My coolant light keep turning on and off but i didnt worry about it to much because it use to do that all the time, i think it was some ground wire issues or something.

But last night i drove it to stockton and what i notice was that NOW when the coolant light goes off my thermostat goes up and when it's off my thermostat goes down.

I try driving it bak to davis and same thing was happening and when i put over (couple blocks fromy house) because the thermostat was off the roof, it started to smoke, i pop the hood and the coolant reservoir was over fill and there was coolant spill everywhere on the fan.

I let it cool down for 20 min and den it wouldnt start up. I had to wait an hr til it'll start up. My friends suggested that i should change the waterpump or thermostat, i been reading some forums and some pplz change the sensor when their coolant light was buzzing, but i'm afraid that i blown my coolant seal ...i hope not. Anyone has any other idea or how can i check if i blown my coolant seal or anything i could do?

It still start but i'm afraid it might over heat again n this time worst ....

 

Just replace the simple things your friends stated. Does it usually smoke when you start it up after a long sit time? (over night or a few days)

 

talk with ben he could help

 

inner water seals.. exhaust gasses probably seeping into your water ports in the housings/irons.. common problem with 13bs..This happens when you overheat once and blow a water jacket, or just old bad seals..

 

Get the system pressure tested (to eliminate loose clamps or leaking hoses) or take it to a shop to test the coolant for exhaust gas (this will definitely tell you if they're blown).

If the coolant seals are toast, it'll be difficult to start because all the coolant leaked into the combustion chamber.

By thermostat, do you mean the temp gauge?

 

did you change your coolant recently? might be an air pocket..did you try bleeding the rad. for air..? if you try running it again after you shut it off try feeling the rad hose..if the coolant is boiling say goodbye to your engine..this happened to me once when i was on the way home turn's out that there were no v-belt's and my water pump wasent pumping...it overheated and the rest is history.

:AA:

 

I think it was smoking because the coolant was spilling everywhere

Which ben we talking about ? the one from yuba city?

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/cooling.htm - talks about dealing with overheating rx7, i think my car falls under the constantly overheating ... ?

I was looking for the thermostat n found out that my rad cap is broken, the spring broke off when i try opening it. I'm going to flush the rad and change the thermostat, not the gauge, and replace the rad cap tomorrow. I want to do a compressure test but have to wait til i get the tool

Also before the overheating, i was having problem starting the car. I would have to turn the car couple of time before i can get it start, would that have to do something with my 02 sensor? I was thinking about changing the spark plugs as well.

When the car was overheating, the fan was extremely loud, is that because it was overheating because right now it quite.

The day the car overheated, the reservoir was overfull but now it is empty, and when i took off the rad cap i couldnt see any coolant ... and the coolant light still turn on but i dont see any coolant leak so is that common?? but i do see some oil leak.

 

Rad cap might have done it. Be sure to use OEM (e.g., dealer) on the thermostat or you'll have problems with the lousy aftermarket (auto store) ones.

When your coolant got hot it expanded and went into the reservoir. When you flush the rad refill through the rad cap (or w/e the highest cap is) and fill the reservoir only to "low" ("empty"?) to make room for the coolant that will come in from topping off the radiator. The coolant light goes on when you're missing coolant from your radiator; it doesn't care about the reservoir. The problems you've mentioned are a lot more than routine coolant loss so I'd refill through the rad cap ASAP even before you flush (assuming you drive the car at all). Expect some coolant to move to the reservoir so siphon coolant out of the reservoir down to "low" now or down to "full" later.

Don't drive when it's about to overheat. You could lose your engine after a bad overheat. A rebuild is $3000. Try topping it off through the rad cap and replace the rad cap like I said but if you continue to have problems then stop driving.

 

So i was trying to flush the coolant yesterday but i had to wait til my silicone sealant to harden. Today when i start the car, after couple of mins it started to overheat and the excess coolant start flowing out of the overflow tube and into my reservoir but the problems is that my overflow tube is crack on one side and the tube is broke so it spilling coolant everywhere onto my motor.

This never happen before, i remember sometime my hose (which is connect from the reservoir to my overflow tube) wasnt even connect and the car wont even overheat or release any excess coolant and everything would be fine. I replace the rad cap but i think that is causing the overflowing of coolant into my reservoir because my old cap, i believe, has a pressure of 16 psi and my new one has only 13 psi. Could that be why excess coolant is overflowing in the reservoir so early, after couple of min of starting the car?

Could it be the water pump? I test the thermostat by putting it in hot water and it open up so that's fine. Is there a way to test if the water pump is working?

btw, thanks for all the input guys.

 

but yea i was talking about the yuba city ben if you cant get a pm response from him try talking to nick (smogsux)

 

no one knows anything about rad cap having an affect on the overheating ?