Nice!

 

i'm pleased that its finally coming together. i should get the oil cooler back today... i got the call that it had been pressure tested and welded.

 

Looks like your getting there Dave. How much did it cost to get the oil cooler cleaned and repaired? One of mine needs some work...

 

well, i have a friend who works for a machine/engine building/dyno shop and the cost to hot tank, pressure test, weld two bungs, tap the two out (16mmX1.5) and re tank and pressure test....$20..wont be done until at the latest monday...they needed to retap the bungs as they welded both sides of the crack to ensure strength.

 

well, i picked up a 25ft roll of 3/8" aluminum fuel line from summit yesterday. drove down there becasue i didnt want to wait for shipping. i am going to use the aluminum line as my feed line and the current feed line on the car i am going to use as my return line. i will post pics tonight when i'm finished.

 

here's a pic of the roll of aluminum fuel line that i bought:

 

here it is as of friday night. the parts that need to be installed to finish the car are the fuel pump, exhaust center section, bleed the brakes and clutch, change the trans fluid, install the hood..after attempting to remove the rest of a bolt that broke off...

i must say that i really liked workng with the aluminum fuel line! easy to bend and flare. i used my current 5/16" feed line and used the 3/8" aluminum line as my return.

 

Lookin good, that fuel line is really easy to work with isnt it? After using it on my FC a few months ago I want to redo the fuel lines on my FB's with it now haha

 

that fuel line was super easy to work with!!! i'm hoping that the current 5/16" feed line will suffice for the needed fuel. i figured that since the fuel lines on the engine were 5/16" that it shouldn't be a problem..

i did get the hood on, the defroster vents in, my new spare tire installed..more genuine progress! i love it!

 

Yea 5/16" will be just fine especially since your going for a stock (right down to the air cleaner lol) setup. I have 5/16" feed/return lines on my T2 FB and it works just fine.

 

thanks Sean, thats good to know. i was figuring it would be ok. i'l lpost more pics tonight of the progress. i'm going out there now to do the front brakes. i'm replacing thds and rotors, and grease seals as well as repacking the wheel bearings

 

Sure looking a lot better than when you brought her home. You do nice work.

 

^^thank you very much. i really try hard to bring my 7's back to their glory. always seems that the knuckle busting is worth it in the end when you're driving the car and know that you brought it back to life. the car is looking much better..still could use paint

 

well, quick update...i decided to try and crank the engine over and test the electronics...everything seems ok with the engine....i hope...at any rate, my only problem is that when i turn on the headlights, the wipers come on and the wiper switch does nothing...i may have a couple of plugs crossed on the combination switch...

 

ya i had that problem when i was playing around with my car, the headlight and wiper plug can be swapped.

your doing a damn good job, looks like its going to be a beautiful car

 

Yep, did that with my first project car, the plugs are the same size, just switch them back and your good to go. From what you were describing in that other thread I had a hunch thats what you had done.....

 

that was only part of it, got the plugs switched back and i was in business...or so i thought... i had to go through the entire harness to trace a short...finally found it though..took hours...

 

bleeding of the brakes and clutch as well as installing a midpipe, gas, antifreeze, and any adjustments are all thats left to do..

 

Oh so there actualy was a short? Was it in the main/dash harness or in the rear harness like you were initially working on finding? Glad you are making progress on it though will be a nice car once its up and running.

 

thaks sean..well, seemed to be a short in the licensle plate light wiring...or storage bin light wiring. both were suspect..so far no problems out of either since i pulled the wiring apart for inspection and reassembly..

i really hope the engine is good..that will help make it a nice car

 

Yea the ability for the car to move itself forward is always a good thing, you did the "whoosh" test I assume right? so you know it at least has some kind of compression?

 

whooshes just fine..i'm more worried about coolant seal failure..or low compression...

 

Yea that would kinda put a damper on things, but would also be a good excuse to rebuild. I wasn't too happy to find my FC's engine was blown when I got the car, but now that i've rebuilt it (my first rebuild) and it runs I'm kinda glad that was the case, was a good learning experience.
Are you going with a stock exhaust setup on this or some Racing beat parts?

 

the plan is to use as stock of an exhaust as possible. i'm aiming for a quiet reliable daily driver. i'm using the stock exhaust manifold and an original stock SE muffler (glad i saved that little guy). i bought an extension pipe (from main cat to muffler) for the 12A..should work fine with the 13B. sooooo, i have a universal cat with flanges that i'm going to use between the manifold and extension pipe. the challenge is making the rest, manifold to converter. shouldnt be too bad. i have the original SE exhaust flange that bolts to the manifold and the kicker is that it had a little of the piping still on it. should give me good reference to the angle.

once i receive my fuel pump plate in the mail i will install the pump and button up that area. i have to replace the pads and rotor on the right front..i have the new parts...i did the left side last week. hopefully i can get a friend over the house today or tomorrow to help me bleed the brakes. i'll bleed the clutch today.

 

cant get it to start....fuel pump is not working..though there is no fuel in the tank anyways...i'm just using starting fluid.. good news is that i have good spark