NorCal Community Chat Thread v. 3.0- 2010
the internals get a chrome like finish after a few hundred miles of revs, lapping isn't necessary. lapping is mainly to cut down on iron plate step wear from the oil seals and side seals.
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,487
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From: Vacaville, California
oh, ok that makes sense, I watched a video in Pineapples site about step wear.
Just waiting now for my RA rebuild dvd and engine mount adapter, and I'll tear into the block.
I dont really want to port my engine because of emissions and such but what about polishing the ports? and benefit?
Just waiting now for my RA rebuild dvd and engine mount adapter, and I'll tear into the block.
I dont really want to port my engine because of emissions and such but what about polishing the ports? and benefit?
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,487
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From: Vacaville, California
cool thanks Ben, Probably wont port it cause I'm not sure if the it will help much running the stock twins.
would it be possible for me to order the gaskets and seals from you Ben?
would it be possible for me to order the gaskets and seals from you Ben?
I fix planes...
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Murica
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,487
Likes: 0
From: Vacaville, California
Ok huge progress report,
-Engine is fully disassembled
-Rust on the rotors comes off with slight rub so no pitting that I can tell
-side housing step wear by touch is very minimal, I have a dial gauge to tell for sure.
-water seal damage seen in pictures, some spots almost 3 inches of seal missing
-No obvious damage done, will have to wait to clean the parts before I can take measurements
Can anyone give me an idea of what seals I should reuse and what I should not? Bruce reuses springs and side seals in the video, I kinda want new everything in there so I can have piece of mind, but maybe Im wrong...
-Engine is fully disassembled
-Rust on the rotors comes off with slight rub so no pitting that I can tell
-side housing step wear by touch is very minimal, I have a dial gauge to tell for sure.
-water seal damage seen in pictures, some spots almost 3 inches of seal missing
-No obvious damage done, will have to wait to clean the parts before I can take measurements
Can anyone give me an idea of what seals I should reuse and what I should not? Bruce reuses springs and side seals in the video, I kinda want new everything in there so I can have piece of mind, but maybe Im wrong...
i would probably suggest this for a parts list:
goopy racing
goopy 2mm apex seals $350
atkins rotary
OEM apex seal springs $55
viton oil control o-rings $40
3rd gen corner seal springs(optional, the 3rd gen ones are reusable) $25
side seal springs $17
corner seal plugs $28
front + rear main oil seal pair $15
S5 89-91 generic internal gasket kit $135
FD front cover gasket(optional if you don't want to use the s4 gasket kit and run the top bolt) $32
side seal set (optional if your side seals are still within clearance) $105
other things to consider are main bearings, i generally only replace them as needed if the copper showing on the face is more than about 10% of the width of the whole bearing face. replacing bearings if they aren't worn can lead to other issues like sloppy press fit into the seats. so i keep in mind "if it ain't broke don't fix it".
so minimally you're looking at about $650, you could even go cheaper with the atkins apex seals which are only slightly over $200 but i don't really run them for higher horsepower inducted engines anymore when there are more durable seals on the market that won't eat a rotor/housing when the seals pop.
just pay extra attention to the coolant seal walls and make sure none are cracked or about to break off, which can be a nightmare after severely overheating an engine. 50% of the time you will be fine though but i would poke them with a pick fairly lightly from the inside out to make sure they are solid.
goopy racing
goopy 2mm apex seals $350
atkins rotary
OEM apex seal springs $55
viton oil control o-rings $40
3rd gen corner seal springs(optional, the 3rd gen ones are reusable) $25
side seal springs $17
corner seal plugs $28
front + rear main oil seal pair $15
S5 89-91 generic internal gasket kit $135
FD front cover gasket(optional if you don't want to use the s4 gasket kit and run the top bolt) $32
side seal set (optional if your side seals are still within clearance) $105
other things to consider are main bearings, i generally only replace them as needed if the copper showing on the face is more than about 10% of the width of the whole bearing face. replacing bearings if they aren't worn can lead to other issues like sloppy press fit into the seats. so i keep in mind "if it ain't broke don't fix it".
so minimally you're looking at about $650, you could even go cheaper with the atkins apex seals which are only slightly over $200 but i don't really run them for higher horsepower inducted engines anymore when there are more durable seals on the market that won't eat a rotor/housing when the seals pop.
just pay extra attention to the coolant seal walls and make sure none are cracked or about to break off, which can be a nightmare after severely overheating an engine. 50% of the time you will be fine though but i would poke them with a pick fairly lightly from the inside out to make sure they are solid.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Mar 24, 2011 at 11:34 AM.
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,487
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From: Vacaville, California
Awesome Ben! You're the Man, man! I see you're recommending the the S4 Gasket kit, I might just buy the FD gasket kit because I'll probably need to replace intake, turbo oil, and all the other little gaskets anyway (like the oil pick up tube gasket, that just flaked apart...) from the picture on Atkins site, the FD set has way more gaskets then the S4.
Check out what I saw today :P
Check out what I saw today :P
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,487
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From: Vacaville, California
wait Jake, you were suppose to sell me the engine... :P Ben pointed out in my other thread that my front iron is in bad shape, so im looking for a good used one now if anyone has any 
