The Monsterbox 4 Rotor
02-15-17, 06:42 PM
#1027
Z, I don't think straight gears will mean much for stock transmission because the real problem is increased spacing between the input and output shaft with case flex under load, which sears the gear teeth which spread the furthest when the transmission case flex--the third gear. I've done 2 things to potentially alleviate this:
1. I am resting the transmission tail on welded cross member. I thought PPF will add to case flex under load.
2. ebay oil pan which looked thicker.
I put about 200 miles on this setup. Car's finally alive with haltech as of yesterday, so I will be able to test it more.
My next goal is to monitor gear box temp... I don't think any of us know how high FD gear box temperature gets after a few runs when putting 800whp+ through it. I also noticed that I usually break the box when I'm doing multiple pulls sequentially. I really hope the culprit is the transmission oil temp... because that's an easy fix haltech--just limit rpm and boost when temp is high.
HGT is coming out with 1000ft-lb sequential monster soon they say. The current box costs $13k with absolutely everything we need for swap--although you can use your clutch which technically saves you $2k. I'm sure the new box will cost more. It's still bit too expensive for me. I also don't like the gear whine.
I personally like the T56magnum swap because it's proven, and I know it'll handle launches with slicks on... let's face it... most of our pulls in boost are in a straight line lol. the cost of that is $11k with everything, and you need a new proprietary SPEC clutch which I don't like. I also don't like how t56 shifts--it's little notchy. It's also much fatter and heavier transmission which I don't like... seems I would've done better if I swapped in a rotary into a z07 at this point.
Liberty shafts sound promising but they no longer make 300m shafts. They now make the 4000 series steel shafts for cost reasons ($150 cheaper). I don't like it... not enough to put $1500 into rebuild option. This is the cheapest meaningful upgrade I think.
350/370z box is an option but with all the fab costs, it starts going beyond 5k mark pretty quickly. I personally don't like it because I don't like the idea of cutting the bellhousing off transmission... I know my limits with my angle grinder and chances are that it definitely won't be bolt-on for me lol.
I think most of us are looking for $5k bullet-proof option with everything included. 10k is pretty ridiculous... while I'm optimistic that there are more options now, I still feel we're paying the rotary tax very heavily for the same quality other car people get for much less. so I'm going to wait and sit with my backyard upgrades.
1. I am resting the transmission tail on welded cross member. I thought PPF will add to case flex under load.
2. ebay oil pan which looked thicker.
I put about 200 miles on this setup. Car's finally alive with haltech as of yesterday, so I will be able to test it more.
My next goal is to monitor gear box temp... I don't think any of us know how high FD gear box temperature gets after a few runs when putting 800whp+ through it. I also noticed that I usually break the box when I'm doing multiple pulls sequentially. I really hope the culprit is the transmission oil temp... because that's an easy fix haltech--just limit rpm and boost when temp is high.
HGT is coming out with 1000ft-lb sequential monster soon they say. The current box costs $13k with absolutely everything we need for swap--although you can use your clutch which technically saves you $2k. I'm sure the new box will cost more. It's still bit too expensive for me. I also don't like the gear whine.
I personally like the T56magnum swap because it's proven, and I know it'll handle launches with slicks on... let's face it... most of our pulls in boost are in a straight line lol. the cost of that is $11k with everything, and you need a new proprietary SPEC clutch which I don't like. I also don't like how t56 shifts--it's little notchy. It's also much fatter and heavier transmission which I don't like... seems I would've done better if I swapped in a rotary into a z07 at this point.
Liberty shafts sound promising but they no longer make 300m shafts. They now make the 4000 series steel shafts for cost reasons ($150 cheaper). I don't like it... not enough to put $1500 into rebuild option. This is the cheapest meaningful upgrade I think.
350/370z box is an option but with all the fab costs, it starts going beyond 5k mark pretty quickly. I personally don't like it because I don't like the idea of cutting the bellhousing off transmission... I know my limits with my angle grinder and chances are that it definitely won't be bolt-on for me lol.
I think most of us are looking for $5k bullet-proof option with everything included. 10k is pretty ridiculous... while I'm optimistic that there are more options now, I still feel we're paying the rotary tax very heavily for the same quality other car people get for much less. so I'm going to wait and sit with my backyard upgrades.
02-15-17, 06:49 PM
#1028
another thing, as you know, you need to break about 20 stock transmissions to make the upgrade worth while right now... and that's assuming that the upgraded heavier/bulkier transmission never breaks. doesn't make much sense to me.
I still feel that $5k bullet proof option is out there--all we need is t56 with custom bellhousing for our rear iron and starter, and custom input shaft to fit our pilot bearing. Let the buyer worry about mounting it to the frame and relocating the shifter because that's different for everyone.
hell just sell me the bellhousing and the custom t56 300m input shaft for $1500-2000. everyone rebuilds t56 locally unlike our transmission for much cheaper. I think liberty should make that kit instead, but they won't.
I still feel that $5k bullet proof option is out there--all we need is t56 with custom bellhousing for our rear iron and starter, and custom input shaft to fit our pilot bearing. Let the buyer worry about mounting it to the frame and relocating the shifter because that's different for everyone.
hell just sell me the bellhousing and the custom t56 300m input shaft for $1500-2000. everyone rebuilds t56 locally unlike our transmission for much cheaper. I think liberty should make that kit instead, but they won't.
Last edited by stickmantijuana; 02-15-17 at 07:10 PM.
02-18-17, 07:28 PM
#1029
why not consider a liberty built tko600. This one is faceplated 1 through to 4th syncro 5th.GreenBrothers steel bellhousing and shifter extension to fit factory fc and fd consoles. Should be able to be done for under 5g usd can have it upgraded syncros etc if that way inclined pretty proven setup
02-18-17, 09:39 PM
#1031
Thank you for the feedback guys,
All those options looks great.
Regarding the sequential transmission, I've been talking the past few days with a dealer in the USA about the HGT Precision. Its looking better and better by the minute. If we go with the HGT they are actually working on making a new tailshaft unit to bolt right on the PPF, they claim it will be ready in a few weeks, and we could be the first to try it. They've also showed me a mocked up transmission using an adapter plate and a manual rx7 bellhousing. The tranmissions can be had with a billet bellhousing, which will work with the manual rear iron, but is only designed for push type clutches using their hydro slave unit. The cool thing is that now, with the adapter plate, you can use the FD bellhousing and keep the exact same clutch fork, and throw out bearing, nothing has to be changed, and utilize the manual starter, and input shaft.
In a few weeks the tailshaft will be available and then its literally a bolt in-unit. The only modification needed would be a custom driveshaft.
Also, interestingly, this transmission uses press-fit straight cut gears, rather than slide-on. For some reason, this allows much less backlash in the setup which makes it a 10th of the noise of other leading brands IE Hollinger, Quiafe etc
The HGT is rated to 700ft/lbs on paper, but they have a twin turbo LSX engine making over 1000ftlbs running one with no issues.
The other upside is that with the lesser backlash and lower DIN rating, they claim its no issue on the street, alot of time before needing maintenance. Because of the ways its shifted, they explained that it basically either shifts or doesn't shift, there's no time interval by which to wear out the dogs like an H pattern.
Tranmission comes with adjustable shifter arms to position where you want the shifter to come through the trans tunnel, can shift in 35 miliseconds, and is available in 4 5 and 6 speeds
The only "downside" I can see is that the max gears are always 1:1. There's no overdrive available. So if you went with the 6 speed, the car would be an absolute mental rocketship, but I bet with the amount of power it has, it may actually be slower in some instances because of the necessity to shift with 6 gears in such close order. Unless the ring and pinion was changed out its probably best to just run the 4 speed or 5 speed unit. It looks like with the rear end gear in the car now, 1:1 would give over 170mph, which is plenty for now.
Anyhow,
Plan for now is get the fuel system squared up (I'm going to stick a regulator on the surge tank overflow to add 10-15psi to the surge which should prevent any an all cavitation from fuel heat) and might switch over to twin AEM 380 pumps, just because the fuelab is so damn noisy. Then contemplating sneaking a 3rd oil cooler, 15 row, in behind the license plate in the noise, so that I can remove the plate on the track for airflow and to help oil temps a tad. They are mighty high around 200-210 in heat and slow moving on road. Does not drop until after about 60mph for a good 5 mins or so...this isn't really bad at all but I like overkill. Also adding a fan to one of the oil coolers, and then need to do the front splitter and ducting
So far we have a huge piece of high density poly ethylene to make the front splitter out of, was planning to use the common alumalite, but looking at HDPE is looks more forgiving to bumps scratches.
After all that is squared away, then its time for retune on the dyno. Hopefully if we are careful and with lots of praying and finesse, the stock trans will let us max out the turbo in 4th gear.
After the car checks off on all check marks, fuel, ignition, tune, and temperatures, then if the HGT kit is finalized by that date, the order will be placed likely for 4 speed or 5 speed. From there it really just needs stronger axles, and big brake kit and she's 110%
Still can't say how thankful I am to Walker and those who believed in us through the past issues. Thing is a totally different car. It just sounds so completely different. Even the idle and free rev are entirely different sounds. Oil pump is holding up great, no shaft leaks, and rock solid 125+psi oil pressure from 4k and up. The relief is unbelievable. Hopefully all of it holds together to the last step of tuning. So far on quick WOT blasts up to 5k, the boost comes on much smoother/lazier from the bigger area ratio, and seems to hold just fine at 7psi spring pressure; we will know more once we open it up on the dyno.
All those options looks great.
Regarding the sequential transmission, I've been talking the past few days with a dealer in the USA about the HGT Precision. Its looking better and better by the minute. If we go with the HGT they are actually working on making a new tailshaft unit to bolt right on the PPF, they claim it will be ready in a few weeks, and we could be the first to try it. They've also showed me a mocked up transmission using an adapter plate and a manual rx7 bellhousing. The tranmissions can be had with a billet bellhousing, which will work with the manual rear iron, but is only designed for push type clutches using their hydro slave unit. The cool thing is that now, with the adapter plate, you can use the FD bellhousing and keep the exact same clutch fork, and throw out bearing, nothing has to be changed, and utilize the manual starter, and input shaft.
In a few weeks the tailshaft will be available and then its literally a bolt in-unit. The only modification needed would be a custom driveshaft.
Also, interestingly, this transmission uses press-fit straight cut gears, rather than slide-on. For some reason, this allows much less backlash in the setup which makes it a 10th of the noise of other leading brands IE Hollinger, Quiafe etc
The HGT is rated to 700ft/lbs on paper, but they have a twin turbo LSX engine making over 1000ftlbs running one with no issues.
The other upside is that with the lesser backlash and lower DIN rating, they claim its no issue on the street, alot of time before needing maintenance. Because of the ways its shifted, they explained that it basically either shifts or doesn't shift, there's no time interval by which to wear out the dogs like an H pattern.
Tranmission comes with adjustable shifter arms to position where you want the shifter to come through the trans tunnel, can shift in 35 miliseconds, and is available in 4 5 and 6 speeds
The only "downside" I can see is that the max gears are always 1:1. There's no overdrive available. So if you went with the 6 speed, the car would be an absolute mental rocketship, but I bet with the amount of power it has, it may actually be slower in some instances because of the necessity to shift with 6 gears in such close order. Unless the ring and pinion was changed out its probably best to just run the 4 speed or 5 speed unit. It looks like with the rear end gear in the car now, 1:1 would give over 170mph, which is plenty for now.
Anyhow,
Plan for now is get the fuel system squared up (I'm going to stick a regulator on the surge tank overflow to add 10-15psi to the surge which should prevent any an all cavitation from fuel heat) and might switch over to twin AEM 380 pumps, just because the fuelab is so damn noisy. Then contemplating sneaking a 3rd oil cooler, 15 row, in behind the license plate in the noise, so that I can remove the plate on the track for airflow and to help oil temps a tad. They are mighty high around 200-210 in heat and slow moving on road. Does not drop until after about 60mph for a good 5 mins or so...this isn't really bad at all but I like overkill. Also adding a fan to one of the oil coolers, and then need to do the front splitter and ducting
So far we have a huge piece of high density poly ethylene to make the front splitter out of, was planning to use the common alumalite, but looking at HDPE is looks more forgiving to bumps scratches.
After all that is squared away, then its time for retune on the dyno. Hopefully if we are careful and with lots of praying and finesse, the stock trans will let us max out the turbo in 4th gear.
After the car checks off on all check marks, fuel, ignition, tune, and temperatures, then if the HGT kit is finalized by that date, the order will be placed likely for 4 speed or 5 speed. From there it really just needs stronger axles, and big brake kit and she's 110%
Still can't say how thankful I am to Walker and those who believed in us through the past issues. Thing is a totally different car. It just sounds so completely different. Even the idle and free rev are entirely different sounds. Oil pump is holding up great, no shaft leaks, and rock solid 125+psi oil pressure from 4k and up. The relief is unbelievable. Hopefully all of it holds together to the last step of tuning. So far on quick WOT blasts up to 5k, the boost comes on much smoother/lazier from the bigger area ratio, and seems to hold just fine at 7psi spring pressure; we will know more once we open it up on the dyno.
Last edited by Monsterbox; 02-18-17 at 09:53 PM.
02-18-17, 11:44 PM
#1032
Quite the accomplishment thus far. Have you also considered the 8.8 rear if you're going to all of the transmission effort? I'm not sure when the FD rears let go, but I know the 8.8 rear will give you far more ratio options and differential choices.
02-19-17, 12:58 AM
#1033
Definitely would consider it in the future. I do believe the current diff should sustain the power on a track, but not drag racing/launching. Currently using the Carbonetic 1.5 in the stock case, and it seems to be pretty beastly. Probably could use axles though.
Good thing is, a buddy of mine as found a 3.2 gear from a mazda truck that will fit, and also the 3.9 auto would give us over 180 at full rpm
02-19-17, 01:32 AM
#1034
People have laid down plenty of single digit passes on prepped stock diffs with nice axle's etc. The main problem is limited gearing selections. Also, when you ditch the PPF because of a transmission swap, a new cradle and new diff seem more logical.
All that power and a 3.2, tho. I dunno...Need one of those HPP 2in1 cradle/braces to keep the case in one piece.
All that power and a 3.2, tho. I dunno...Need one of those HPP 2in1 cradle/braces to keep the case in one piece.
02-19-17, 02:07 PM
#1037
People have laid down plenty of single digit passes on prepped stock diffs with nice axle's etc. The main problem is limited gearing selections. Also, when you ditch the PPF because of a transmission swap, a new cradle and new diff seem more logical.
All that power and a 3.2, tho. I dunno...Need one of those HPP 2in1 cradle/braces to keep the case in one piece.
All that power and a 3.2, tho. I dunno...Need one of those HPP 2in1 cradle/braces to keep the case in one piece.
02-20-17, 11:01 AM
#1039
02-23-17, 07:12 PM
#1040
Thank you for the feedback guys,
All those options looks great.
Regarding the sequential transmission, I've been talking the past few days with a dealer in the USA about the HGT Precision. Its looking better and better by the minute. If we go with the HGT they are actually working on making a new tailshaft unit to bolt right on the PPF, they claim it will be ready in a few weeks, and we could be the first to try it. They've also showed me a mocked up transmission using an adapter plate and a manual rx7 bellhousing. The tranmissions can be had with a billet bellhousing, which will work with the manual rear iron, but is only designed for push type clutches using their hydro slave unit. The cool thing is that now, with the adapter plate, you can use the FD bellhousing and keep the exact same clutch fork, and throw out bearing, nothing has to be changed, and utilize the manual starter, and input shaft.
In a few weeks the tailshaft will be available and then its literally a bolt in-unit. The only modification needed would be a custom driveshaft.
Also, interestingly, this transmission uses press-fit straight cut gears, rather than slide-on. For some reason, this allows much less backlash in the setup which makes it a 10th of the noise of other leading brands IE Hollinger, Quiafe etc
The HGT is rated to 700ft/lbs on paper, but they have a twin turbo LSX engine making over 1000ftlbs running one with no issues.
The other upside is that with the lesser backlash and lower DIN rating, they claim its no issue on the street, alot of time before needing maintenance. Because of the ways its shifted, they explained that it basically either shifts or doesn't shift, there's no time interval by which to wear out the dogs like an H pattern.
Tranmission comes with adjustable shifter arms to position where you want the shifter to come through the trans tunnel, can shift in 35 miliseconds, and is available in 4 5 and 6 speeds
The only "downside" I can see is that the max gears are always 1:1. There's no overdrive available. So if you went with the 6 speed, the car would be an absolute mental rocketship, but I bet with the amount of power it has, it may actually be slower in some instances because of the necessity to shift with 6 gears in such close order. Unless the ring and pinion was changed out its probably best to just run the 4 speed or 5 speed unit. It looks like with the rear end gear in the car now, 1:1 would give over 170mph, which is plenty for now.
Anyhow,
Plan for now is get the fuel system squared up (I'm going to stick a regulator on the surge tank overflow to add 10-15psi to the surge which should prevent any an all cavitation from fuel heat) and might switch over to twin AEM 380 pumps, just because the fuelab is so damn noisy. Then contemplating sneaking a 3rd oil cooler, 15 row, in behind the license plate in the noise, so that I can remove the plate on the track for airflow and to help oil temps a tad. They are mighty high around 200-210 in heat and slow moving on road. Does not drop until after about 60mph for a good 5 mins or so...this isn't really bad at all but I like overkill. Also adding a fan to one of the oil coolers, and then need to do the front splitter and ducting
So far we have a huge piece of high density poly ethylene to make the front splitter out of, was planning to use the common alumalite, but looking at HDPE is looks more forgiving to bumps scratches.
After all that is squared away, then its time for retune on the dyno. Hopefully if we are careful and with lots of praying and finesse, the stock trans will let us max out the turbo in 4th gear.
After the car checks off on all check marks, fuel, ignition, tune, and temperatures, then if the HGT kit is finalized by that date, the order will be placed likely for 4 speed or 5 speed. From there it really just needs stronger axles, and big brake kit and she's 110%
Still can't say how thankful I am to Walker and those who believed in us through the past issues. Thing is a totally different car. It just sounds so completely different. Even the idle and free rev are entirely different sounds. Oil pump is holding up great, no shaft leaks, and rock solid 125+psi oil pressure from 4k and up. The relief is unbelievable. Hopefully all of it holds together to the last step of tuning. So far on quick WOT blasts up to 5k, the boost comes on much smoother/lazier from the bigger area ratio, and seems to hold just fine at 7psi spring pressure; we will know more once we open it up on the dyno.
All those options looks great.
Regarding the sequential transmission, I've been talking the past few days with a dealer in the USA about the HGT Precision. Its looking better and better by the minute. If we go with the HGT they are actually working on making a new tailshaft unit to bolt right on the PPF, they claim it will be ready in a few weeks, and we could be the first to try it. They've also showed me a mocked up transmission using an adapter plate and a manual rx7 bellhousing. The tranmissions can be had with a billet bellhousing, which will work with the manual rear iron, but is only designed for push type clutches using their hydro slave unit. The cool thing is that now, with the adapter plate, you can use the FD bellhousing and keep the exact same clutch fork, and throw out bearing, nothing has to be changed, and utilize the manual starter, and input shaft.
In a few weeks the tailshaft will be available and then its literally a bolt in-unit. The only modification needed would be a custom driveshaft.
Also, interestingly, this transmission uses press-fit straight cut gears, rather than slide-on. For some reason, this allows much less backlash in the setup which makes it a 10th of the noise of other leading brands IE Hollinger, Quiafe etc
The HGT is rated to 700ft/lbs on paper, but they have a twin turbo LSX engine making over 1000ftlbs running one with no issues.
The other upside is that with the lesser backlash and lower DIN rating, they claim its no issue on the street, alot of time before needing maintenance. Because of the ways its shifted, they explained that it basically either shifts or doesn't shift, there's no time interval by which to wear out the dogs like an H pattern.
Tranmission comes with adjustable shifter arms to position where you want the shifter to come through the trans tunnel, can shift in 35 miliseconds, and is available in 4 5 and 6 speeds
The only "downside" I can see is that the max gears are always 1:1. There's no overdrive available. So if you went with the 6 speed, the car would be an absolute mental rocketship, but I bet with the amount of power it has, it may actually be slower in some instances because of the necessity to shift with 6 gears in such close order. Unless the ring and pinion was changed out its probably best to just run the 4 speed or 5 speed unit. It looks like with the rear end gear in the car now, 1:1 would give over 170mph, which is plenty for now.
Anyhow,
Plan for now is get the fuel system squared up (I'm going to stick a regulator on the surge tank overflow to add 10-15psi to the surge which should prevent any an all cavitation from fuel heat) and might switch over to twin AEM 380 pumps, just because the fuelab is so damn noisy. Then contemplating sneaking a 3rd oil cooler, 15 row, in behind the license plate in the noise, so that I can remove the plate on the track for airflow and to help oil temps a tad. They are mighty high around 200-210 in heat and slow moving on road. Does not drop until after about 60mph for a good 5 mins or so...this isn't really bad at all but I like overkill. Also adding a fan to one of the oil coolers, and then need to do the front splitter and ducting
So far we have a huge piece of high density poly ethylene to make the front splitter out of, was planning to use the common alumalite, but looking at HDPE is looks more forgiving to bumps scratches.
After all that is squared away, then its time for retune on the dyno. Hopefully if we are careful and with lots of praying and finesse, the stock trans will let us max out the turbo in 4th gear.
After the car checks off on all check marks, fuel, ignition, tune, and temperatures, then if the HGT kit is finalized by that date, the order will be placed likely for 4 speed or 5 speed. From there it really just needs stronger axles, and big brake kit and she's 110%
Still can't say how thankful I am to Walker and those who believed in us through the past issues. Thing is a totally different car. It just sounds so completely different. Even the idle and free rev are entirely different sounds. Oil pump is holding up great, no shaft leaks, and rock solid 125+psi oil pressure from 4k and up. The relief is unbelievable. Hopefully all of it holds together to the last step of tuning. So far on quick WOT blasts up to 5k, the boost comes on much smoother/lazier from the bigger area ratio, and seems to hold just fine at 7psi spring pressure; we will know more once we open it up on the dyno.
02-28-17, 02:57 PM
#1041
Rotary Enthusiast
Zach.. Sorry to bring up old news. . Was it your 20B thread that had a picture of a mod done to the water jacket web on the rotor housing to try and prevent dowel land cracking? I am trying to find out where I saw this and if it is a well known trick as I have my engine apart for a refresh right now..
Cheers
Lee
Cheers
Lee
02-28-17, 06:11 PM
#1042
Zach.. Sorry to bring up old news. . Was it your 20B thread that had a picture of a mod done to the water jacket web on the rotor housing to try and prevent dowel land cracking? I am trying to find out where I saw this and if it is a well known trick as I have my engine apart for a refresh right now..
Cheers
Lee
Cheers
Lee
https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95.../#post11930813
03-01-17, 01:21 AM
#1044
Rotary Enthusiast
You're thinking of this from silverfdturbo6port:
https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95.../#post11930813
https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95.../#post11930813
03-01-17, 11:23 AM
#1045
Full Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Huntsville, al
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Not sure if this would be an option for you honestly, but I do have a STI tranny from a GR chassis that has a group N kit built at Jacks here in Colorado. These group n kits from rallispec are no joke, I have never heard of anyone breaking these built transmissions. Not sure how much custom work is needed for these to get them to fit and be RWD only. Let me know if you are interested, hoping to use the funds from the sale to build by FD.
03-05-17, 08:13 PM
#1047
David, another option, MT82 Getrag 6speed, buy it, send it to Calimer Transmissions. Check them out. That's my plan on my 4 rotor project. Can be had for $600-800ish, base rebuild which is still quite stout is appx $800, he has higher hp/tq rebuild options.
03-06-17, 09:11 AM
#1049
that sound is amazing! 
makes me want to go 4 rotor, but i really shouldn't
what's your wastegate spring pressure? 4 port? seems very docile at high rpm. I assume you were flooring. I wish I can listen to the sound without feeling like I'm on a wild bronco at times.
makes me want to go 4 rotor, but i really shouldn't
what's your wastegate spring pressure? 4 port? seems very docile at high rpm. I assume you were flooring. I wish I can listen to the sound without feeling like I'm on a wild bronco at times.
03-06-17, 12:35 PM
#1050
that sound is amazing!
makes me want to go 4 rotor, but i really shouldn't
what's your wastegate spring pressure? 4 port? seems very docile at high rpm. I assume you were flooring. I wish I can listen to the sound without feeling like I'm on a wild bronco at times.
makes me want to go 4 rotor, but i really shouldn't
what's your wastegate spring pressure? 4 port? seems very docile at high rpm. I assume you were flooring. I wish I can listen to the sound without feeling like I'm on a wild bronco at times.
this is actually less than probably 10% throttle, not really in boost I was just winding out the gears for the sound...its way slower than it sounds
but when in boost its 7psi spring pressure, 4 port solenoid but not hooked up at the moment, waiting on that video...the gates are just scary out of the hood when the pop haha
Last edited by Monsterbox; 03-06-17 at 12:46 PM.