(COOLING/OIL) Replacement O-Ring material for Beehive and Filter Pedestal

 
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Old Apr 15, 2005 | 02:15 AM
  #1  
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(COOLING/OIL) Replacement O-Ring material for Beehive and Filter Pedestal

Not too long back, I remember reading a post about someone that had replaced the O-rings from the beehive or oil filter pedestal (same P/N for both setups). This person had done quite a bit of research on how to determine the original O-ring diameter, as well as what material is best for O-rings that are exposed to oil.

I'd like to know what that material is. I bought two O-rings and crush washers (for the long oil line) for my '82 from a Mazda dealer, and I'd like to take them and use them as templates for finding alternate sources. I didn't feel good about paying $15 when the parts guy dropped 2 washers and 2 O-rings into my hand.

TIA,
Old Apr 15, 2005 | 06:03 AM
  #2  
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I ordered mine from VB. They sure weren't that much and I haven't had any problems since replacing them. I wouldn't worry about it too much because this isn't something you replace at every oil change. They should last you another 20+ years.
Old Apr 15, 2005 | 07:40 AM
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I got mine from homedepot. I brought a pedestal with me. I should have gone to OSH. much cleaner and less crowded. EXCEPT, I cant remember the part # nor the size.
Old Apr 15, 2005 | 11:06 AM
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i went to a local ace hardware and picked up a few o- rings. taking the pedestal is a good idea, i can't recall which ones i picked up, but they worked great.
Old Apr 15, 2005 | 01:25 PM
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11mm ID X 2.5mm width
McMaster Carr #9263K234 for pedestal orings (Viton)
10 pack is 5.73

24 hour delivery is usual
Old Apr 15, 2005 | 02:05 PM
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Most auto part stores have an o-ring box behind the counter. Take your part in and get a ring that doesn't quite fill the machined circle they fit in. The rings need a little space around them to compress and fill the depression.
Old Apr 15, 2005 | 02:13 PM
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OK, I need to clarify a bit. I have the new O-rings in hand, but I'd like, for the general benefit of the 7 community, to source a replacement O-ring that is made of a more durable material.

I looked through the VB catalog (the latest, with the dog-ugly 2nd gen on the cover) and didn't find the O-rings listed.

So, to sum up, I'm waiting for that person who I was originally referring to in the first post to drop by and remind me what the new and improved O-ring material is called.

-dave
Old May 4, 2005 | 01:53 AM
  #8  
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I've just remembered that I wanted to post dimensions on the crush washers and O-rings needed for these repairs.

The crush washers are 13/16" inner diameter, 15/16" outer diameter. The idiot dealer gave me 9/16"ID-13/16"OD washers, which basically cost me an unnecessary oil change and forced me to reuse the old ones until I can get the proper replacements. This, after I looked up and wrote down the proper crush washer from the parts diagram myself, and just brought that in, only to pay $15 for 2 O-rings and 2 washers.

The O-rings appeared to be 5/8"ID-13/16"OD. This wasn't scientific, as I didn't have one of those ring-sizing toys, but it was the best I could do at the time.

If someone could tell me what grade/material of washer is typically used as a crush washer, I'd appreciate it so I know where to go get it.
Old May 4, 2005 | 01:56 AM
  #9  
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From: Mill Creek, WA
Originally Posted by xtrip03
11mm ID X 2.5mm width
McMaster Carr #9263K234 for pedestal orings (Viton)
10 pack is 5.73

24 hour delivery is usual
Sheesh, I never saw this post, which is what I made the thread for in the 1st place. Good job on subscribed thread notifications, forum. Disregard my clumsy (and massively inaccurate) measurement on the O-rings.

Anyhoo, thanks a bunch xtrip03.
Old May 4, 2005 | 08:28 AM
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I posted a "bootleg" method to obtain the size of an o-ring in question. If the old one is still round I just take a set of calipers and measure the o.d. These are the no brainers and you can also get the o.d. or i.d. by measuring the item it went to. The way I get the thickness is then to measure the old flatten thickness of the o-ring which should give you the actual gap of where it has been and then add .5mm to get what it started out as. It was the oblong o-rings that required some thought. When I rebuilt my omp I had to get the size of the o-rings that went on each end. I accomplished this by wrapping a thin piece of paper (I used a page out of the phone book) around the the o-ring and marked the paper to get me the distance around the o-ring. I laid the paper flat and measured the distance with the calipers. I took this number and divide by pie to get the o.d. You can do the same to get the i.d. There was a little guess work but you usually have a little room to play with but I also ordered a couple different sizes. I ordered the o-rings made out of Viton which is a surperior material than the typical buna-n/nitrile.
Old May 4, 2005 | 02:44 PM
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From: alabamer
I walked down to the local el cheapo garage, and matched new air conditioning o-rings to my old ones. I figure if an 0-ring can withstand freon, it can easily withstand hot oil. He was the same guy that flushed the bee hive. He gave me the o-rings gratis.

3000 miles later, they are still good.

$15 huh?
Old May 4, 2005 | 03:17 PM
  #12  
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From: Mill Creek, WA
Originally Posted by speedracer_not
I walked down to the local el cheapo garage, and matched new air conditioning o-rings to my old ones. I figure if an 0-ring can withstand freon, it can easily withstand hot oil. He was the same guy that flushed the bee hive. He gave me the o-rings gratis.

3000 miles later, they are still good.

$15 huh?
Good for you. I'm sure lots of people think oil and freon have similar properties.
 
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