First of all I would like to take a moment and thank everyone on the forum for their help and support!!! But I have a few more issues now....

After many hours of laboring installing the Mazda Reman engine I finally was able to start it up! I was very suprised at how easy and well it started up, not only that the idle is dead on. I was walking around the car checking and double checking everything while it was running and I noticed a pinging noise(like metal tapping) on the driver side of the engine, to me it does not sound normal. I know it is hard to describe, on thing though it was consistant, maybe like 4-6 pings a second....Then on the passenger side around the air control valve/airpump it was making a loud hissing noise. I am such some might be from the airpump sucking in air, because I just have a very thing filter on it for the time being....

If I am not mistaken when starting a Reman up the exhaust is going to smoke some for a while from the lubricatnt when they assembeled the engine...Then I started to see smoke from around the turbo/downpipe area. I am not sure it it could have been brake fluid that may have fallen down while bleeding the ABS, or just have been from handling the turbo/manifolds and there being alittle grease on it, but it was smoking pretty good ( like on the borderline of an exhaust leak and grease/oil burning off).

Then I went to check the Metering oil pump lines, and I could not see any oil in them, they are brand new lines... are you supposed to see the oil run through the lines?

I only had the engine run for about 5 mins, just to get stuff moving and so I could check the fluids...

 

I have a few small videos of the car to show how it sounds, and maybe help diagnosis the various noises, but I am having a hard time finding a place to host them... So they will be up soon... I think one of the noise might be from the trubo not being on tight enough, because I could see alittle exhaust smoke coming out from where the manifold meets the turbo...

I also found a few coolant leaks, one is from the back of the engine to the filler neck and the other is the lower radiator hose from the heater core... So it looks like i gotta take care of that... Then when I was under the car, it looks like one might be from the lower inatke manifold

The exhaust pulse is strong as hell! I am not joking but I HAD a cardboard box about 20x20x7 with some small interior pieces and bolts in it and it blew it away! It also pushed a door open about 1 foot, the door was cracked open but still! BTW is 2.5 RB DP/MP to a Feed Sonic HS-R catback...

 

I just satarted mine to a TII conversion. It sound good and strong, yet I noticed some of the things you noticed. A bit of vapor from the turbo side, which cleard up as teh engine warmed up, it must of been some dadiator fluid that I spilled on that side. There was also a constant clicking sound from the turbo side, and I could feel it on the engine to, kind of odd.

The oil that you filled the engine with must be clear so you might not see it in the oil metering lines. YOu could also add some premix just to be on the safe side.

You should leave your car on longer so that all the oils and stuff burn off clompletelly.


Do you have a link to the Feed sonic HS-R catback.

Have fun.

 

Here is the link http://www.pac-gate.co.jp/feed/

I will run some premix just to be safe. It has probably be running only 15 mins so far. I want to fix the coolant leaks before I run it any longer...

 

Anytime you do an engien swap or a rebuild, expect smoke, a lot, for the first half hour or more. Your hands have contacted all the exhaust parts, and that **** has to burn slowly off. Don't be alarmed by this and shut the car off, you just defeat it's ability to burn of the **** and stop smoking.

 

Well I found the other leak, some how the clamp on the 90 degree coolant hose under the TB got loose and that was where it was leaking from... So not I got the screw type and that sucker will be on there rock solid!

Is there anyway to reroute that 90 coolant hose so when you remove the TB/UIM that it does not come off?

 

My solution to this, on t2 engines which retain the thermowax:

Obtain 2 12" lengths of coolant/heater hose (fuel/emissions hose will work as well). 4 hose clamps, and a piece of 3/8" metal pipe that you cut down to about 2" long(something to use to join 2 ends of said hose together).

Attatch one hose to the block nipple, with a clamp. Attatch one hose to the thermowax nipple, with a clamp. Install the UIM. Leave both hoses sticking up. Now, use the metal tube and 2 remaining clamps to join the hoses together. Now you can easily access the hoses to seperate them.

 

Do you happen to have a pic of the set up? I I have pretty damn good idea of what you are talking about but pics always help...

 

Pic? no. It';s just somethign I do. Run 2 long hoses and join them at an easily accessible point, rather than having one short hose that is inaccessible.

 

Ok thanks!

 

Well I have just about completed it, I have the lines all run... But now I have a problem of the UIM not sitting down l the way, the back sticks up about 1/4-12 inch. I am sure it is from the lines, I have tried moving them around and I still could not get it to set right....

I don't want to "cut the circulation off" by just leaving like that, did you ever have this problem? And is it normal?

 

I tried alittle more to work the stuff around and still no luck.... hmmmm

Also is it a problem if there are extra bends in it?

 

You don't want it to be in a bad bind, but some bends are fine. When the coolant warms up it will make the hose pliable and coolant will flow. This is not really too important anyway...it is just for the Thermowax which will work no problem. I regularly block these passages off altogether on no emissions motors.

 

But doesn't it then flow from the TB to the front housing? Because I assume I would have the same problem if I would reroute the coolant line to the bac valve if I got rid of the thermowax....

 

I don't understand your problem with this...I just said that even with no flow at all through those nipples/hoses the engine doesn't care. BUt coolant WILL flow through a hose with a kink as it heats up. Pressures raise and the hose heats up and becomes more pliable. THink of a garden hose with the pressure turned on...even with a kink, some water flows through.

 

By the way, I never have any big problems from kinked hoses when doing this mod. Perhaps you are using larger hose or something.

IF you arent' comfortable with this, do it your own way. I am just sharing what works for me.