midnight mechanic

I'm installing a new CD/usb/bluetooth/reciever head unit (new radio). Crutchfield gave me three sets of connectors and wires that I'm supposed to splice to the head unit, and just plug them into the cars OEM connectors. I find that I have to make my own connections, search for constant hot wires, wires that are hot with the ignition on so it isn't just plug right in.

Maybe my car got a hack job before I got it. Or maybe it is just me. What has everyone else's experience been when they upgrade their stereo on their 31 y o rx-7?

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

First did mine so many years ago it's hard to recall details, but keep in mind that the original stereos in cars of this vintage had no need for constant 12V - - they had no digital station info storage or clocks. Station storage was mechanical, and the clock was the clock!

On the other hand, some did get a feed from the dash illumination dimmer that modern head units don't bother with.

Constant-12V can be tapped at the ignition switch, or off the feed to the factory clock. Be sure to use an in-line fuse with your tap, if the stereo doesn't have one.
Switched-12V pretty much must come from the ignition switch (or from the mains via an isolation relay), though the factory stereo's power lead could work depending on your wattage draw. Factory stereo power was miniscule compared to modern units.
The factory speaker wiring is very much substandard by modern standards - - very low-gauge & not isolated at all. Even installing back in the 90's I re-ran speaker wire of higher gauge.

jim_chung

iTrader: (2)

I would just take the seats out and run new wires to the speakers, get new speakers, and delete any stock amplifiers and get a new amplifier as well. Then splice into the existing harness on your new head unit. You made need a relay to get the power antennae to operate correctly, its wired reverse to current practices and will rise automatically but retract when the unit is on.

midnight mechanic

the existing harness is this tiny four connect to the speakers , and then there is a separate hot
wire. So things were hacked by the p o.

Really thin speaker wires came with the heat unit (JVC kd ar959 bs). What is baffling, is that the new head unit has rca connectors rear output to the amp, then a wire from the amp goes to the antenna, to the headunit, and then to the speakers?

With this set up, I just hope I won't have to use an amp. Seems like the mega thick wires should come from the amp to the speakers, or to the head unit, and then to the speakers. That is mega thick coaxial wires.

midnight mechanic

I asked a policeman about head unit thefts. He said unless it is a high priced unit, a ghetto blaster, or a gps one, most thieves would not take the time.

I thought dropping $140 on the head unit, and $110 on the speakers (4 inch and 5 1/4 inch) would of given me better sound. I hadn't had any since 2002. Maybe I'm just use to hearing the home system.

midnight mechanic

How is it that these fast food burger turning minimum wage earners can afford super loud home furniture rattling from 100 yards away car audio systems? Is there a specific brand that caters to such?

I dropped $250 on a single din head unit and 4 and 5 1/4 inch speakers, and the system clips at high volume.

Red95FD

iTrader: (3)

I kept the oe hu and added new speakers, wires, amp, and ran an iphone line to the center console. Once i tuned it up it sounded great.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Living in Mom's basement, eating her food, and using her electricity makes that $10/hour go a lot further for car parts.