Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

I want the Turbo Forward, for Three reasons.

1) For optimal Power, the main runners need to be over 13 inches in length. This gives it a "turbo header" effect which will have a scavenging effect as well as decrease any spooling time.

2) I have several sensors which all need to be mounted on the downpipe. (Haltech O2, Wideband O2, Regular O2 for knock sensor and Autometer Rich/Lean Gauge, and EGT)

3) I want to build a Cold Air Box around the intake to maximize power (and look pretty trick.)

Kinda like this one (Max7's)

gen1mike

beautiful. i envy your guys's(you and mike p-28's) creativity and ability to push the envelope. very nice.

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

DirectFreak, Your car is very nice!!!! It definatly deserves a Mariah bodykit. Good looking manifold. Wish I could fabricate like that. Question, looking at the pics it kind of looks like the DP will be a tight squeeze when attached. Maybe the pics are deceiving but just wondering if you have fitted it yet? I have plans of starting a TII 1st gen. project, just wondering what rearend you would opted for. I'll probably shoot for around 300-350 hp with a TII tranny. Just deciding on a Ford 9 or a TII rearend.

Good luck

setzep

If your shooting for 300-350hp then the stock axle will work just fine. Mike-P-28 is using the stock axle and it's still in one piece (god knows he beats on it ). There are V-8 FB/SA's running around with the stock axle also. Seems you need to upgrade when you fit some fat slicks under the rear and hit the strip.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Thanks!

As Setzep stated before me, Stock for now. Eventually probably a for 9.

On a similar note, I just ordered my driveshaft. 3" reinforced steel with replaceable U-Joints. Good for V8's and 800HP with slicks. Guaranteed Not to break.

Now I will really never be able to mount slicks until I replace the rear.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

It is quite large, so I didn't want to post it in the thread directly.

Ultimate Turbo FB Fuel system information, how to, and with Pics!

Firstgen_rx

Hey all. I have been reading your posts for quite some time now and I would just like to congradulate all of you for your work and effort that you have put forth! I am planning on swapping in a TII into my '79 this comming summer or next. I am going to use the TII tranny and would like to know what you guys have been using for a drive shaft? I have already swapped to GSL-SE suspension on all corners so I am using the GSL-SE rear end. Thanks and Keep Up the GREAT Work!

setzep

Everyone is running a custom made one. Most had a whole new drive shaft made from new parts$$ but I know Mike-P-28 had one made from morfing a n/a and a T2 driveshaft together.

Welcome to the club!

-Cam

Firstgen_rx

What length of driveshaft is needed? I know that Coleman Racing makes Driveshafts in steel and also Al. in 1/2" increments which might work. Here is the link:
http://www.colemanracing.com/prodex/...E%20COMPONENTS
What do ya think?

setzep

While you may be able to get a driveshaft from them you'd probably still have to find a way to put the pinion flange on one end and the T2 style spline on the other. Or maybe they can do a custom one? It's about 42.25" from the pinion flange to the spline comming out of the trans.

BadAssRX-7

what do you think? good bad?

setzep

Not bad looking, what turbo are you using?

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

It has never made sense to me for people to run –AN Fuel lines, Bigger Injectors, and then restrict the whole thing using stock Fuel Rails. (By the way, using a -6An line to your rails is actually more restrictive than stock.) It’s the same mentality as putting on a 5” tip on a 2” Exhaust pipe. It won’t flow any more than the narrowest restriction. Your stock rails are that restriction.

If you’re gonna re-do your fuel system, don’t overlook your rails. Putting –AN fittings on stock rails is no help either, do it The Right Way. You need larger injectors, lines, a good pump, and good rails for FUELVOLUME.

Thanks to Crispeed,

Here are what REAL FUEL RAILS look like. The -10AN fittings are welded on, so there will never be a fuel leak problem.

On to the Pics (Sorry, some are old)

Primary Fuel Rail…








This Primary Rail is for an FD, but the Block and Intake is from a Cosmo-RE

Secondary Fuel Rail…









Guess What? He’s selling them as a kit now, and has prepared the final jigs for mass production. If your interested in either Primary, Secondary or both Fuel Rails, give him a PM, and see if he’ll hook you up.

BadAssRX-7

im going to be running a bnr stage 2 upgrded sr5 turbo on a sr 4 block thats gonna have a BIG street port

bcty

ok im doing this now.. cars being put on hold.. dont need panasports just yet.. ok so this is what i got and think i need..

-T2 motor and all sensors + harness
-T2 Tranny - Im useing it anyways
-T2 fuel pump
-FM intercooler
-T2 Fuel system - Might just go Fuel cell and high flow pump
-12A to 13B engine mounts
-Custom tranny mounts
-Custom Driveshaft
-GSL-SE Front Cover - Does this mean i have to use a Dizzy?

And i think i should be good to go!? anything else that i need to get the stockish T2 engine in my car?

thanks!

bcty

oh p.s - where would i mount the FM? i dont know if i should upgrade the rad right away its brand new same with oil cooler.. but i might as well grab it from the new engine.. how should i mount these things and get enough air flow.. keep in mind i have the IMSA front end

bcty

kinda slow in here.. anyways what things do i need to grab off the fenders.. i just have the engine.. i need the ecu i guess the engine harness.. ignitors and coils.. am i forgetting anything? and is it faitly easy to remove a harness off another car? thanks!!

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Sorry bcty, I just got your PM, I have been out of town.

Just mount the FMIC in front of the radiator. The Stock Radiator will be fine. The stock locations for the radiator and Oil Cooler will be fine. However the stock FMIC is pretty wimply, and there are other options available to you for a good price. Most common are the Conquest/Starion intercoolers and the Isuzu NPR truck ones.

The harness is going to be easy to remove, but - do you want to go that route? It will be a wiring nightmare. Especially if it is a 91+ block. What else do you have for your car right now? Do you have an aftermarket carb?

If I didn't have the "pretty" cosmo intake, - I would have gone with an efficient and simple blow-through turbo system.

If you are keen on EFI, use an aftermarket fuel system. Preferably something the local tuners use, so they can tune it for you. Ask around your area.

The only advantage that I see to using the stock TII ECU would be for emissions purposes, but then you would need EVERYTHING from the other car, exhaust, cats, rats nests, etc.

bcty

thanks for the reply... from where i am if i buy a standalone system i have nobody around here that can tune one properly.. so i think i might be outta luck.. i hate this island! I have access to a street and a bridged T2 motor i forget if its a 87 style or 91..

i was thinking about useign the NPR one but do you think it would hold up during a track race? maybe an hour or so?

i was going to drop the whole 13B system into my car a ditch the carb idea.. i love EFI i also have access to a 13B bridged n/a making 350hp for almost nothing so i dunno if i will go that route becuase of streetability then..

well if i used the stock ECU then i could go full3.5" exhaust or just 3" and i can remove lots just not the AFM and junk like that..

so many ideas.. but i love turbo and i think this is the right way.. the mount RB sells i can use that to mount any 13B into my 79 right? i only says for 78-85 years.. anyways thanks for the help..

Tyler

bcty

ok lets talk blow though then for a sec... can i still use my holley 600? or are they not good for the blow though design? is there anyway i can use the stock 13B exhaust manafold with the turbo or do i have to go completely custom? keep in mind i have the FC center housing for a bigger port.. any help here also would be great am I psi limited with the blow through without damaging the carb? i would like to keep it to 10-15 around town so i can rally this thing around without it blowing up sorry for so many questions..

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

The Isuzu NPR is an OUTSTANDING intercooler. You'll be hard pressed to improve upon it without spending a lot more money.

You Even a peripheral port 13B does not put out 350 horses. Are you referring for a bridge with Nitrous?
250 flywheel HP is more realistic.

You could go larger exhaust, Get some boost creep, exceed boost stock boost levels, then the Fuel Cut will hit, and you will blow your engine.

If you use the stock engine ECU, - you NEED to use the stock AFM. Sucks, don't it?

Yes, you could buy the RB one, get an SE one, or just slot your stock 12A one.

Of course you can. It's easily modified for boost. Larger Float bowls are usually required for bigger boost levels.

You can use the stock manifold and Turbo.

Tuning is the key. Proper Fuel, and proper spark, will yield great results. I see 12A Turbos running 22lbs, daily driven. You can blow your engine with 5 lbs if you're stupid.

Please check through all the links in the beginning of this thread, and then do a search for 12A Turbo and Blow Through Turbos. I personally know that alot of detailed writing has been done on the subject with some real good advice thrown in by everybody.

Good luck.

bcty

hey directfreak thanks for all the help.. I think im going to try and do the blow though and if that doesnt live up to what i want then ill try the 13B swap... thanks for all the help awnsering my questions.. one last one..

does anyone make a carb hat for my carb or do i have to do some custom one? thanks!

Tyler

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

K&N makes a "Cold Air" hat which is commonly used in Blow-Through Holley configurations.


If you need your carb modifed/rebuilt, and/or a hat properly made - contact Andre' at mazdaspc@netzero.com
Tell him Alex sent you in the email.

He's also the one that made my Turbo exhaust manifold (if you decide to go with a bigger turbo in the future)

bcty

ok so the blow off valve is mounted before the intercooler closer to the turbo and the fuel pressure riser/regulator is mounted closer to the carb? and should i be looking for a big(er) wastegate for 20psi? i dont see many blow off valves on these turbo setups with carbs is there a reson why? thanks...

Tyler

jonfc3s

iTrader: (3)

Went for a ride in my buddies to4b/holley 670 avenger rx7 yesterday!!!! woooooohoooooo!!!! At 15lbs we did 120mph in third! it was crazy!he is an fc guy though,... but he is going to help me turbo up my gslse,...... going to be sweat! cant wait! keep everyone posted!