TommyTaltec

I was casually looking for an inexpensive manual transmission car to teach my kids to drive.
I came across a 1979 RX-7, manual transmission. It had been for sale in a yard near me on and off since last summer. One owner who pre-ordered in 1978. Always garaged and well taken care of. I haven't looked at it close, but was told one small rust spot and one small dent from a driveway incident, Probably otherwise very good, unrestored stock condition. 115,000 or so miles.
I have learned a ton about these cars and rotary engines in the last few day, much from you folks.
The price seems fair. I'm guessing that the engine hasn't been rebuilt. He didn't mention it, and I didn't know enough to ask at the time. I likely couldn't afford a rebuild if it was needed in the near future. I've read 80,000 - 100,000 miles is normal for a rebuild.
My questions - How likely to get more than 120,000 miles on a well taken care of engine? He said he changed the oil every 1,000 miles the first years. I'll find out if the OMP is working or if he premixes. What would the car be worth if I had to unload it needing a rebuild? I'm going to look at it this weekend and will know the condition better and get the VIN.
Thanks for any input.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

if maintained right, these engines will last well into the 200k range.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

So I wouldn't turn kids loose in one of these but if you are looking for your own fun car that you happen to use to teach the kids to drive a manual then go for it. That car is just getting broken in. You realize you will need to do a lot of maintenance to get it to a reliable drivable condition. Check the compression and if its all even, a rebuild is probably not needed and with proper care the engine can go over 200K easily. If you had to unload it needing a rebuild, condition really matters, but 1-2K maybe.

XanderMan

Sounds nice and the kids would have FUN learning how to drive manual on a cool sports car ! How much is the seller asking for the car ?....Do you have any pictures of the car to share?

TommyTaltec

My kids are in their early 20s. I want to undo a parenting fail. But, thanks. It wouldn't be wise to send out a young driver in this little fun to drive car.
The car is still driven regularly, minimally. It's never sat, other than winter. The owner is now in his 80s. So, I believe it's in good working order.
Asking $3000. He was looking for $4,000 last year.

Two more questions;

Are the OMP's hard to find? It seems when they go, most are going to premix.
And, is emissions testing an issue?

Thanks.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

Metering pumps are still available new, so no, easy to find.

if you need to pass emissions the 79-80 Thermal Reactor system is actually better (imo), its super reliable and it works. they aren't kidding about the thermal part though, the thing needs to be HOT.
if its broken, parts are NLA, and not many people really know how it works anymore

except for the age of the thing, the Rx7 is a good car to learn to drive on, they won't break it

Maxwedge

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=TommyTaltec;12416318]My kids are in their early 20s. I want to undo a parenting fail.
/QUOTE]

Maxwedge

iTrader: (1)

Emissions testing is different from state to state, county to county. Talk to your inspection station, he can tell you the rules for your location. Many areas have a rolling 25 year rule, so that once a vehicle hits antique status (25) there's no more sniffer tests, but they may still look for physical parts like CAT and air pumps. Again, varies by location.

TommyTaltec

Just checked, there is a an emissions exemption at 25+ yrs old here in CT. Thanks. It would be nice if all concerns were alleviated as easily.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Storage is EVERYthing, on any old car really. Unless the owner was/is dutiful in either running it regularly (doubtful it sounds like) or correctly put to 'bed', expect problems. Agree engine could be just fine, tho I would be VERY careful about just hopping in and spinning it up initially. If things have dried out in the combustion chambers, or worse, any carbon deposits have accumulated, chances would be excellent you could do some major damage right off the bat.
Some ideas before starting: (others should chime in!)
-New battery unless the one it has is recent. Weak batteries are bad news for rotaries. They require muscle and strong spark to fire up
-make sure battery cables are sound and clean at posts (including the "other" end at the starter/rear engine block where they attach)
Again, many no-start gremlins chased down to poor contacts on cables.
-disconnect the fuel pump power (I do not think there is a fuse for that, others can confirm) - Unless gas was drained or treated, it will be goo. And you do NOT want that running up to the carb on your trial starts!!
The power cable for the pump runs up into the floor under the rear metal cover (carpet-covered) behind the seats, on the driver side. Pop out the carpet plugs that attach the carpet to the cover, flip it back and unscrew the philips screws that attach the cover to the car. You will see the harness connection right at the floor, coming thru a rubber grommet.
-Recommend you feed a little (50ccs ea) oil down the carb throats (4 BBL, so you need to feed oil down both fr and rear throats to get oil into both chambers). Let it sit over night.
-Next day, WITH PLUGS DISCONNECTED (and pump dead), crank it over several times and see how it sounds. Now you have it turning, and some lube in the chambers for seals. (and, oh, yeah: once it does start IT WILL SMOKE LIKE A B@ST@RD!! This is normal after long storage. The neighbors will NOT be pleased...)
-Change the FUEL FILTER! - located under neither, in front of rear driver wheel (beside fuel pump, which is under a cover there).
FRAM G2. $6 or less at any auto parts.
-Change the spark plugs. Lets give this baby every chance to start correctly: NKG BR9EQ-14
-Likewise new Cap and Rotor. These parts are unique to the 1979 RX7 vs later RX7s. Your Mazda dealer can order these new, or you can buy from someone like Rock Auto or my personal fav Mazdatrix, who are long-time rotary specialists: Mazdatrix.com
-So now its ready to start. What would still hold me back it running it with whatever is left to call "gas" still sitting in the tank. With months, maybe years to sit in there, the gas will be polluted crap. Sediments, possible insides of the tank metal shedding, you name it, will be waiting to plug up all those tiny orifaces in the carb. The fuel filter should stop the floaties, but not the bad gas itself. Ideally the tank should be drained. Unfortunately, the 1979, 80 RX7s have NO drain hole. The only way to get out the gas is syphon out thru the gas filler. The idea I would suggest is to get out as much of the old gas out, then fill the tank with fresh gas to dilute the old stuff as much as you can. This sounds like a PITA but believe me, compared to stripping down the entire fuse system to clean out crappy gas is worse!

Oil Metering Pump. I have found these to be pretty reliable. They are completely mechanical and bone-simple. Once you get the engine running, you can pull the oil line nipples off the carb and hold them over a cup and watch for oil being metered out. Worse case for now is run some premix (I add 8oz of cheap 2 stroke oil into each tank of gas, and yes my OMP is working fine)

Finally, if you do get the car, be sure to get ALL the original paperwork he may have. Great to have and absolute GOLD if you ever resell the car. Good luck. Look forward to outcome and see some pics of the car....

Stu A
80GS
(bone-stock with 110K miles)
AZ

TommyTaltec

Thanks for the reply and info. I figure/hope that's a paste and post for many new owners. Either way I appreciate it.
I don't know that this car has had an extended period of downtime, other than winters. I'm guessing that his winter prep and spring restore have been pretty good. I'll know more soon. If I buy it, I'll surely be scouring this forum to do it properly.
I'm really getting excited about something that I just fell into. I can't enough info on these cars, and engines. I'm getting sucked into your world.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Don't get me wrong, these are great cars. Tinker-toy easy to work on, fun to drive and the good ones have seen some big jumps in value, especially if its the more-common GS model with the 5 speed and optional sunroof. If the car is clean, no rust and the mechanicals check out, $3K is bargain-basement value. Even if you had to sink say $5K into making it a nice clean running car, you would be in the price range (actually, the BOTTOM of the range) for good unmolested early RX7s. Drive it, enjoy it, get at least what you put into it when you sell it. Can't beat that
Please post some pics when you get it!!
Stu A
80GS
AZ

TommyTaltec

Apparently the older gentleman didn't recall well our conversation from earlier in the week. There was no answer all morning, afternoon.... then when I reached him - "sold". $2,500.

I never got the VIN unfortunately. So, never found out just how early in 78 it was.

Bummed is an understatement.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I know it's important to do research to ensure the purchase is the correct one. The thing about "good" rx-7 at a decent price is that you need to pull the trigger immediately. Now that you have some knowledge, the next one will be easier to make a determination.

I picked up a 1979 GS (SA22C501673 very low vin) in outstanding condition for a little over $1000 about three years ago. It was a non-runner from the original owner.

I've also lost a deal for a RX-3 because I was not willing to pay a little more. It was a mistake on my part.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

Sorry to hear that you missed out. I hope the car went to a good home. Keep looking. You'll end up with a nice one or one that you will fall for and restore. Once you have one of these cars, you never want to be without one.

Rx7_Bob

Hang in, there are more of these originals out there. I'm here absorbing info while bringing a very early (fall 1978 delivery) back to life! Rx7_Bob