Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Okay, It’s been a while since I’ve done an update on my Project Kramer.

Here are the links to the original threads if you're interested.
Original Project Kramer Thread
Second Update with Pics

Since there have been several questions about fuel systems out there, I decided to put a “how to” on my setup for anybody who may have some questions. Towards the end there a few more pics of the rest of the setup.

There’s a hundred different ways to do this, but here’s mine. The hardware I am using here will support more power than I can ever imagine using, so I should not have any fuel concerns ever. I also have a fuel pressure gauge inside the car on the “A” pillar to keep an eye on it as well.

Stock Fuel System in a GSL-SE (under car)


Carefully drain the tank completely, and let it dry. If you have an 84/85 tank, there should be a bolt on the bottom to help expedite this.

Make sure you loosen the Fuel Inlet, or you can't drop the tank.


In case you don't have any power to the fuel filler door (like I did) - Remove the interior panel, and open it manually.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Remove the tank and let it sit outside overnight so all the vapors can dry out, and you won't get headaches by working with it.


Tank Drying out overnight.


These are the Stock GSL-SE Fuel Lines. They have a pretty thick internal diameter. The Feed is about the same as a -10AN line, and the Return about the same as a -6AN line.


Note that the Fuel Feed line and Return both are located within the fuel baffle inside the tank. Nice Thick Diameter lines too.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

This means, that like a surge tank setup - THE BAFFLE WILL ALWAYS BE FULL OF FUEL Because the Return line will always be keeping it topped off.


See where the lines and baffles end up? Again, it will always remain full thanks to the return line going to the same baffle. In other words, - You're not going to run out of fuel. - Woo hoo! This is a picture inside my tank, of the baffles.


This is light surface rust that happened overnight, I cleaned out the tank with the POR-15 product called Metal Ready before putting it back in the car. I was actually surprised by how good it looked for being 17 years old.


Now get 2 steel weld on fittings. One -10AN, and one -6AN to weld onto the stock fuel pick-ups.


Here is how the fittings look when already welded onto the stock fuel pick-up and return.


Here is the "Down the throat" view of the Stock Fuel feed line, with the -10 steel fitting welded on it.


Here is the "Down the throat" view of the Stock Return line, with the -6AN steel fitting welded on it.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Now that you have -AN lines and fittings, it will be much easier to get your fuel lines done and squared away.



Now you have to figure out where are you going to mount your pump and filter(s).

I chose to put it where the stock pump was previously located. Although I placed it on a sheet of aluminum to keep it flat since the bottom of the chassis isn't flat. I also took this opportunity to make sure I put plenty of rubber isolators and spacers to keep noise and vibration to a minimum.

In this picture, the filter was just placed on at the moment (flow going the wrong way), but I was just seeing how it would look at that time.

By mounting it here, it assures that the pump is also gravity fed (as it should be) and it is right next to the rubber grommet where the stock fuel pump wires came out from. (Although I am not using the stock wires, I did want to use the weather resistant grommet)

I decided to mount the Second Fuel Filter (10 Micron Steel Filter Element) before the pump as it should be. I chose to mount it where the stock Fuel Filter used to be located.

I rigged the stock fuel filter holder by cutting it, and then I was able to place a clamp around it. This way it is very secure, and out of the way. I also didn't have to drill any more holes into the car.


Now Make sure you got your Box of goodies, because you're gonna need ‘em.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

I removed all the original stock fuel lines and vent lines (charcoal canister) first, then cleaned this part of the undercarriage with some degreaser first, otherwise your lines will get nasty and filthy in moments.

This will leave you with only one stock hard line running to the rear, - the rear brake line.
You can see it in the picture below, against the frame rail.

Then, prepare your clamps offset against each other down where you're planning to run the fuel lines. If you use the stock clamping locations, just mount them facing each other, sharing the same bolt.


This way, after you run the line and clamp them, it will give a good clean installation look, without having to screw into your frame.

It should look like this, when you run through them later.

The little bit of brown you see under the clamp is the rubber coated stock clamp, I left it on because the bolt location is slightly raised, this way it would screw down completely and secure the line properly.

In case you don’t know how to set up braided fuel lines:

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Now run your lines:















This part is over the rear axle, over the Gas Tank. Note the spare tire section.


View from rear to front.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

This part I had to play with several times to get just right. It's right by the axle so I wanted to keep it as smooth as possible for maximum flow.

The Primary Filter (10 micron) is mounted Vertically.
Then I have to do a 90 to get to the pump, and the Second filter mounted after it..

I ended up having to use a 90 degree fitting on the filter side, and a 45 degree fitting on the pump side. It ended up pretty good.


Crispeed Secondary Fuel Rail (-10AN)


Secondary Fuel Rail installed


Welded Bungs on Intake for Fuel Injectors. No Leaks here…


Line from Secondary Rail to Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator.

Note the -8AN Return line under the Haltech wiring harness.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

NOTE:
Between running Fuel lines, nice oil cooler lines, Turbo Feed, Turbo Return, and Wastegate lines, I ended up using about:
20 feet of -10 braided line,
15 feet or so of -8AN braided line
6 feet or so of -4AN line.
A bunch of connectors and clamps, although I do have leftovers.

Some of it used as follows:

Turbo Oil Feed Line and Oil Cap.


Oil Feed Line


Oil Feed Line within insulated heat sleeve.


Turbo Feed Line again.


Oil Cooler Lines 1
The oil on the floor is from the oil cooler, as I didn't tighten the lines until later.


Oil Cooler Feed Line


Insulated Turbo Oil Return Line


Turbo Oil Return, into front modified GSL-SE front cover.


Down Pipe, before tapping and wrapping.


That’s it for now, I have to pick up the driveshaft, Put the primary fuel rail in, finish the Haltech wiring, and then start the car! Hopefully in January it should be running.

85RX7GS

iTrader: (1)

Very awesome DF. Very cool.

gamble302

lookin good man lookin good
are you gonna get it runnin before or after the widebody?

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Definatley before. The body kit hasn't even arrived yet. I am gonna wait on installing it anyway. It'll take me a little while to finish it right, tune it, put a cage in it, etc.

Right now, almost eveything is in, as a dry fit, so I will need to go over everything once again to make sure all everything is A-ok before firing her up.

Plus, I am gonna need to learn how to drive it all over again.

gamble302

sweeeeet
gonna give mike a run for his money

learn to drive it all over again so true lol. you should go drive a viper with bald tires for a few weeks and you might get used to the power lol

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

Damn. Just that alone looks way out of my league. I have a lot of studying to do before i do mine...

gamble302

we alllll have much to learn daniel sahn

hey df why 3 msd's? and why msd instead of crane or jacobs?

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

Directfreak you rock man I love the palm trees and the green grass, **** man look atthe sky how blue it is...











Oh and the car looks OK

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

Just ******* with ya, it looks awesome

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

You know anything about a s4/s5 igntion system? If you did you wouldnt ask that LOL

The stock uses a waste spark arrangement.. It uses one igniter on leading (they fire at the same time/both L1 and L2 that is) and the trailing uses 2 igniters and they fire at the appropriate times

AJC13B

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

They work better, It's proven to work. It has something the newer boxed (including the newer MSD's) don't have. - DWELL.

Besides, I am not trying to re-invent the wheel, I want it to work the first time out.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

No Steve..

Directfreak to AJC13B

You're the master here. No if's and or buts.

setzep

What a hack......

Eville140

Damn that looks nice.

Only one thing, not knockng you, but good luck keeping 3 MSD boxes all working at the same time.
One is bad enough, My friends and I that all use them pretty much have their address memorized from all the repair work. And we only have one per car.

That reminds me, I need to send back my digital 6 and my buddies msd shift light.

Later
Randy

gamble302

dohhhhhh
guess i should read up on more than the 12a's eh?

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Thanks!

That is another reason why I chose the 6AL's instead of a digital box.

By the way, I was looking, and where did I post pics of the three MSD's in this thread?

gamble302

in your links to the original thread you silly goose