Started on my custom hood scoop. Used a rotor as a stencil

 

.

 

Funny, I had imagined the wide part of the wedge forward to maximize/force air capture? Cool design concept... I'm looking forward to seeing it complete.


TODAY I sabotaged my first probable test driver. I've been starting her up and moving her to the highway side of the house each morning to flaunt the For Sale sign. Had some Lookie Lous. One guy that I even liked. This morning she started up fine even though it was mighty cold (but not below zero)... I let the choke in too much too early and went in the house to let her warm up... Went back out to find her not running. Other times, if the idle stalled on warm up, she has restarted fine. But this morning no. I tried a few times and decided to wait a while....

So this Guy, Glen, rings my doorbell. He's been noticing her out front, but today she was still in back, but he could see her so he rang the bell. We tried to start her... heck no. He wasn't too taken back, said he had a Mazda with EFI and it was super touchy. He promised to return in the afternoon to try again.

I spent over half an hour cleaning fouled spark plugs and de-flooding the engine, since the fuel pump ran on while I thought she was warming. Glen never returned. I took a joy ride and bought another $10 gasoline and parked her in front for a few hours, then moved her back to the back yard.

The biggest problems I find myself having to explain to potential buyers are the power assist for brakes is shot (new Master Cylinder didn't fix the low pedal action... and I hear air leak), and the speedo...

I was glib when I stated that I have NO speedometer. It does function... BADLY. from zero to 40mph it seems pretty good. Then it kinda jumps up to 50+ and jumps around 50-65 no matter what speed I'm traveling.... until I stop again and repeats this behavior ALWAYS! Any ideas?

 

Fired up the car after installing a new thermostat a couple of days ago. Also got the aftermarket water temp gauge working. Now I just need to solve my low oil indicator problem.

 

RX-7s are even easier than that. As I recall, there's a block-off plate that just has to be unbolted and removed.

 

Speedometer cable needs to be lubricated or replaced, I bet.

 

When you put the new master in did you adjust the rod? You can adjust it to and fro so that the new master will suck the proper amount of fluid from the resivour and push the correct amount.



You can test the booster a couple of ways. One idle the car and clamp off the booster line... Or feel for the difference between braking with a running engine and a non running engine.




I concure with Frankenrex

 

I just want to make it clear that I was not at Ms. DIY's house.

If I had been, the car would have started for me, because rotaries like me.

 

got started on the flares last week, before going away for the Holiday. fronts about done, rears tomorrow. new wheels to fill the gaps to follow.

 

Are those ZG flares? I'm thinking of picking up a set of those myself.

fm

 

Yes sir, they are.

 

Ms. DYI - Did you bench bleed the master cyl before putting it in? That causes symptoms like you describe.
Concur with other diagnosis about speedo cable. Drop it and spray some WD 40 or lube of your choice down the cable housing. Do the same thing from the transmission end also.

 

I don't know what a bench bleed is... so NO I didn't do it. As for the adjustment pin, I was curious enough to investigate it when I changed the MC. Is the adjustable position supposed to go toward or away from the fire wall? and how would one know how much or which direction to make adjustments?

I have been a woosie shooting wd40 at cable connections without disconnecting... I am going to loose/capture tranny fluid at the rear end? I haven't found the zen of disconnecting the cable at the dial.

I SO ENVY ANYONE IN A NICE CLIMATE RIGHT NOW!

Glen (DD) I KNOW she would have started for you! But you would never be so cruel as to try to buy her (in spite of my declared intention to sell). My boss said I made her look too good in the newspaper ad.

I really need some new owner do these things to protect myself from further personal bonding. But when weather allows, and I have time, I will try some more. I'm still waiting on some great jobs that are not making their hiring decision final.

In pic... to the left of the break rod is this not the clutch knock out? done badly? or is that still in the area of the power brake unit?

 

MsDIY, you will lose only a little tranny fluid after disconnecting the cable from the tranny if you raise the rear end. Disconnecting it will allow you to pull the cable out, lube it, and inspect the teeth of the driven gear on the cable for damaged teeth. When you're done, just slide it back in. If you have a damaged gear, you'll want to replace it. But, like others have said, most likely you have a sticking cable that needs lubricating.

fm

 

DIY: The adjustment rod is in between the MC and the brake booster.

You want the plunger to be able to extract enough brake fluid from the resivour and yet move enough of it into the system to move the pistons... So if your plunger is too long (Adjusment rod set too long) you won't pick up enough (if any) fluid. If it is too short you will push fluid back into the resivour.

Did this problem occour after you replaced the master cylinder or did it always exist?

 

Yes - this is the cover that you unbolt if you want to add the Master Clutch cylinder for the manual transmission. I converted both a 1980 and a 1985 from auto the manual. The 1980 was much easier because the trans uses the same cross member mounting location. On the 1984/1985, you have to make your own trans cross member adapter.

 

This problem is why I replaced the MC... only to find out it was not the problem

 

So I assume you're cutting your rear fenders? Are you doing the fronts too? Are you planning on color matching them, or running with them black?

fm

 

Yesterday, after about a month break, I test-fitted the BIS Smartparts (Verstec) front air dam.




I have the side-skirts as well, but I'm not sure if I'm going to install them. Also considering ZG flares (the ones that RxTex is installing now). I have the factory 3-piece rear wing as well. Whatever bits I settle on will get color matched to the car. The car itself needs some areas redone as well. It'll be a long-term project, but one I'm just about ready to tackle. I also am just about ready to fit the Weber 45DCOE on the car...just need to wrap up a non car-related project first.

After test-fitting the air dam, I took her out for some exercise...maybe a 25-mile drive. Started right up and ran perfectly the whole time.

fm

 

The weather prevented me from enjoying going for a drive.

I did make a little progress on my door pull cup project and documented that in my thread in the technical section.

Happy New Year everyone!

 

The more I think about it, the more certain I am that the adjustable pin that drives into the Brake MC is in backwards... It explains so much... The f'd up freeplay, the problem being identical in spite of new unit, the fact that I think I felt it start to drive the plunger on installation & the fact that I think the PO has sh**-for-brains.

Anyone want to speculate that I won't have to drain the brake fluid because vacuum will retain most of the fluid? I may have a narrow window of adequate weather this day.

Oh, FM your air dam passes the Visual test from here. SWEET!

 

Oh shucks, looks like you'll have to take the for sale sign down for now. It would be unethical of you to sell a car with faulty brakes...

 

fixed a few electrical issues and just posted for sale in the nw section

 

Yes. if these are done properly, cutting your fenders is the only choice.

Personally, I like the contrast of the black overfenders and the fresh black detailing on my car.. Im also dyeing my side moldings dark black, and will see if I am going to put them back on as well..

The hunt for 15 x 9s is the real job!

 

Knowing what the 84-85 linkage looks like I don't see how it would work at all if the pin was backwards. I don't know how the 80 linkage is different. I can see how the pedal would go down a long ways if the linkage needs adjustment. But that could also be true if the drums or disc calipers are not doing their self adjustment thing.

Rx-7 brakes are just brakes. There is going to be a person in your town who is a brake specialist and will be able to fix the issue.

If you disconnect the hard line from the MC you are going to have to bleed the brakes. Any air in the lines is too much. I think you will get fluid draining out so have something available to catch the fluid.

Good Luck and Happy New Year!