Dave's First gen 20B - a work in progress...
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Dave's First gen 20B - a work in progress...
Hi all,
Since this is the mother forum and has a heap of information on the mighty 20B, I thought I would post a link of my car.
http://ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=199641
Cheers, -Dave.
Since this is the mother forum and has a heap of information on the mighty 20B, I thought I would post a link of my car.
http://ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=199641
Cheers, -Dave.
Last edited by stokrx; 07-28-11 at 06:26 AM.
#4
Full Member
Thread Starter
Well take two...
I decided to post on this forum as its been a wealth of imformation for me, so i'll give a little back
My first car, bought it back in 1995. Still have it to this day. A few things have changed...
It came out on the cover after I put the money on the car!
Converted it to a 13bt in 1998.
Rebuilt the car a few years back, with a colour change.
This year I have decided to take the car in a different direction.
Long block
Stripping down
I decided to post on this forum as its been a wealth of imformation for me, so i'll give a little back
My first car, bought it back in 1995. Still have it to this day. A few things have changed...
It came out on the cover after I put the money on the car!
Converted it to a 13bt in 1998.
Rebuilt the car a few years back, with a colour change.
This year I have decided to take the car in a different direction.
Long block
Stripping down
#5
Full Member
Thread Starter
Cleaning U & LIM
Looking better...
I'll be using a FB 5-speed.
The bottom box extension housing has been shortened 100mm+
Shortening the housing will bring the motor back nice and close to the firewall.
My plan is not to cut the up, but to make everything fit nice and neat.
Looking better...
I'll be using a FB 5-speed.
The bottom box extension housing has been shortened 100mm+
Shortening the housing will bring the motor back nice and close to the firewall.
My plan is not to cut the up, but to make everything fit nice and neat.
#6
Full Member
Thread Starter
I'll post more pic's soon,as Im a bit further along with the conversion. It's quite late down under in Sydney atm. Bed time
Hope you boys like it. Not much info on 20B first gen conversions out there.
Cheers,
-Dave.
Hope you boys like it. Not much info on 20B first gen conversions out there.
Cheers,
-Dave.
#7
Full Member
Thread Starter
Engine and gearbox in car. Shortening the box has moved the engine as far back as possible without cutting the fire wall. Heater hoses both clear as does the oil filter, though it's quite tight.
Working out the height i'll need to make the engine mounts and checking clearence of the oil pick-up.
Oil Pick-up clears the steering linkage.
Working out the height i'll need to make the engine mounts and checking clearence of the oil pick-up.
Oil Pick-up clears the steering linkage.
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#11
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Thread Starter
A few things to note.
I'm running a series 5 water pump.
The motor will be front mounted so I'm using a 12A turbo timing cover.
The gearbox has a custom cross member ( I'll post up a picture soon)
The engine cross member has been reversed to aid in sump clearance. Custom mounts will be grafted onto this.
I'll be running a GT42, with 60mm gate.
Cheers.
I'm running a series 5 water pump.
The motor will be front mounted so I'm using a 12A turbo timing cover.
The gearbox has a custom cross member ( I'll post up a picture soon)
The engine cross member has been reversed to aid in sump clearance. Custom mounts will be grafted onto this.
I'll be running a GT42, with 60mm gate.
Cheers.
#12
Full Member
Thread Starter
Here are a few pictures of the custom S5 gearbox crossmember(yet to be sandblasted and powdercoated)
Another angle.
Spent some time cutting out templates so I can scan them and have them cut out. Not the most exciting picture but making up the template for the sump.
20b waterpump v's S5 waterpump. I was going use the S5 pump, put ater reading https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95/how-cool-20b-right-way-961389/ i'm thinking otherwise. Im leaning toward the 20b waterpump now.
Another angle.
Spent some time cutting out templates so I can scan them and have them cut out. Not the most exciting picture but making up the template for the sump.
20b waterpump v's S5 waterpump. I was going use the S5 pump, put ater reading https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95/how-cool-20b-right-way-961389/ i'm thinking otherwise. Im leaning toward the 20b waterpump now.
#16
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
Thanks for posting pictures here.
I like how far back your engine is. Mine is staying in the stock location so when I break stuff, I can swap in a spare trans and/or driveshaft with no mods.
One piece of advice. You should get some competition motor mounts or hockey pucks. Stockers are too soft for this application.
I've got hockey pucks. Just coming up with a crossmember to mount them now. Hmm, weld or bolt to the frame rails? Channel stock or angle iron?
I like how far back your engine is. Mine is staying in the stock location so when I break stuff, I can swap in a spare trans and/or driveshaft with no mods.
One piece of advice. You should get some competition motor mounts or hockey pucks. Stockers are too soft for this application.
I've got hockey pucks. Just coming up with a crossmember to mount them now. Hmm, weld or bolt to the frame rails? Channel stock or angle iron?
#17
Full Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for posting pictures here.
I like how far back your engine is. Mine is staying in the stock location so when I break stuff, I can swap in a spare trans and/or driveshaft with no mods.
One piece of advice. You should get some competition motor mounts or hockey pucks. Stockers are too soft for this application.
I've got hockey pucks. Just coming up with a crossmember to mount them now. Hmm, weld or bolt to the frame rails? Channel stock or angle iron?
I like how far back your engine is. Mine is staying in the stock location so when I break stuff, I can swap in a spare trans and/or driveshaft with no mods.
One piece of advice. You should get some competition motor mounts or hockey pucks. Stockers are too soft for this application.
I've got hockey pucks. Just coming up with a crossmember to mount them now. Hmm, weld or bolt to the frame rails? Channel stock or angle iron?
Cheers Jeff. Are the hockey puck mounts solid?
I've flipped my crossmember 180deg (able to use the stock oil pick up this way)and have used some 5mm RHS in the style of the stock mounting method. I'll have some pic's up soon one they are finished.
#18
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
I've estimated the pucks are 60% stiffer than stock. I came to this conclusion after reading about Racing Beat's competition motor mounts are advertised as 40% stiffer than stock. I've driven with all three types of motor mounts and the pucks feel like 60% stiffer. That's good enough for me.
I did lots of work to my crossmember. I cut and flipped 180 after the A-arm bolts to keep steering alignment. A lot of people don't realise they are offset a little.
Then for more oil pan clearance I chopped and lowered the center 1.5". Now I can use a high capacity R5 pan and just elongate the shallow end rearward.
Just yesterday I started fabbing a front motor mount crossmember that uses a stock 79 mount bar and hockey pucks. Just needs some triangulation down below the oil pan for greater stiffness. I'll add those pieces today. Still not sure whether to weld to the frame rails or work out a bolt scheme.
I did lots of work to my crossmember. I cut and flipped 180 after the A-arm bolts to keep steering alignment. A lot of people don't realise they are offset a little.
Then for more oil pan clearance I chopped and lowered the center 1.5". Now I can use a high capacity R5 pan and just elongate the shallow end rearward.
Just yesterday I started fabbing a front motor mount crossmember that uses a stock 79 mount bar and hockey pucks. Just needs some triangulation down below the oil pan for greater stiffness. I'll add those pieces today. Still not sure whether to weld to the frame rails or work out a bolt scheme.
#19
Full Member
Thread Starter
I've estimated the pucks are 60% stiffer than stock. I came to this conclusion after reading about Racing Beat's competition motor mounts are advertised as 40% stiffer than stock. I've driven with all three types of motor mounts and the pucks feel like 60% stiffer. That's good enough for me.
I did lots of work to my crossmember. I cut and flipped 180 after the A-arm bolts to keep steering alignment. A lot of people don't realise they are offset a little.
Then for more oil pan clearance I chopped and lowered the center 1.5". Now I can use a high capacity R5 pan and just elongate the shallow end rearward.
Just yesterday I started fabbing a front motor mount crossmember that uses a stock 79 mount bar and hockey pucks. Just needs some triangulation down below the oil pan for greater stiffness. I'll add those pieces today. Still not sure whether to weld to the frame rails or work out a bolt scheme.
I did lots of work to my crossmember. I cut and flipped 180 after the A-arm bolts to keep steering alignment. A lot of people don't realise they are offset a little.
Then for more oil pan clearance I chopped and lowered the center 1.5". Now I can use a high capacity R5 pan and just elongate the shallow end rearward.
Just yesterday I started fabbing a front motor mount crossmember that uses a stock 79 mount bar and hockey pucks. Just needs some triangulation down below the oil pan for greater stiffness. I'll add those pieces today. Still not sure whether to weld to the frame rails or work out a bolt scheme.
#23
Full Member
Thread Starter
Been playing around with the OMP. Going to use a S4 OMP four way oiler with a Rotary Aviation OMP adaptor.
Another idea which will free up a tight space.
Using an RX8 S1 oil pedestal. Just an idea atm...
Another idea which will free up a tight space.
Using an RX8 S1 oil pedestal. Just an idea atm...
#25
Full Member
Thread Starter
Finished the engine crossmember, turned out well I think. The crossmember has been rotated 180deg, the old mounts cut off and RHS 'horns' welded in their place. Triangle supports have been added to the bottom of each 'horn' and side bracing on the engine power side. To be safe the weld around the chassis mounting bolt holes have been seam welded.
View of the 'horn' supports
The exhaust flange has been cut, 15mm thickness.
Exhaust manifold is next on the list...
View of the 'horn' supports
The exhaust flange has been cut, 15mm thickness.
Exhaust manifold is next on the list...