What is the size of the axle nut?

2. My passenger side caliper experienced an overheating to the point of boiling brake fluid within the caliper I've been told to replace the caliper but i was able to push the piston back the with a C clamp. the Piston goes back and the seal looks fine and my guide pins look fine as well. I pumped the brakes and the caliper moves without issue.

What can be said about the condition of that caliper? Will it get stuck with the new pads and rotors unless i attempt to at least service that caliper? Will do a brake fluid flush at a minimum and polish the piston with emery cloth

Thanks in advance!!!
The pads which are not pictured are toast!

 

It got stuck for a reason and I don't see what hitting it with emery cloth will help at all unless
you are referring to pulling the piston all the way out. In which case, a rebuild is in play.

Until you recondition that caliper it will keep acting the same way. When you bust it open you will
find ridges of rust and gunk on the inside of the caliper that is probably impedding movement.
The passenger always seems to be the worst side on my car as well. Theres a reason rebuilt
right side calipers are NLA and left sides are all you can get.

 

So that non rebuilt caliper will probably get stuck again and burn up my new pads and rotors?

 

Likely,just a matter of time or miles

 

Its a no brainer. New caliper pistons are available for cheap, get new pistons and seals and rebuild both front calipers. Its not hard at all. Really. Once I found out how easy it is to do I felt foolish for ever buying rebuilt calipers, never again.

ps....Never fudge on brakes.

 

^^^^this

 

I purchased the rebuild kits. Now about those pistons. . .
Where do I get em from. Any reputable places? Is this the correct part?

 

I guess ill just rock auto it. They have front pistons in stock. Might as well get the rear rebuild kit too while im down there

 

also make sure to put a little grease on the pins. the caliper is supposed to move side to side freely. if not, it will wear the outer pad quicker. i've rebuilt many calipers in my time but never had to replace a piston. and as for the size of the nut, no clue. it's really not tight enough to need a wrench to loosen it.

 

It's possible the piston is good-won't know til disassembly. Good idea to have pistons on hand,along with caliper rebuild kits. Really simple caliper to overhaul,should run a hone thru bore to lightly clean it up. Check fit on replacement piston at this point without seals. Should drop right in and fall out in your hand when turn caliper over. If your existing pistons have no pitting in the area where the seal contacts it in normal operation,you can polish them with fine sandpaper/crocus cloth. Same as new pistons,the fit should be checked in the bore before assembly,the right side that gave you trouble may have seen enough heat the piston is not round anymore,happens,likely you can reuse your pistons if ok cosmetically. Lot of satisfaction in rebuilding/repairing your car,best way to learn how everything works. Looked on Rock Auto,the pistons for your car are out of stock,they Have rebuilt Cardone L&R calipers in stock. You may be able to find/order pistons from local NAPA or a like parts store. Recommend you address both sides at same time,even though left side is not currently giving you problems,would be a shame to have a new set of pads/rotor finish ruinedfrom an overheated,stuck caliper. Would be wise to address condition of wheel bearing/grease also as they saw a lot of heat from sticking caliper. A suggestion: if you don't daily drive the car and have a place where you can take it apart and assess exactly what you need before ordering parts,may save you from ordering things you may not actually need.

 

Now that we have talked you into rebuilding the fronts, please be aware that the rears are a different animal, the mechanism for the emergency brakes is incorporated into the rear calipers and makes them very challenging to reassemble. A very stiff spring situated around a threaded rod if I recall correctly. I wouldn't attempt a rebuild on them unless absolutely necessary, and even then it probably should not be attempted without prior experience. I didn't think I would ever get mine back together, and even after I did was not sure they were right until I tried them out on the car.

 

Did mine on my SE over the winter,glassbeading and painting along the way. Taking apart and cleaning not a big deal,but getting the wedge back in properly oriented is a chore. The threaded rod that goes into the back of the piston has a series of wave washers that can be a bear to compress and get the wedge into position,this is the toughest part of the job. Recommend take one caliper apart at a time,so you have the other to refer to if you get lost on reassembly. The second one takes no time at all once you've done the first. Took pics when doing mine if you think they'll help.

 

Awesome information. So that seems to account the overheating ring on my spindles on both sides was due to caliper related overheating?
Since the initial post I :

Swapped pads and rotors
Cleaned and regreased bearings thoroughly
Greased pad slides, pins
Seated the wheel bearings
I found a gnarly write up of the rear rebuild process on the internet pdf rear caliper rebuild by paul@pw.cx and yes you are absolutely right. A whole nother animal!!. It mentions that knuckle wedge reinstall step and it was the only thing that put furroughs in my eye brows haha. Printed it out and made a booklet. I did a pad and rotor swap in the rear last year and i think my calipers are still sticking. I could hear what appeared to be the initial caliper sticking issue. Brakes were very noisy at the time.

Are brake hose issues common on these vehicles? Check/ one way valve issues locking up the caliper that appear to be stuck calipers. Also. . Im guessin that I should apply brake fluid to the piston and its bore wheh doing the slide test? Thanks!

 

The car is 30+ years old,replacing the brake hoses for maintenance is not wasted money,peace of mind. When i rebuilt my brake system i replaced all the hoses,none showed/caused any problems. I wanted all components in brake system to be new or rebuilt+i upgraded to stainless braided hose all around. There are no one way check valves in front brakes on your car. As to verifying piston fit in caliper before reassembly,just do it dry to make sure piston slides in and out of the bore. Pic not good but i think you are seeing the original heat treating of the spindle from when it was manufactured.

 

No way thats awesome! I had a feeling the blue ring wasnt from neglect. Nothing rides on the spindle in the middle. The cavity of the rotor goes over that blue ring

Thanks again guys great responses.

Any other maintenance that i should consider along side these next projects/repairs :


Intake manifold gasket and o rings (currently leaking coolant )

Oil metering pump orings. I had swapped the gasket to the block but not the orings inside... online purchase only or rtv the originals? The entire bottom of OMP is as wet ss can be

Header -The fresh air pipe from the pump rotted off the exhuast ) should this be done sooner because now the cats are getting over heated/clogged/probably already are?
Front end rebuild and alignment (4 tie rod, 2 ball joint, idler arm bushing, sway bar link and bushings)

What have i missed along those lines. My rear diff is a bit noisy. Will that GM additive help? Or do i just do a drain fill with lucas?
Ive also read about the steering boxes 3 adjustments and how even an experienced person can mess it up. The manual steering box is simply loose at this point. That large 31mm is loose. When should I tighten with the alignment considered. There is a rotary shop around and I simply want to continue my journey and have a professional do it or advise. Its an automatic GSL and its staying that way unless engine croaks . My other car is a 5spd honda accord with the high comp jdm engine swap so again thanks for the advise. This FB is my cruiser