JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Im buiding a Goopy motor that will be daily dirven for 10k miles and disassembled. I will record my findings.
Details to come..

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I hope the first detail is the definition of "Goopy motor".

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

cool story

FC_fan

iTrader: (2)

using all goopy brand parts internally I assume. I hear their apex seals are "unbreakable" and can take serious abuse but wear out the housings prematurely as RA seals do.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Where is there proof of these seals wearing out the housings? This will be part of my findings. The housing will be resurfaced to see what really happens.

FC_fan

iTrader: (2)

sorry, didn't realize you were the guy from the other rebuild thread. what did the guys at goopy say about there seals? I haven't heard a lot about the goopy apex seals and haven't seen proof of wear, just here say. I'm not saying your housings will be junk after 30k miles, just that I [I]heard[I] they put more wear over the long run. I know that the RA apex seals seem to put some wear on the housings compared to OEM and heard goopy seals were similar. If the guys at goopy give you a green light to use them in a street motor then they must be ok though. make sure to tell them you will be taking the motor apart to check wearing and stuff. they won't steer you wrong when their reputation is on the line (if they are a decent company anyway which I think they are).

another thing, I didn't realize anyone resurfaced rotor housings, do they re chrome them? you do mean the housings and not the side irons right?

D Walker

iTrader: (1)

Housings resurfaced with pics here: https://www.rx7club.com/good-businesses-233/goopy-performance-new-york-930894/

Engine I just built and ran here: https://www.rx7club.com/general-rotary-tech-support-11/fd-motor-built-goopy-parts-938228/

Street 13BT engine built here, starting it as soon as the wiring etc is sorted:
https://www.rx7club.com/general-rotary-tech-support-11/13bt-engine-build-goopy-parts-937180/

I would love to know who said the Goopy seals "destroyed" housings. Everything I have seen/read/heard shows them to be extremely kind to the housings. I will however vouch for them being very durable, as my engine ran this weekend and was overboosting quite a bit the first two runs. I *may* tear the race engine down in the next week or so as there is no event until Feb20 and post pics of what I find.

bumpstart

have an apex seal set on the way for a 12a bridge i will be doing shortly
and the reason they get the nod is due to the oversize option for worn slots
mazda apex seals would cost a little more ,, and never will seal well or do housings chatter favours if used in a worn slot

i must say as feedback from the owner of the engine i will be putting back together
goopy where very keen and interested in the where and whens and whos, and cut a good deal
and where prompt in getting their end of the deal into shipping

- lets hope the various postal and customs services are just as prompt

$$ for $$ they are very competitive with other options more local to oz , wake up aussie !

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

I dropped off my housings, irons, rotors and a few other misc. things.
Housings, media blasted and resurfaced.
Irons, media blasted, modified, and painted.
Rotors cleaned, and new bearings installed.
E-shaft cleaned up.
Ill be using his apex, and street corner seals, and oring kit.
As per both Ito and John I'm just gonna leave the ports alone.
I told John to take his time, he has alot of work todo, as do I. Even so he said everything should be done by the end of next week. Im pumped. Not to mention he beat all of RA's prices even with the machining thats to be done.
I have a bunch of goodys coming from Pineapple tomorrow, I'm excited. lol Ill be posting pics and info of all progress of the build and parts.
My tear is documented here.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/blew-my-first-motor-936959/

FC_fan

iTrader: (2)

good info on goopy, I guess they are another decent option for apex seals it seems.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Nobody in the states are running these in a street car, just racing. John told me there are tons of people in PR driving these on the street.
As fars as anyone knows there is no data on these seals past a year of racing.
I hope to change this and get some more definative answers.
Thanks,
James

rx71king

iTrader: (6)

i met jon like 5 year ago really cool guy...devoted to promoting his parts and seals.....he has vary good ideas.....i love my 12a.. so i am a little nervous to use his seals . i only have 2 pairs of rotor housing lift...so i would like to hear some feedback on street engines...

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

So I spoke to Ito at his shop for an hour and a half yesterday discussing the benifits this expeiriment will provide for the community amoung other things. He told me not be marketing/advertising any product w/o some sort of compensation for my R&D(Im not in it for money). So my findings will be, some what discreate. Unless I find some sort of sort of revolution that will change the way us "regular" rotorheads build our "street" motors, please remember his products are primarily just dragged in 800-900hp vehicles there is no data collected on his products in a street driven vehicle, even tho John says there are a ton of people streeting them in PR I would still like some documentation.

Let me just say, I spoke with Johnathan yesreday for hours and he showed me some **** thats done no where in the counrty or world. Some of the machining stuff he does is unbelievible. He was in no way trying to push his products on me, he offered me numerous options on pretty much every thing that needs replacement. He is a very very nice man, I brought my whole motor there basically he rechecked everything in front of me and let me know what he thought he was actually right on with everything Ito had told me. NOT to mention with all his machining to be done and a full rebuild kit everything is still cheaper then all the competitors W/O machining done. Im real excited about this So hopefully with every buddys support we can change the rotary game for everones benifiet.Let me know what you guys think.
Thanks,
James

bumpstart

+1 will be doing this build by the book and hoping to get into corresponds with jon soon re-gards to lube rates and final tolerances after using the oversize seals
the engine will be for street use though not a daily driver
am expecting getting the slot tolerances back to stock or better is going to give gains that are not found in your average 12a rebuild now-days
i must say , the recommend to use mazda springs brought much better confidence to me that the mass isnt so far out from stock

i wonder if perth is as far as a set of goopys have travelled

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

I'm sure that is the farthest his seals have traveled, being most of his business is PR. I think it's awsome the Aussies are getting in to his market. Hopefully, you turn more people on to his products. Being you guys and the puerto ricans are on top of the rotary game we should see great progress.
James

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

a little progress over the last few days and my pineapple parts came in.
here some pix

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

more pix

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Cleaned the manifolds and front cover and did some more UIM porting. also snapped pix of my S4-FD UIM adaptor, which still needs to be cleaned and have some more porting done. My next tasks are sending out the injectors for cleaning and resurfacing the flywheel.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

As per john I should run a FD oil pressure regulator and only put one shim in the front. Any thoughts on this?
James

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

i used a small shim in the front(1mm) and crushed my FC regulator a bit. resulted in a 5-10psi increase over stock.

bumpstart

front reg is rated to lift past 140 psi to prevent oil cooler fail
and personally dont see the need to mod it in any way even with FD rear reg ( 110 psi )

myself only mod rear regs and aim for 90 psi system pressure ( stock is 70 psi )
rear reg mod i do involves welding a threaded nut to the end of it and then using a bolt and locking nut wound into it to adjust the tension to desired levels

this one is user adjustable by removing the sump

=============

be-wary with winding in or crushing too much as when you get into that 110- 140 psi region its not just the front reg that will lift
the fail may well come at the oil filter pedestal O rings or much worse along the block oil passage dowel

while not every motor needs a lift in the cooling and oiling potential of higher oil pressure
i do usually insist on the washer mod for the thermal bypass crank pellet

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

the front regulater upon disassembly was never modded and the rear regulator I had in there is an unknown unit. John recommended me so swith to an unmodified FD regulator and put one shim in the front and stated it should cause oil pressure to be around 90psi. Was just gonna crush my old one but he said I dont know which ones in there so I should replace it. I also am swapping the thermal pellet.
What u think?
James

D Walker

iTrader: (1)

Thats pretty much my setup- FD pressure relief, Atkins (or someones) billet pellet eliminator, but I have not shimmes the front relief. I do think you need to be careful of too much oil pressure but thats a nice middle of the road setup.
Not a fan of crushing really, its easy to do more harm than good unless your setup like Pineapple or others with all the right tools etc.

Bumpstart I would love to see a pic or two of your relief valve mod. If it is done the way I am thinking I have had that same idea and wondered if it could be done easily.

HAILERS2

So maybe you can help us out here. Why in the world would own shim up a pressure control relief valve in the front cover that unseats at 156 psi? See book.

The rear housing Pressure Control Valve controls at 71 psi (see book)............so some of out here in the wilderness would have thought THAT would be the regulator that a person would alter if he wanted to boost the pressure above 71 psi.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Shimming the front regulator is to prevent early venting to allow for the higher pressure to build
stated in the end of this video created by pineapple, they recommend 2 shims.
http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.c..._Oil_Regulator