anyone interested in going to the Orange Show races this Saturday night? I have free tickets.


ASA BSR West Super Late Models, this is what my dad used to race, 3200 pound tube chassis, 450 h.p. V-8, on 10" wide tires.

ASA Pro 4's, built 4 bangers in tube chassis light weight cars. almost as fast as the super late models.

ASA Factory Fours, slow compact cars with stock 4 bangers. usually lots of bumping and banging.

Driving School, no idea

Demolition Derby, you all know what that is!

Figure 8's, tons of fun if there are enough cars.

Drive Tech Exhibition Race, no idea

 

Absence you can always drive down and then ride with someone during the run. That is what I did a couple times when my other rx7 was having coolant trouble. I always have a open seat and most of the 8s do to.

 

Well thank you very much man, I didn't think of that. I might have to take you up on that!

 

Update: Got my radiator back in the car, and its running great. 1800 miles left on the break-in.

Was driving my brother's RX-7 to school last friday and it started overheating. I pulled off the freeway, let it cool down, then drove it home. Its got the original radiator, and it looked like the coolant hasn't been changed since the car rolled off the lot. We flushed it a few days after bringing it home, but I bet the radiator is still falling apart inside from rust and corrosion. A new radiator is about $175, so it won't get done for a couple weeks.

So heres the list of what needs to be done to my brother's RX-7:

New radiator
New tires
New shocks and struts
New springs
Bypass leaking ABS unit

And it should be good to go after that. We'll have all this done before Sevenstock XI this year so we can bring the twins down to Irvine.

 

most likely the thermostat so check it first and if you want my extra s4 radiator I can give it to you during the next run. I had two non-oem fail within three months. All you need to check it is a 12mm socket and 10 minutes.

 

Could also be something as small as a bad radiator cap or something as big as a bad coolant seal. I would pressurize the coolant system and see if it holds the pressure.(look for leaks if it doesn't hold the pressure) If it does get a new radiator cap and try it. You can rent the pressuriser for free at autozone. Good luck!
D

 

yesterday I finally started to install the clutch I got from you, what brand was it? I also stopped by your house on tuesday morning in my 7 but you weren't home.

 

Well thank you, I will discuss this with my dad.

Thank you very much, this is a great idea. I've got three free days this weekend, so I will report my results on Monday.

 

It was an ACT Street/Strip clutch. Awesome clutch IMO. Sucks I wasn't home. I always love going for a cruise.

 

forgot about the thermostat as well. Good call Wil.

 

Thermostat is working fine, I took the radiator cap off and the coolant was circulating. There seems to be no leaks, or at least none I can find. I doubt its a bad coolant seal, since the engine starts up fine and the "add coolant" light isn't on, and the overflow is 1/3 full consistently.

I think that the flow through the radiator is probably poor due to rusting inside the radiator, resulting in a blockage of the lines running through it. However, we'll just have to keep an eye on it to see if the condition worsens, the coolant can be visibly seen leaking, or the add coolant light comes on.

Thanks for all your help guys, I will continue to post updates.

 

dont forget to get ALL the air out of the system...... my turbo2 kept overheating, and it ended up just being air!

start your car with the rad cap off.... let it get to operating temp, and let it sit for as long as it takes for the small air bubbles to dissapear.... keep filling the coolant as it starts to lower (if nescessary).......

 

Thanks, thats a good idea.

Nice video in your signature by the way, that was really cool.

 

and boy was it fun making that video

 

got the clutch in and it is making a large difference. Also complimented my transmission mount with solid motor mounts. Put in new bolts as the old were stripped and not tightening. Everything now feels much more precise while driving and no slippage of the clutch...yay. I lose traction in second now because theres no limited slip....Boo

Look at the old pics. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/what-happened-my-clutch-pics-757400/

 

Damon, I am driving up to my parents house thursday morning and will stop by if your home. While switching phones I lost your number, so can you pm me it or call me.

 

Sounds good Will. I'm usually gone from 7:45-8:30AM but I'll be home after that. I'll pm you with my phone # later today.
Damon

 

Well I bought a new car today and should hopefully make the next meet. It's moddd and turboed, 20 years old, and is in mint condition. I'm stoked, it's Jesse's evo grandpa.

 

How much did you shell out for that Conquest!!?

 

5k. A little pricey for a starquest but is really well built and has an absolutly perfect interior. Not even a wear spot on the drivers seat. They aren't as HP friendly or even reliable as rotaries but I like em'. The 2+2 seats should work well with my 2 little boys.

 

Wow, thats beautiful! Congratulations!

 

dude, thats freakin awsome. I love t hose cars. they are so cool lookin for their time. you cant mistake that its from the 80's.
Michell wants to know when you coming over to take her for a ride.
I just want to know when I get to drive it???

 

It was good to see you yesterday and it is terrific your finallly getting another toy. Did some research and it is definantley a neat car, I never heard off them before.
I also think that the vibration is from my driveshaft. Searched around the forum last night and vibration while under load at cruising speed match my symptoms. The car was also making tinging sounds prior to this. Anyway hope to see you on the 14ths meet.

 

I have one quick unrelated question. I am installing a autometer a/f qauge and was wondering if it can be used with any wideband controller. If so this is what I will get.
Any opinions and will this work with a standalone.

 

^^^ good question. I dont know.

I think you need a wide band O2 sensor to go with the wide band gauge and controller though. PM Scotty305, he is the man to ask.