What did you do to your FB today?
Sin City Rotary
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,162
Likes: 1
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Changed the oil. Needed it since it was the break in oil. Best time to do it since the car has sat since November so all of it should have been in the pan.
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
I can send you the CAD file - DWG, DXF, or WMF format?
I'm not doing the fender badges at this time, sorry.
Today, I brazed the studs to the inside of my modified air cleaner cover, only slightly overheating the lid in the process (it's got a minor tweak now, not a visible or functional problem.)
Got the canister drilled, test-mounted, and cut the excess stud length down. Fits in the air cleaner without issue or interference with the idle compensator, which is a near fit.
After I refinish the lid (burned up the outside paint pretty good, heh) I'll fill the canister, bolt it all up, seal it to the lid with some Great Stuff, and should be in business, smog- and flood-wise.
I'm not doing the fender badges at this time, sorry.
Today, I brazed the studs to the inside of my modified air cleaner cover, only slightly overheating the lid in the process (it's got a minor tweak now, not a visible or functional problem.)
Got the canister drilled, test-mounted, and cut the excess stud length down. Fits in the air cleaner without issue or interference with the idle compensator, which is a near fit.
After I refinish the lid (burned up the outside paint pretty good, heh) I'll fill the canister, bolt it all up, seal it to the lid with some Great Stuff, and should be in business, smog- and flood-wise.
DivinDriver, you remind me of the slogan on the matchbooks at a market I worked at some time ago.
"The man who says it can't be done is usually interrupted by the man who is doing it."
Thank you.
"The man who says it can't be done is usually interrupted by the man who is doing it."
Thank you.
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
The snorkel label is tricky to get on a silkscreen; the details are so small that the difference between underexposed & overexposed is very narrow, especially using transparency output that was ink-jet printed and not 100% opaque. If I can scrounge up some laserjet transparency film (without having to buy $50 worth), I'll try that route too, see if comes out crisper.
I begin to see why the print on the original parts was kind of blurry; the fine details of the design are down right at the limit of what can be silkscreened, even today.
Went to a local Rotor gathering in Spokane - caught up with some old buddies and made some new 
Got a 10" Memphis M5 subwoofer in a temporary box to experiment with placement and acoustics. All i gotta say is wow - i can turn it up to any volume i want and there's no distortion and nearly no rattles on the car at all. Super clean sound. Anyone who talks **** on the factory head unit will now officially be considered WRONG.
My bro Chris (Metallic_Rock) took one look at my carb and realized my throttle return spring was way too loose. I was trying to tighten the throttle cable itself, which messed up my idle and didnt help anything. Chris cut off several coils and put the spring back on, then loosened the throttle cable a bit.
WOW who knew!? night and day difference. It used to surge and stumble really bad at low rpm, not smooth until about 3k rpm. Now it idles 1000-1100, and pulls SUPER smooth from there clear to 7k. like, amazing. WOW. I actually have useable power from 1k-3k!
Apparently the spring was so loose it wouldnt close the throtle plates all the way, hence the surging, and the high idle was putting a bit too much gas in there so laying into the throttle would make it stumble a bit.
It still runs rich, so, get that wideband O2 system on there and get her dialed in. Not a huge deal though, as my EFI setup should be arrive this week.
Got a 10" Memphis M5 subwoofer in a temporary box to experiment with placement and acoustics. All i gotta say is wow - i can turn it up to any volume i want and there's no distortion and nearly no rattles on the car at all. Super clean sound. Anyone who talks **** on the factory head unit will now officially be considered WRONG.
My bro Chris (Metallic_Rock) took one look at my carb and realized my throttle return spring was way too loose. I was trying to tighten the throttle cable itself, which messed up my idle and didnt help anything. Chris cut off several coils and put the spring back on, then loosened the throttle cable a bit.
WOW who knew!? night and day difference. It used to surge and stumble really bad at low rpm, not smooth until about 3k rpm. Now it idles 1000-1100, and pulls SUPER smooth from there clear to 7k. like, amazing. WOW. I actually have useable power from 1k-3k!
Apparently the spring was so loose it wouldnt close the throtle plates all the way, hence the surging, and the high idle was putting a bit too much gas in there so laying into the throttle would make it stumble a bit.
It still runs rich, so, get that wideband O2 system on there and get her dialed in. Not a huge deal though, as my EFI setup should be arrive this week.
Divin', can you output in PDF? If so, you retain the scalability.
The day before yesterday, I started the remote hatch release retrofit. The replacement hatch w/solenoid was a piece of cake. Under the dash, however, it was a little more work as I had to remove the fuse box to get to the wiring and switch panel. I haven't located the wiring that's supposed to be there...I found the fuel lid wires (the same color), but no sign of the remote hatch release. I'm sure they're up there...must be bundled up there tucked behind the heater ducts. :p
Yesterday I took her out for her first auto-x session. It was my first in a FR layout car. Being completely stock (with the exception of an RB front sway bar), I was sliding all over the place out there. I had control the whole time, thankfully, but those 185/70/13 tires were not making things especially easy. Actually, they were making them fun...if being sideways is your idea of being fun (it is for me).
This makes me really look forward to the GSL-SE axle and spindle swap so I can get rear disks w/fresh Hawk pads, LSD, bigger front brakes, and more rubber to the ground.
fm
The day before yesterday, I started the remote hatch release retrofit. The replacement hatch w/solenoid was a piece of cake. Under the dash, however, it was a little more work as I had to remove the fuse box to get to the wiring and switch panel. I haven't located the wiring that's supposed to be there...I found the fuel lid wires (the same color), but no sign of the remote hatch release. I'm sure they're up there...must be bundled up there tucked behind the heater ducts. :p
Yesterday I took her out for her first auto-x session. It was my first in a FR layout car. Being completely stock (with the exception of an RB front sway bar), I was sliding all over the place out there. I had control the whole time, thankfully, but those 185/70/13 tires were not making things especially easy. Actually, they were making them fun...if being sideways is your idea of being fun (it is for me).
This makes me really look forward to the GSL-SE axle and spindle swap so I can get rear disks w/fresh Hawk pads, LSD, bigger front brakes, and more rubber to the ground.
fm
Sin City Rotary
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas
I can output them as bitmaps (bmp, jpg, tiff, etc.) too, you just lose the smooth scalability. Tell me what DPI you need and I'll spool you some 1:1 scale output.
The snorkel label is tricky to get on a silkscreen; the details are so small that the difference between underexposed & overexposed is very narrow, especially using transparency output that was ink-jet printed and not 100% opaque. If I can scrounge up some laserjet transparency film (without having to buy $50 worth), I'll try that route too, see if comes out crisper.
I begin to see why the print on the original parts was kind of blurry; the fine details of the design are down right at the limit of what can be silkscreened, even today.
The snorkel label is tricky to get on a silkscreen; the details are so small that the difference between underexposed & overexposed is very narrow, especially using transparency output that was ink-jet printed and not 100% opaque. If I can scrounge up some laserjet transparency film (without having to buy $50 worth), I'll try that route too, see if comes out crisper.
I begin to see why the print on the original parts was kind of blurry; the fine details of the design are down right at the limit of what can be silkscreened, even today.
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
Yep - in fact I had to for the curved text, as my (new) inkjet printer was having a bit of an argument with my (2000 version) AutoCAD plot drivers. Came out lumpy - - old versions of acad had trouble with some truetype fonts.
The PDF is perfect, though. I can PDF the other two items as well.
The PDF is perfect, though. I can PDF the other two items as well.
Got under the car again today to chase down more rattles. Heat shields. 320K miles hasn't been kind to them. And I'm not doing a thing about them as I have a Racing Beat exhaust that will be going on this car in the next couple of months. No heat shields, no rattles. Until them, I'll just grin and bear it.
fm
fm
GSL-EV
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 450
Likes: 8
From: Rapid City, SD
I've been working on mounting my XM satellite radio neatly on the center console of my EV RX-7. I spent far too much time on it and I am glad to say I have overcome my OCD and it is considered good enough. Here are pics. Ill take a couple more when I get it all put back into the car. There is about 1/8" clearance between the ashtray and the bottom of the XM mount. Sitting in the drivers seat the XM does not block the view of anything on the car stereo. The plate is a real carbon fiber plate about 0.030" thick. Very stiff, much more so than a sheet of steel that thickness and yet weighs less than aluminum. The space to the left of the XM unit will end up with something having to do with the EV aspect of the car.
Got my 15X8's on today with take off's RA1's 205 50 15. Attachment 494016
Speed!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: bremerton wa
So how do people use Holley air bleeds on the emulsion tubes?
Or are people exchanging the nikki fuel jets inside the fuel bowls for the Holley air bleeds?
I think I'm losing it
Last edited by Redliner223; Mar 26, 2013 at 05:21 PM.