austinrx7bill

1982 GSL with 66K miles (way less on drivetrain as it was an RV tow behind its whole life before I picked it up)

See attached short video for the location of the leak -- watch for the drip.

Anyone have an idea of where that leak might be coming from and what I need to do to fix it? It looks like it is coming from that mechanism with the lever buried deep under the carb.

FYI, while I consider myself pretty handy (I currently have 7 Porsches -- '73 911, 914, 924, 928, 944(2x), Boxster, -- an X1/9 Land Rover, 5 dual sports, a couple of sand rails and some other stuff, a number of which I've done complete engine rebuilds and a couple of body-off restorations), I have done only minimal work on the RX7, and only things in the engine compartment has been a clutch master-slave flush, an idle adjustment, and some AC and washer system troubleshooting, so I am still pretty lost on the whole carb setup -- the only thing I've done is replace the air filter

Kizmit99

Many, many others here with much more experience than me, but to me it appears to be a leak from the accelerator pump. There is a diaphragm in there that I suspect is leaking and causing that drip.
If you download the carb manual available from the links in the faq it's part number 59 on the main body that I suspect is leaking...

(I would wait for someone with more experience to confirm, but maybe that will give you something to look into in the meantime.)
Best of luck getting the issue resolved!

Steve Adleman

def dripping at the AP, tighten the screws there and on the top of the carb, if that doesn't help you probably need to rebuild or at least pull the carb off and make sure everything is snug

austinrx7bill

Thanks gentlemen. Good you were able to see that drip as it goes by fast in that 5 second snippet (it's a slow leak, and to get two drips on one video requires about 20 seconds and 26mb, which exceeds the 20mb attachment limit).

So now I know what that lever is that pivots in the housing.

FYI, it now won't start now on its own even with the (magnetic?) choke pulled, but it will with a little starter fluid in the carb throat -- and once running, stays running and running well. But if I turn it off even after well after warmed up (hot), it won't start again without some starter juice. Does that sound like the AP?

How hard is the rebuild as the whole carb set up looks pretty complicated: it seems to have more vacuum hoses than I've eve seen on one engine?

If I am diving in are there deep anyway, are there other gaskets/seals I am going to need to renew as I work my way down from the top to the accelerator pump.

austinrx7bill

Kizmet99, looked at all the carb related topics/links in FAQs but couldn't find the carb manual you mention to download. Can you provide me the link to it? Thanks/

Kizmit99

This is the link to the carb manual: http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/ma...01979-1985.pdf
From this page (which has a ton of manuals, etc): Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals

The main body assembly breakout diagram is labeled page 59, but it's page 106 (of 133) in that pdf.

As far as rebuilding the Nikki carb - I was intimidated by it at first, but once I got into it, it was much easier than I expected. Be sure to keep track of every single part though to make sure it goes back together correctly. There are rebuild kits available for the carb for around $40 if I recall the price correctly. I don't think the rebuild kits include the AP diaphragm though. And I *think* they may be hard to come by...

austinrx7bill

Thanks for the links. A weekend or more of reading in there.

Do you recall where you got the rebuild kit? Who's the got-to vendor for all things RX7 as I haven't had to figure that out 'til now? Maybe they'll have the diaphragm separately.

Kizmit99

I'm pretty sure I got my rebuild kit from RockAuto.com
As for the go to rotary folks, I think those would be Atkins Rotary, Racing Beat and Maxdatrix. I always price shop around though and sometimes it's cheapest to buy via ebay or amazon. For my refurb of the whole car I've bought a lot of parts from RockAuto.

Steve Adleman

the AP diaphragm is usually included in a rebuild kit, which is readily available. it's recommended that you re-use the original needle valves and seats, just clean them. also be careful not to lose the tiny check ***** when you take the top off the carb.