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Mariah WB, Seats, Harness, Rollbar, T04, Re-Speed Etc...
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,279
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington, DE
It is in decent/good condition, black with a couple small tears in the cracks. Nice an grippy and great for a sports/race seat but not as deep as the full race seats that I have in it now.
You can see it a little in the very first picture in this thread and here I found another pic and a couple totally unrelated pictures that came up when I did a "seat" search on my hard drive (from back in my M3 days and no, that is not my car).
I'll trade it youf your FC for sale
:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-vehicles-108/89-rx-7-gtus-real-giant-pic-warning-56k-beware-895955/
You can see it a little in the very first picture in this thread and here I found another pic and a couple totally unrelated pictures that came up when I did a "seat" search on my hard drive (from back in my M3 days and no, that is not my car).
I'll trade it youf your FC for sale
:https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-vehicles-108/89-rx-7-gtus-real-giant-pic-warning-56k-beware-895955/
Sounds like a good trade, haha. I might have to come pick this up from you sometime when I have my RX7 running in 2-4- weeks, and not the Buick. I will let you know when I am able to, but I would definitely like the seat.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,279
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington, DE
Off to KDR for finishing
This Saturday I dropped the car off at KDR to finish everything and get new paint and the widebody installed. I just did not have time to do it all myself.
A few pictures before it went.
Mariah kit:
Hella, HKS, and rear bearings:
New Moser axles:
On the trailer, ready to go:
Some seat/interior shots:
I'm happy with the way the seats came out.
A few pictures before it went.
Mariah kit:
Hella, HKS, and rear bearings:
New Moser axles:
On the trailer, ready to go:
Some seat/interior shots:
I'm happy with the way the seats came out.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,279
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington, DE
Some engine shots
Can kinda see the steering rack:
1600ccs:
Not much clearance for the turbo, but I found a filter at Pepboys that fits:
Steering u-joint and coils:
My antique plate which means no annual registration, emissions, or other inspection:
Decided on the color. Car will be painted the Spirit R Titanium Grey 25G.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,279
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington, DE
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,279
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington, DE
My insurance has not changed at all, although I'm going to get collector car insurance once everything is done with just in case.
I would reconsider that turbo filter, I doubt it will flow anywhere near enough for your setup. Somewhere on this forum someone posted the flow rates for the k&N filters and you would be surprised how large the filter actually has to be to flow for 300-400 hp.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,279
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington, DE
Do you have any suggestions on how to protect my turbo/engine? Running totally filterless is not an option.
It looks like your manifold locates your turbo very far forwards, but here is how I have mine.
The inlet on my turbo is 4" so I found a 45 degree silicone coupler (believe it was from raceparts.com) than I found a piece of 4" steel (was actually an exhaust tip on a diesel truck). You may be able to get something like this to work, but it may also be too tight with the radiator mounted in the stock location.
I also recommend getting some stainless steel t-bolt clamps, they will not damage your couplers and hold evenly the whole way around your piping for a tighter fit.
Your car is looking great!
The inlet on my turbo is 4" so I found a 45 degree silicone coupler (believe it was from raceparts.com) than I found a piece of 4" steel (was actually an exhaust tip on a diesel truck). You may be able to get something like this to work, but it may also be too tight with the radiator mounted in the stock location.
I also recommend getting some stainless steel t-bolt clamps, they will not damage your couplers and hold evenly the whole way around your piping for a tighter fit.
Your car is looking great!
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,279
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington, DE
It looks like your manifold locates your turbo very far forwards, but here is how I have mine.
The inlet on my turbo is 4" so I found a 45 degree silicone coupler (believe it was from raceparts.com) than I found a piece of 4" steel (was actually an exhaust tip on a diesel truck). You may be able to get something like this to work, but it may also be too tight with the radiator mounted in the stock location.
I also recommend getting some stainless steel t-bolt clamps, they will not damage your couplers and hold evenly the whole way around your piping for a tighter fit.
Your car is looking great!
The inlet on my turbo is 4" so I found a 45 degree silicone coupler (believe it was from raceparts.com) than I found a piece of 4" steel (was actually an exhaust tip on a diesel truck). You may be able to get something like this to work, but it may also be too tight with the radiator mounted in the stock location.
I also recommend getting some stainless steel t-bolt clamps, they will not damage your couplers and hold evenly the whole way around your piping for a tighter fit.
Your car is looking great!
. Dave does great work, but I think he takes on all comers and does not schedule when people should come in. So he can take a long time to get to it. I want to be able to drive my car in this beautiful spring weather!
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,279
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington, DE
Totally off topic, but I need more toys...
So, my FB is in the shop (KDR) and I am lonely and need something to play with. In addition, I need a DD that has A/C.
Enter my new/old 325es
180k miles, manual. 25mpg city, 29 highyway.
It is not a rotary, but it has some soul (and A/C) and of course it is a manual.
I'm changing the timing belt, water pump, oil, all belts, thermostat, and flushing the cooling system just as PM. Car runs great!
I also ordered a new head unit and 4 new Boston Acustic speakers from Crutchfield today. As a DD, I need tunes with ipod capability and bluetooth is a nice touch.
Here are some pics.
Enter my new/old 325es
180k miles, manual. 25mpg city, 29 highyway.
It is not a rotary, but it has some soul (and A/C) and of course it is a manual.
I'm changing the timing belt, water pump, oil, all belts, thermostat, and flushing the cooling system just as PM. Car runs great!
I also ordered a new head unit and 4 new Boston Acustic speakers from Crutchfield today. As a DD, I need tunes with ipod capability and bluetooth is a nice touch.
Here are some pics.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,279
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington, DE
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,162
Likes: 1
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Well do it once this one is close to done. Can never have too many project cars, and it's just an excuse to buy more cars. "oh well I needed a new DD because I'm putting a rotary in this one." See, it's easy to explain away.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: kansas
Hey i am interested in which roll bar or roll cage kit you went with is it bolt in or weld in? who makes and how much was that roll bar hoop that sits behind the seats? also you got any pics of the install?
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,279
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington, DE
Really? Probably the cheapest and easiest thing that I installed here--unfortunately. It is just the Autopower Race roll bar but they also make the weld-in cage that attaches to it if I ever go that far.
http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant...ory_Code=AP591
I bought it from a local speed shop that had to order it. I try to support the local vendors and they split the shipping with me. The bar is necessary to properly mount the harnesses and the back brace on the seats that is now required by NASA and SCCA. I still run HPDE and I do not think it is required, but I try to do upgrades that are upgradeable so that I waste less money later (the exception being my brand new wheels and tires that I now have to unload).
http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant...ory_Code=AP591
I bought it from a local speed shop that had to order it. I try to support the local vendors and they split the shipping with me. The bar is necessary to properly mount the harnesses and the back brace on the seats that is now required by NASA and SCCA. I still run HPDE and I do not think it is required, but I try to do upgrades that are upgradeable so that I waste less money later (the exception being my brand new wheels and tires that I now have to unload).
I did not take any pictures of the instal. It was pretty straight forward:
Place the car on jack stands (you need to do this to get into the wheel well and below the floor pan)
Remove the seats
Eye-ball the bar in place
Drill pilot holes
Attach with the included hardware
Drill the rest of the holes and attach the rest of the hardware.
The entire process took me about 2 hours.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,279
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington, DE
Well, I stopped by KDR today and it loos like just today they finally got it off the trailer. So, they were just getting started, but at least they started.
A couple pics:
Hover modification:
5-lugs
Rotors:
And, new calipers mounted.
Lets get this thing on the road!
A couple pics:
Hover modification:
5-lugs
Rotors:
And, new calipers mounted.
Lets get this thing on the road!