Hi all,

Since this is the mother forum and has a heap of information on the mighty 20B, I thought I would post a link of my car.

http://ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=199641


Cheers, -Dave.

 

we need to be members of that site to look...

 

Please post your pics and info here so we all can see it. Thanks.

 

Well take two...

I decided to post on this forum as its been a wealth of imformation for me, so i'll give a little back

My first car, bought it back in 1995. Still have it to this day. A few things have changed...

It came out on the cover after I put the money on the car!



Converted it to a 13bt in 1998.

Rebuilt the car a few years back, with a colour change.










This year I have decided to take the car in a different direction.

Long block


Stripping down

 

Cleaning U & LIM




Looking better...




I'll be using a FB 5-speed.

The bottom box extension housing has been shortened 100mm+




Shortening the housing will bring the motor back nice and close to the firewall.

My plan is not to cut the up, but to make everything fit nice and neat.

 

I'll post more pic's soon,as Im a bit further along with the conversion. It's quite late down under in Sydney atm. Bed time


Hope you boys like it. Not much info on 20B first gen conversions out there.

Cheers,

-Dave.

 

Engine and gearbox in car. Shortening the box has moved the engine as far back as possible without cutting the fire wall. Heater hoses both clear as does the oil filter, though it's quite tight.




Working out the height i'll need to make the engine mounts and checking clearence of the oil pick-up.




Oil Pick-up clears the steering linkage.

 

Cut the exhaust flange out of cork! Just to test the water cutter out

 

My Stainless steel gauge cluster rings, just to give the first gen an old school look

 

PWR twin pass radiator and 3000cfm spal fan, not mounted yet. Should keep the 20B cool. I hope.

 

A few things to note.

I'm running a series 5 water pump.

The motor will be front mounted so I'm using a 12A turbo timing cover.

The gearbox has a custom cross member ( I'll post up a picture soon)

The engine cross member has been reversed to aid in sump clearance. Custom mounts will be grafted onto this.

I'll be running a GT42, with 60mm gate.

Cheers.

 

Here are a few pictures of the custom S5 gearbox crossmember(yet to be sandblasted and powdercoated)





Another angle.




Spent some time cutting out templates so I can scan them and have them cut out. Not the most exciting picture but making up the template for the sump.



20b waterpump v's S5 waterpump. I was going use the S5 pump, put ater reading https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95/how-cool-20b-right-way-961389/ i'm thinking otherwise. Im leaning toward the 20b waterpump now.

 

Looking great

That kind of power in a car that light will be pretty incredible

 

Very nice indeed. Keep it up.

 

Very clean car! I love the paint job I've recently been leaning towards a similar project. I'll be keeping close tabs on this..

 

Thanks for posting pictures here.

I like how far back your engine is. Mine is staying in the stock location so when I break stuff, I can swap in a spare trans and/or driveshaft with no mods.

One piece of advice. You should get some competition motor mounts or hockey pucks. Stockers are too soft for this application.

I've got hockey pucks. Just coming up with a crossmember to mount them now. Hmm, weld or bolt to the frame rails? Channel stock or angle iron?

 

Cheers Jeff. Are the hockey puck mounts solid?

I've flipped my crossmember 180deg (able to use the stock oil pick up this way)and have used some 5mm RHS in the style of the stock mounting method. I'll have some pic's up soon one they are finished.

 

I've estimated the pucks are 60% stiffer than stock. I came to this conclusion after reading about Racing Beat's competition motor mounts are advertised as 40% stiffer than stock. I've driven with all three types of motor mounts and the pucks feel like 60% stiffer. That's good enough for me.

I did lots of work to my crossmember. I cut and flipped 180 after the A-arm bolts to keep steering alignment. A lot of people don't realise they are offset a little.

Then for more oil pan clearance I chopped and lowered the center 1.5". Now I can use a high capacity R5 pan and just elongate the shallow end rearward.

Just yesterday I started fabbing a front motor mount crossmember that uses a stock 79 mount bar and hockey pucks. Just needs some triangulation down below the oil pan for greater stiffness. I'll add those pieces today. Still not sure whether to weld to the frame rails or work out a bolt scheme.

 

Sounds good Jeff. Do you have a build thread, would love to see some pics?

 

No build thread. Been too busy. I wonder if I should start one?

By the way I haven't seen it mentioned in your thread yet: Are you going NA or boosted?

 

Forced induction

GT42




Would Love to see a build thread Jeff!!

 

Nice! That's the turbo I was looking at. Then rememebred I have a pre-letter engine, so it supposedly has the weak shaft and castings. So if I boost it, I'll keep the boost low. No need for an expensive turbo. So I got a cx racing T72.

 

Been playing around with the OMP. Going to use a S4 OMP four way oiler with a Rotary Aviation OMP adaptor.




Another idea which will free up a tight space.

Using an RX8 S1 oil pedestal. Just an idea atm...

 

I like the OMP idea too. All I have right now is one from an RE-SI which should be the same as GSL-SE and 12A turbo. I'd like to get an S4 T2 unit because they should provide more flow, but I'll use what I have for now and premix.

 

Finished the engine crossmember, turned out well I think. The crossmember has been rotated 180deg, the old mounts cut off and RHS 'horns' welded in their place. Triangle supports have been added to the bottom of each 'horn' and side bracing on the engine power side. To be safe the weld around the chassis mounting bolt holes have been seam welded.



View of the 'horn' supports




The exhaust flange has been cut, 15mm thickness.




Exhaust manifold is next on the list...