It is nice and easy to reach, stays out of the way of the engine bay, and keeps any passenger's legs warm. Well, to actually get warm, I would have to be driving hard enough to cause oil starvation and the Accusump has to work. Right not the greatest source of heat is the hot air that blows up around my shifter. I have a OEM boot that I bought on ebay, but I need to glue it to make it seal and keep the hot air out.

How do you do your oil changes? Dave told me to put in four quarts, run the engine with the Accusump open for about 10 seconds, shut the accusump, shut off the engine, add three more quarts of oil. Is this how you do it?

 

So, yesterday I did the unthinkable. I have beed driving my car to break in the engine before it is dyno tuned. However, it really looked like crap with about five colors and a couple of spots where the body was sanded down and some bare metal was exposed which started some surface rust.

I went by the bodyshop that I want to use on Monday, but they have not given me a quote yet. So... I rattle canned automotive primer all the fiberglass, putty, and metal. I only did the fenders and front bumper. The car is noticeably less embarassing to drive and if I may say so, it looks half-way decent.

I taped it off pretty good before I did it. so some interesting geometric shapes came of it. Now I can focus on the break-in and retune and as least my car is only two colors.

 

So, today was my first tuning day after engine break-in. It was 90 degrees today, so keep that in mind.

At low boost (11psi), I am making 309 rwhp.

At high boost (16psi) accomplished with the flick of a switch I am at 353rwhp and 288lbs of torque.

I'm happy and will be keeping it on low boost but running high when necessary. I will post dyno graphs when I get them scanned.

I'm happy, 350whp and almost 300 lbs of torque is more than enough for most FBs and definitely enough to get me into trouble.

 

It seems that everyone lost interest in this, but I'm happy with it.

I mis quoted my torque numbers above, it is only 285.99lbs of torque.

 

Lost interest? Hell no, I'm reading everything you post.

 

same here

 

Awesome! I thought I was talking to myself for a while.

Had some fun on the highway in 4th today: I put the car in the fast lane, step on it and listen to the jet engine taking off under my hood as the car attempts to squat the 275lb rear springs (200lb springs on order from Re-Speed), and catapults forward. All you have to do is hold on to the steering wheel for dear life and hope no idiot decides to change lanes without signaling. For those thinking of doing this, getting the TII brakes is a must once you go over 400wfhp. If not for your own sake, for all the idiots out there who do stupid stuff like come to a complete stop before turning etc.

Signed up to run the NASA event at Pocono on the 4th and 5th. Will contine to get used to the car and drive the crap out of it in order to work out any bugs. I'm still waiting for the bodywork quote but hopefully that will be done by then. If not, I'll rock it as it is. The flat black is not terrible.

 

What pad compound are you running?

 

What, no pics? It may only be a rattle can job but we still want to see it.

 

Glad to hear you're back on the road again! Now try not to crash it before you have the time to enjoy it.

 

What I'm running sucks! I have the Hawk HP street pads and they are terrible for high-speed braking. I need to change them. Any recommendations?

I know, I'll try to snap some tomorrow even though the car is filthy.

I will do my best. It is tempting to push it though...

 

Carbotech. I worked at a driving school for a year or so, and I was responsible for a fleet of race-prepped Miatas. We were running 205/50R15 RT615s, and we ran Carbotech XP10s on the front, and XP8s on the rear. Even with cold tires and cold pads, I could bounce a passenger off the dashboard if they weren't strapped in. And neither myself, nor anyone else that rented one (or the several Spec Miata guys I know that run them) have had any complaints with fade or longevity.

I bought their street compound for my DD for some autocross use, and LOVED them. They didn't have any pads made up for my car in that compound, but in 24 hours they made some up for no extra charge.

 

doesn't look like they (carbotech) have pads for 4 piston rx7s...

 

Right, just call them up. They didn't have any for my car/application either, but they made some up at no extra charge very quickly.

 

have u used project mu, they have some very nice pads

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/perf...ads#Project_Mu

 

I haven't. I've heard they're good, though.

 

updates?

 

Hey man - I didn't know you had this thread prior to seeing your car at KDR two weekends ago... very impressive. Good luck at Pocono!

 

have you thought about the hotrod/satin black? with actual auto paint? you can do the whole car for probably $200 including sandpaper and everything if you spray it yourself.

 

Blitz black ftmfw.

 

I went on a cruise with my girlfriend. We met up with my sister in Miami along with her husband and kids. Four day cruise that stopped in Key West (***** bag paradise) and Cozumel (which was beautiful once you left the tourist-trap portion).

My sister planned the trip and only told me about it after she had planned it. For those out there planning a cruise, do not go with Carnival. Spend a little more and get decent food and shipmates. I would have never booked Carnival as I am a snob, but she was trying to save money because she has four kids. I told her in the future to plan with me as I would have happily covered the difference to be on a better ship that was not covered in 1970's casino-style gold leaf and neon and LED lights, prison quality food, and bodies that I would rather not see in swim suits.

Anyway, enough of my rant. Car update:
Bodyshop still has not given me a quote. I guess they are not dying for business.
Re-Speed rear springs have not arrived yet either.
Car has been sitting for two weeks and when I went to start it the battery was totally dead. Either the battery is not holding a charge or I have a trickle somewhere.

I snaped a couple of pictures of my dirty car so you can see what it looks like. I will now go look for some Carbotech pads in order to get them here before going to Pocono Motor Speedway as that is a very fast track and I need good brakes.

Pics:

 

we race a honda, so we almost change the engine with the oil... but anyways this is the lame part of the accusump.

open the thing, and drain oil as normal. dave is right about the fill. fill the engine, knowing the accusump is there, you could over fill it. start it, close the accusump, and then recheck the oil level.

you will shut the engine off without closing the accusump (you are human! we have 5 drivers, and 20 crew, it happens to us all the time). hopefully this isn't messy, its not a problem on the honda

BTW the flat black might not be what you wanted, but it does have that no BS look...

 

Thanks! Were you there with your RX-8? I need to get some more rotorheads to come out the the HPDE events.

Thanks. I don't know from the above statement if you change your engine a lot or if you never change your oil. Either way, I will follow your recomendation and will do my first oil change this weekend. I did not close the accusump once, but realised my mistake within 5 seconds of shutoff. A little oil got in my catch can, but that was it. I was told that it will push the dip stick out and run down the side of the engine (additional cooling?)

The $50 paint job works for now. I get three paychecks next month, so one of them will go for the paint. The partial primer black kinda works for a race car and surely beats the 5 different shades that it was before.

 

you could do primer then wet sand it and hit with a satin clear ... it is such a mean ominous look, of course just my two cents

 

yeah the Rx8 is an AWESOME track car, even stock. the chassis/suspension is just excellent. transmission is geared perfectly.

we run the 25 hours of thunderhill, and its a honda. so basically its totally worn out and using more oil than gas halfway thru the race. so yes, it gets rebuilt every other oil change.