Strange issues with my 80....It sat all winter, I didn't disconnect the negative battery terminal right away because we got hammered with a lot of snow right off the bat. Also i did not put any gas treatment in before winter and I think I should have. That being said, I just changed the spark plugs, ignition coils, I have the rotor coming in friday or monday, battery is tested 100%, but unless i am jumping it from my subaru it will not crank. I used a battery charger (a very good one) but even with that it will try to start a few times and then ceases. If it's jumped though it will try to start but it only sounds like a strong attempt to start for the first few seconds, after that it weakens, yet still continues to crank. Any help is much appreciated!

 

Sounds like you have high resistence in the starting circuit some where. I would start by going through all the battery and starter cables. Just cause they look good on the outside doesn't mean the copper wire on the inside isn't packed with green/white corrosion and oxidation. Load test the battery too...might be a bad cell.

 

Agreed, battery cables, esp if original, could be crap - losing a HUGE amount of juice before it get thru to the ignition.

Change the fuel filter! $2...

keep us posted - esp if you DO get her going and WHAT you did to do it!

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

I'd look at the battery.

 

See I thought the battery was shot, but i brought it to autozone to test it and nothing is wrong with it. I'll check the cables, change the distributor rotor when it arrives, and the fuel filter is below the driver seat correct?

 

actually the filter is in the area above the axle i think? been a while since i've been under mine.

 

I wire brushed the terminals and put that terminal lube on, battery problem solved but it still wouldn't start. I took off distributor cap and those terminals were basically all shot. I am getting the cap and rotor tomorrow.... does the rotor just pop right off?

 

Yeah, just pull straight up and it will pop off.

Most likely, after all of those failed starting attempts, your motor is flooded. Clean the plugs off, make sure they are sparking before you put them back in, then dump a couple ounces of Seafoam down the carb and start her up. The Seafoam will usually do the trick.

Good luck.



.

 

Yes, you can just pull the rotor right off.

 

Thanks a lot guys....I'm anxious to get it running even though i won't be driving it until I am positive we are in the clear with snow. Mostly the snow plows and the EVIL salt they throw.

 

mine sat for a while in winter and wouldnt start. i have a 79 and i tried everything and it just sounded like it wanted to start but never did. i ended up putting some engine oil down the carb to lube the apex seals. about a 1/4 cup. after about three runs with that and giving it gas before each try it started right up. now mind u that i cranked it for a while and had to keep it hooked up to my other car so the battery didnt die. and it will die if u dont keep the throttle down to get the oil burned out. there will be alot of smoke so do it outside and it will most likely back fire a few times before smoothing out. but my car has cranked right up and ran smooth ever since.

 

It takes fuel and a spark to ignite it, to start an engine. Oil lubricates the internals and reduces the friction between moving parts so that they don't weld themsevles together into a siezed lump of metal. Although it probablly didn't hurt, I'd say the oil was not necessary. Sounds like the engine was not getting fuel.

I have a car that also can be a little stuborn after a long spell. But I know this and with a small squirt of starting fluid, she'll fire right up and be ok untill it sits for a month or so. I like to add some Sea Foam to about every other tank of gas, just to keep the internals clean and lubbed good. Mechanical things often perform better with regular use and care. Letting a car sit for long periods does more harm than if you sensably exercise it once in awhile.

 

Once the motor is flooded, it won't be able to develop compression. Oil, ATF, etc. being added to the carb is all part of an attempt to rebuild compression (once the fuel has washed away all of the oil/flooding).

Any of those will work, but I prefer to use Seafoam because it won't foul the plugs like oil/atf can. Usually runs better than it did before after deflooding.

 

I've heard if seafoam is not used properly it can do more harm than good. What is the correct way to do it with a rotary engine?

 

Put it in the gas tank. The only other exception in my opinion is a couple ounces down the carb for de-flooding.

Problems seem to arise when you try to suck it in through a vacuum hose, or pour large amounts down the carb. Most of these issues end up being fouled plugs and flooding after the treatment.

Just pour it in the gas tank, and enjoy the results.

 

Ok, changed distributor cap and rotor..... jumped it with my subey and still did not start, even with starting fluid. I had thought it was a fuel issue but even then with the starting fluid I would think the car would start up and just die. Could it be the fuel pump?

 

If you do the fuel pressure and delivery test described in the FM, you'll know for absolute certain if it's the fuel pump or not.

You can also look into the carb bowl windows and see if fuel is reaching the bowls. Rear one takes a mirror and flashlight, but front one is easily visible.

 

I'd think that if it was a fuel issue, it would fire with the aid of the starting fluid then die due to lack of fuel. Have you checked for spark? If thats Ok, could it be floded?

 

I am definitely getting spark, I just replaced the coils, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.... what if it is flooded? I thought the excess fuel in the engine evaporates after an hour or so.

 

Not with a rotary engine. A rotary will never "de-flood" itself. The problem is, the gas washes away the oil film that provides compression. Without compression, the motor will spin quickly with the starter (assuming battery is fully charged) but simply will not start.

If a couple of ounces of Seafoam doesn't do the trick, then try a couple ounces of 2-cycle oil down the carb. I had to resort to the oil myself last Saturday while bringing my car out of winter storage.