will a stronger spark (larger dia spark plug wires) overcome the tendency to flood?

Or is it worth the extra $$$$ to get the racing Beat spark plug wires, and the iridian spark plugs. I'm not an enthusiastic (fast) driver.

The problem is my car likes to flood in cold weather. Usually after pouring methanol straight down the carb the car starts right up smoking a little. If that doesn't work, removing all the plugs, and cranking the engine to blow out the chambers, and putting the plugs back will fix the problem.

I know that using the cheap Autolite spark plugs is a rotten idea. Also that sand blasting will not correct a fouled plug. And that using premium gasoline is another rotten idea.

Also the car floods even when I rev it up to 4000 rpm and cut the ignition. I thought this would blow out the chambers as the the rotors gradually down. Seems counter intuitive now that I think about it. ................I'm confused!!

Plug wires, dist cap, rotor, and plugs are at least 6 years old, but the original set was 13 years old when I swapped them out.

 

So heres the deal, the stock ignition is just sufficient when the cars where new. As they age,
the ignition becomes less powerful. To your point, a stronger spark will make starting a flooded
engine possible without all the monkey shines you have described.

What you need is a stronger ignition, more amps thru the ignitors and stronger coils. I'm fond
of my own setup which is a variation of the DLIDFIS solution. Look up that acronym and you'll
learn a lot. My sig has a link to my own variation using HEI ignitors and TFI coils.

Short term, anything you can do to make sure you have the strongest spark possible will help.
We usually see these posts when it gets colder out. So:

1. New plugs and wires never hurt.
2. Replace cap and rotor.
3. Make sure the dizzy pickups are adjusted correctly.
4. Refresh battery ground cables and connections.
5. Add some extra grounds to the engine.
6. Make sure your starter connections are solid.

 

My rx-7 is a daily beater. TFIDFIS, HEI, and J109......that's over my head. I have upgraded the battery leads to bullet proof 2 guage, and make the connections rock solid.

Question is, dropping 4x $28 DENSO{#IRE0127} Iridium spark plugs (rock auto) , and $160 ultra-red spark plug wires (mazdatrix) or $68 magnacor (mazdatrix) going to over come the tendency to flood in cold weather???

And there isn't any difference in the new rotors and distributor caps available.

 

t_g knows what he's talking about, I'd stick to his list up there.

DLIDFIS is the way to go, I'm planning on it this year. His write up is superb and very detailed so it isn't too hard to figure out if you just follow along.

Better spark isn't going to fix a flooding issue, that would be a carb adjustment screw that needs to be messed with.

 

linda....

which screw? the easy to get to one or the hidden one??

 

The flooding can be caused by a number of issues related to the carb and its age. You may want
to get a rebuild kit and pull it apart and clean it real good. You may have floats sticking or other
debris in there causing a flooding condition.

 

since these don't flood much, i'd have a look at a few things.

1. Autolight plugs do not work with the stock ignition, the gap is way too big. also since there is just one electrode they wear faster. for a stock ignition, just use the stock NGK's.

2. i check the wires with a voltmeter, the resistance should be under 16k ohms, i think new is closer to 6k. the more resistance the wires have, the less ignition power you have. if you're a rich guy you can replace em instead of checking

3. cap and rotor last a long time, but if you have any doubts they should be replaced.

4. when its running and warmed up, adjust the idle mixture screw. this is the one that is kind of on the center on the base of the carb, easy to get at. i adjust to the best idle speed, and then maybe 1/4 turn richer.

i would see where the basic tune up stuff gets you, a stock car should just start right up, so if it doesn't something is wrong.

 

Mazdatrix says that unless I'm racing the car, EOM plugs and wires are just fine. And that unless the plugs and wires are really bad, they won't affect flooding.

My car has had this sub 40 F flooding problem since '96 when I left L. A. Even after a motor swap.

And it never has idled correctly.

 

Flooding is a fuel/vent/emissions system problem, not an ignition problem.

A stronger ignition will help prevent misfires when running rich, but actual flooding (excess fuel in the chambers) can really only be cleared up by addressing the root cause.

 

After shutdown, pull off the aircleaner and see if you have fuel trickling into the bowls (with the car off, after a good warm-up run).

Stick with NGK plugs...

Check your timing...


.

 

After you fix the carb/ flooding a set of blaster2 coils will male a huge distance in your spark