79-85 Rx7 Outer Door Window Seal (8871-58-781-ARS)

Atkins Rotary has announced these today. Personally I am stoked as this was the only rubber I didn't have for my restoration. (I went as far to get new fuel door stops). Thought I would share this with everyone.

 

Many thanks for the info. I've searched for months, but found zip.

 

Please let us know how well they fit, pics would be nice.

It's Atkins so I expect the quality to be good but for $50+ I want to be sure.

I was excited a little while ago when some rear taillight seals became available.

But when I went to install them recently I discovered the fit was terrible.

I ended up using my old ones., $60 wasted.

Thanks
Ray

 

I would also love to see some pictures and hear how they fit!!

 

Direct link? Trying to open Atkins' home page makes my computer crash.

 

https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/7...71-58-781.html

 

I replaced mine just before they disappeared - I think I got them from Atkins as well...? Glad someone is selling them again because this is one seal that you will always know is mal-performing if it's dry rotted or broken. Mine fit fine (although there is a very small gap at each end) and if I did indeed get them from Atkins last time, there's one testimate on their behalf. I'll try to sort out where I got mine from if that'd be helpful.

Edit: Just checked and I did in fact get them from Atkins. However, they may have been - probably were - old stock as compared to Atkins now making their own, so in terms of fit I likely can't say. My part number was 8871-58-781, not the "-ARS" they have now (maybe that's for "Atkins Rotary S----?"). Anyway, I hope they fit well.

 

Benjamin, the ones I got from Rock Auto had a 3/4 inch gap. Why can't they just sell them slightly long, and let us trim to size. The material can't be that expensive compared to what we pay for them.

 

"the material" is the thing, since the profile of the seal is critical.

It has to fit snugly to anchor the seal to the door frame while forming a tight seal to the window.

Here's the cross section of the original Mazda door seal, lifted from the Mazdatrix website:


The flat part of the seal pointing away in the picture is the surface you see when installed.

The tongue pointing toward you is the part that anchors into the door.

I just installed what may be the last pair of original Mazda 8871-58-781 door seals on my 83 LE.

They fit perfectly, very tight seal to both the door frame and glass.



There is a small gap at each end, but if you look closely you will see the seal itself fits tightly up against the metal door frame on both sides of the window - any longer and it would require the piece to be custom cut to fit over those small gaps at the end.





It may be that Mazda wanted a direct fit part, not something that would need to be custom fit.

So let's hope Atkins has found the ideal material to make a seal as good as the originals.

Maybe they'll cut them an inch longer for those who are annoyed by those little gaps at the end.

Whoever gets a set of the Atkins units, please post some pictures!

 

Before i cut the new rubber

 

The original Mazda ones were too long and you had to cut them to fit properly

 

"The original Mazda ones were too long and you had to cut them to fit properly"

Not in my experience.

All three of the sets of 1st gen original Mazda door seals I've installed fit perfectly, no cutting needed.

Please read my post above and check out the photos, those are original Mazda door seals.

Here's a picture of an original wrapper, sealed when I got it from Avondale Mazda in Arizona.



Maybe the "Mazda" seals they sell in Australia are counterfeit?

 

i remember seeing some that were long, but the last set i had wasn't. and then they do shrink

 

New doorseal and windowseal - Page 2 - www.RX7fb.com

In 80ties a company from thailand was building the the door seals for mazda. I got mine from thailand cheap, fast and top quality.
8871-58-781 Outer W/strip = 8 USD/pc x 2 = 16 USD
8871-58-791 Inner W/Strip = 8 USD/pc x 2 = 16 USD
Here the contact:
Mr. Kitisak Piyamitlawan

autodepot_service@hotmail.com

 

I finally got some photos of the Atkins outer door weatherstrip. It does not cover quite as much as did the original.

 

I put a dab of black RTV on each end to seal up those gaps. Greatly reduces the amount of water that gets into the door cavity.

 

Huh... good idea. A while back I sealed up all my leaks but I still get lots of water through the doors even with new seals. Perhaps I should give that a go. I might also have clogged drains - haven't really looked into it much. Not trying to bring this off topic

 

I'm thinking blocking off those holes might not be a good idea.

I mean, how much water is going to get in there anyway?

But then again, the enemy of doors and other interior body parts is trapped moisture.

It sits in there and rusts things out.

But if you have those little vent holes at the top of the doors you'll be getting good ventilation when the sun's out.

Just a thought.

Now those Atkins seals do look good!

Not quite the same profile as the original Mazda seals, a little bumpy, but not bad.

But at $24 each maybe a bit pricey?

So I looked into those window and door seals from Thailand that Rx7fb spirit r mentioned. See the attached pdf invoice.

$8 for a window seal, $25 for a door seal. Only issue is shipping.

But I'm thinking, after checking quality with some photos and maybe a sample, we could do a group buy?

 

You do not want to completely seal the door up. Air needs to flow so that the moisture can evaporate. If your drains are clogged thats another issue as well. Ever wonder why OEMs put a plastic moisture barrier on the inside of every door ever made for a car? Its because the door is designed to get damp inside because moving windows can never, ever seal up 100%, ever. Air flow and drains make this all work. So a small gap at the end is ok.

Now mine are original and with the rubber shrinking in the last 40 odd years the gaps are close to 1/2 inch. Ouch! Probably causes more noise that anything.

 

Air also can flow to the inside of the window "seal" so that the moisture can evaporate. No need let the rain and aggressive wash water have to find a way inside the doors. Doors always starts to be rusty on the front botton edge.

 

I thought about the air flow, but I think there's enough with the drain holes and very little water gets in there now. Granted, she sits in a conditioned garage now and the only time she gets wet is from washing every 2-3 months.

I used to get water in the sill screw seats and now I don't.

If my car lived outside all the time, I think I'd still seal up those gaps. None of my other cars have gaps and don't have rust on them.

 

These doors look very clean, almost new. What are the details on the car?

 

Meticulously restored,restomod. Much attention to detail. Owner,his name is Thomas has posted some details with pics on car through different stages of ownership on these forums.
Not his 1st FB.
P.S. Look at floor,think that’s in his garage...

A car i’d Like to see in person. At some point in future have plans to travel to Germany and would like to include meeting Thomas and have a look at his car at some point while there. Bringing my personal translator/geargead,her brother an engineer for Porsche,involved in their racing program.
Another destination while there.
Last time there,had distinction of being stopped for speeding on Autobahn in his company car.
Another story altogether.

 

PM the time you will visit Porsche Weissach in Germany. Perhaps you would also like to visit the
https://www.europapark.de/en near the town Lahr where Mr. Felix Wankel was born. All the sightseeing points are on the autoroute highway Weissach/Stuttgart BAB 8- Karlsruhe BAB 5-Basel.
Also near the town where i am living.

 

The way to get a Rx-7 FB Spirit R 1984 - www.RX7fb.com