the choke, stomp 2 times and crank her over.
Mine was cold-blooded, even in the warm CA climate and I had to set the choke in order for her to start right away. Also, try unhooking your charcoal cannister. I found that my 300K+ mile charcoal canister was saturated and caused my flooding issues. After replacing it with a sprightly 80K mile canister, I never had flooding issues again. If that works for you, find a replacement canister. Anyway, YMMV.
fm
Pull your plugs, blow out the gas by cranking it (after removing the coil wire to the dizzy), clean up the plugs, and put them back in. Then turn the key on, pull the choke, stomp 2 times and crank her over.
Mine was cold-blooded, even in the warm CA climate and I had to set the choke in order for her to start right away. Also, try unhooking your charcoal cannister. I found that my 300K+ mile charcoal canister was saturated and caused my flooding issues. After replacing it with a sprightly 80K mile canister, I never had flooding issues again. If that works for you, find a replacement canister. Anyway, YMMV.
fm