Shuva

So I typically run these fluids, any reason not to do the same on the SA22C's? I just bought the cars so I thought I check first.

Break/Clutch - Motul Synthetic
Motor - Redline Synthetic
Transmission - Redline Synthetic
Gear oil - Redline or Royal Purple
Radiator - Redline WaterWetter + (antifreeze for winter only)

Thoughts?

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

everything should translate the same, except for "maybe" synthetic motor oil, i hear good things and bad things about synthetics and rotaries lol. but you be the judge, i've used both and did notice slight improvement with synthetic, but not enough to justify the slightly higher price, so i use the more affordable stuff now lol.

as long as you keep up your maintenance, i don't think it matters, so experiment a little

PercentSevenC

I change my oil too often to justify synthetic in the engine. Your call, though. I also like a 50/50 mix of ATF and regular gear oil in the tranny. There's a thread about it in the tech section right now.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

It is a good idea to use antifreeze/coolant all of the time. 50/50 mix is good for most areas unless you live somewhere where it gets real cold. Use distilled water. The coolant has rust/corrosion inhibitors, so it will help to keep your coolant system in good shape.

If you are really worried about the summer heat, you could dilute the mix for the summer, but I doubt you will need to. If you want to go crazy with coolant, you could use some Evans NPG (expensive, though).

http://www.evanscooling.com/main21.htm

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

also make sure your system can stay pressurized, it will change the boiling point of the coolant. its like 3 degrees each psi

Shuva

Makes sense, now how many of you have bled the clutch by yourself without an assistant?

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Doable
was on my own swapping in a stainless line...
but pop a speedbleeder valve into it and your good to go

Re: coolant
I use mercedes coolant ($21+ gal) - after reading all the reports on high-mileage alloy/iron engined benzes having as-new-cooling systems with the stuff. No mater what you use, just be sure to change every 3 yrs.
To START with your cooling systems update, I'd suggest go with the Clean-Slate Approach:
Replace ALL coolant, ALL hoses (yes even _heater_), thermost and belts. Pull and have the rad chem-dunked. Then you know where you stand! Rotaries demand a top performing cooling system. Cheapest investment in keeping engine happy next to 3K oil changes.

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

Shuva

Thanks Stu, speed bleeder valve sounds like a great idea. Is there a thread/size I should be aware of? I am hoping auto parts stores will carry it.

Haywire7

I replaced the clutch slave on my car a couple of months ago. I had wanted to put a SpeedBleeder fitting in it while everything was out of the car. The slave bleed fitting thread size is M8x1.0 (according to my notes). SpeedBleeder brand <www.speedbleeder.com/size.htm> makes one fitting of this thread size. I already had one of that size here (SB8100) so I tried it. Not compatible. Too short. The threads match but the hex head portion of the fitting contacts the cast iron before the conical end has a chance to seat.

So I just recruited an assistant to help bleed.

Shuva

FYI-- my Mrs. helped be complete the job old fashion way. All the local parts store said it was a special order. Both clutch and brake fluid were empty on one car and the other one just the clutch fluid. Is this a common thing to happen on these cars? That is, clutch fluid disappears when sitting for a long while (1+ yrs). After cleaning the old fluid (dark brown-- yikes!) I have not seen any leaks or drops on the floor. Any idea on a good way to find a potential leak if one exists or just wait and see what happens?

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Only clues will be:
a) puddles
b) look for rust-trails where fluid has been leaking down over paint, esp at firewall, eg behind, below brake booster (in the case of the brake master)

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska