Ckforker

Finally getting around to replacing my clutch. I gotta say, this is absolutely the biggest PITA job.

had to remove the center console, including stereo, remove the ratsnest, exhaust, exhaust shields and probably should have removed the oil cooler line, hopefully it’s not damaged.

anyway, the clutch disc seems to have a little uneven wear, anything to be concerned with?? I’ve never replaced a clutch and maybe it’s normal after almost 40 years.

also anything else I should replace? Doing rear main crank seal, front and rear trans seal in addition to all the normal clutch stuff.

I'm having someone build a new driveshaft and having the flywheel resurfaced. No one around here is willing to change the staked ujoints.

thanks

j_tso

iTrader: (2)

it's recommended to replace the pilot bearing in the e-shaft as well. The special Mazda tool makes it a breeze, but there are workarounds.

Also do the throwout bearing while the transmission is out.

Ckforker

I have all that, I bought it as a kit. The only thing I don’t have is the bearing installation tool. Hopefully I can carefully get it set properly.

LongDuck

There's a grease seal that goes into the eccentric shaft behind the needle bearing, as well. Don't leave it out, or your needle bearing will dry up, grenade itself in there, and you'll be doing this all again in 6-12 months. As the other posters stated, replacement of the needle bearing is sometimes problematic and I've had to grind one out with a Dremel tool when it got rusted and the race got stuck, and to install the new one you can sometimes get away with using the plastic clutch disk alignment tool if you break off the round loop on the end and tap with a hammer. Be careful, though. You don't want to damage it or crush the race installing it, and take time to grease the eccentric shaft hole a bit before tapping it into place. Then goes the grease seal, last.

You're right. This job is a PITA for the amount of effort it takes to do it right, but at least you only have to do it every 20 years or so! Pro-Tip: replace the clutch cover (*pressure plate), clutch disk, and resurface the flywheel all at once. I like Exedy clutch disks and covers, as they offer a little more clamping force and seem to last a long time if you're good with a clutch. A new Throw-Out Bearing is cheap insurance, too. The idea is to do everything in there at once so you don't have to do it again anytime soon. For that reason, I also replace the transmission input cover, gasket, grease the fork and pivot, and the put it all back together - because you want it to operate smoothly. The last time I did this job, I also replaced the flywheel because it was all apart and I could get to it all very easily because the engine was out (*haha).


Also, know that the single biggest issue with getting it all lined up and bolted together again is OVER-greasing the input shaft needle bearing. Doing so will cause hydrostatic lock that will prevent you from inserting the input shaft into the eccentric, and nothing you can try will force it without breaking off the mount tabs where the bolts go... Just enough grease that all of the needles are covered, then wipe the grease seal clear of any grease on the rubber surface facing outward.

Go slowly, take your time, and good luck,

Ckforker

Thanks for all the advice! Everything is new except the flywheel. I took it this morning to be resurfaced and have a new driveshaft built. It was in really amazing condition, IMO, being that it’s almost 40 years old. The next clutch replacement will be someone’s else’s problem!

i can’t even tell you how many posts I’ve read before attempting this and no one’s even mentioned that one of the ears on the bellhousing interferes with the oil cooler line 😡. Maybe I’m just the last person on the planet with the beehive cooler.

Toruki

There are some hard to reach coolant hoses that run close to where the bell housing connects to the engine. While it is all apart, you *might* want to replace those.