Ok, so i recently bought a fd with a broken clutch.
I got a new one with the car (spec 3).

So now i finally got around to take the gearbox out, and to my surprise there is now a push-type clutch system with a twin os giken clutch and flywheel.

None of the above fits with my spec clutch.
I need a new flywheel and a new fork for the gearbox to build it back to pull-type.

So this will cost me a few bucks anyway, is there maby a better solution than buying the above? Another push-type clutch kit?

I am aiming for about 450-500 rwhp.

 

Given your power goals, I would suggest repairing the OS Giken clutch and selling the other.

 

I think that might be the best aswell, after some research my current clutch should hold off about 600hp.
The reason its slipping looks like its due to oil.
Is there supposed to be a gasket around the tranny? I guess the only other way oil could come in is due to a poor pilot bearing seal?

 

engine oil on the clutch=

bad staygear o-ring or rear main seal

If its gear oil that the seal on the trans side may be bad..

 

sounds like your rear main engine seal is leaking behind your flywheel. Its not too much of a drama to change when the flywheel is off.

 

This... Check to see if you can tell what type of oil. Transmission oil has a distinctive smell so it shouldn't be hard. Most likely, it's engine oil. In that case, I would go ahead and replace both the stationary gear o-ring and the rear main seal.

 

Yep sounds like rear main seal. Have fun taking that nut off the flywheel! Might as well put in a lightened flywheel while you're at it.

This tool will make removing the flywheel so much easier, if you're planning on doing that!

http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=49-22000

 

A tip to getting the flywheel nut off is to get a bit of metal, drill a couple of holes in it and bolt it to the flywheel so when you spin the flywheel it just pushes the bit of metal against the ground locking the flywheel it in place.
That and a huge breaker bar / grunty rattle gun should do it.

 

I would also suggest repairing the OS Giken clutch and selling the other.
here is the website for spare parts http://www.osgiken.net/products/clutchspareparts.html

just replace rear main seal and pilot bearing

inspect the clutch...if it looks like it has enough life left...wash of the oil...bolt it back in...

if you really wanna go back to pull type - sell your os giken clutch and push type assembly...should get more then enough money to convert back to pull type...
but that would be a downgrade...

 

Thanks guys, i will keep the os clutch then.

I remember seeing a drop of oil on the bottom of the push-mechanism when i looked though the inspection hole of the transmission. The oil wasnt dirty it looked like clean new oil, does this suggest its oil coming from the transmission rather than the engine?

Honestly Im not sure how i can tell if there is enough life left on the clutch. The best I can do is post some photos of it.

 

Think ill try that.
Is that nut inserted with thread locking compound? Might it be an idea to heat it up a little?

 

Here are some pics of the clutch.













There is about 3mm left on each plate. Do you think i should just get new clutch disks along with pressure plate and center plate? Or is my current ok for some more miles?

 

Sorry cant comment on your clutch - cant see your pic on my work PC.

The nut may or may not have locking compound on it. A torch can/will help but just take care as with anytime where fuel / oil/ flammables are close by.