Where can I find a place do Ls7 swap
11-26-06, 10:36 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by l8z_kid
i got 2 rx7 ust wanted a rotary rx7 n a v8 rx7 hehe
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11-27-06, 12:07 PM
#17
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Hinsonsupercars.com does turn key swaps. Located in Alabama
Isn't trolling a violation of TOS agreement?
My opinion is save your money on an LS7 and do a LS2 swap and build it up for less but have more power in the end.
Isn't trolling a violation of TOS agreement?
My opinion is save your money on an LS7 and do a LS2 swap and build it up for less but have more power in the end.
12-01-06, 08:00 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by KaoticFdR1
Hinsonsupercars.com does turn key swaps. Located in Alabama
Isn't trolling a violation of TOS agreement?
My opinion is save your money on an LS7 and do a LS2 swap and build it up for less but have more power in the end.
Isn't trolling a violation of TOS agreement?
My opinion is save your money on an LS7 and do a LS2 swap and build it up for less but have more power in the end.
12-02-06, 02:25 AM
#19
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hmmm just call hinson super cars at 205-887-5161...brian is a great guy and i'm sure would be happy to answer any questions you have regarding the swap.
12-02-06, 11:50 AM
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Now I don't really know anything about the swap, but from what I've read, the LS7 accessories won't fit. Another reason to go LS1 or LS2 and just build from there.
The LS7 seems to have a few issues due to the extremely thin block "meat" between the cylinder sleeves, and the sleeves themselves are really thin, too. Since you can make probably more power with an LS2 (than a stock LS7) without boring it out that far, you might as well do that, and you'll be saving yourself money in the end.
I think I know what you're going for here... "My RX-7 has an LS7 in it." Big deal dude, just go with the LS2. That way, when someone else tells you they have an LS7, you can just say "So what? My LS2 will spank the **** out of your LS7." You know, if you really want to get to comparing dick sizes or whatever.
The LS7 seems to have a few issues due to the extremely thin block "meat" between the cylinder sleeves, and the sleeves themselves are really thin, too. Since you can make probably more power with an LS2 (than a stock LS7) without boring it out that far, you might as well do that, and you'll be saving yourself money in the end.
I think I know what you're going for here... "My RX-7 has an LS7 in it." Big deal dude, just go with the LS2. That way, when someone else tells you they have an LS7, you can just say "So what? My LS2 will spank the **** out of your LS7." You know, if you really want to get to comparing dick sizes or whatever.
12-02-06, 03:20 PM
#22
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It is dry sump, which is better for road racing and so on. To do the swap you need the F-body accesories, oil pan and transmission, they only came with an LS1, that's why it's the only one listed. AFAIK you can bolt up any of the LS engines to those parts, with some minor modifications possibly required.
12-05-06, 05:27 PM
#23
LS1 swap in an FD can be done for around $10K (used LS1/T56 + swap kit) without the cost of labor the right way. THere are many shortcuts you can take (ie stock rod bolts, no headers, cheap exhaust, stock clutch etc).
LS7 swap is an easy $10-15K on top of an LS1/T56 swap. It is a dry sump race style engine, has the best flowing heads (350cfm factory intake) and has factory 2.2" titanium intake valves with a great flowing intake that supports power well into the 7K rpm range. The thin sleeves are only a problem if you plan to spray 200hp+ nitrous shots or are trying to make big power with forced induction. The benefit of the LS7 is that you can make 550-600rwhp on 91 octane and not have any additonal weight associated with forced induction affecting the balance of the car. You can only put down so much power. With this much power in an FD it should run easy mid 10's@135mph+ n/a. With a 100-150hp nitrous shot it should run easy 9's@145-150mph+.
To do a real LS7 swap you need a custom Kmember (Hinson or Granny's kit won't work) as the dry sump oil pan sits lower up front. You also need to mount the oil reservoir inside the car or have one custom made that would fit in the engine bay (probably $1500-2K for a custom tank). You also need a good clutch (ie twin disk) which costs $1200-1800 with flywheel to handle the torque.
All the other non sheetmetal intake offerings for LS1/LS2 and stroker based motors flow falls flat around 6600rpm limiting power in the upper RPM range. This is the shining quality of the LS7 setup. It can support power in the 6500-7500rpm range with a hydraulic cam (meaning essentially no maintenance).
There are no true LS7 converted FD's running at this time. There is (1) conversion with a resleeved LS2 displacing 427ci (wet sump) with LS7 heads/intake. It gets the benefit of the large flowing heads/intake; however the oiling system is not optimal like the dry sump.
In 2006 there will be at least 2 LS7 "dry sump" engine powered FD's driving on the street (1 will be mine) and maybe more (JimLab in WA and Andrew in TX) if they get on the ball and complete their projects.
LS7 swap is an easy $10-15K on top of an LS1/T56 swap. It is a dry sump race style engine, has the best flowing heads (350cfm factory intake) and has factory 2.2" titanium intake valves with a great flowing intake that supports power well into the 7K rpm range. The thin sleeves are only a problem if you plan to spray 200hp+ nitrous shots or are trying to make big power with forced induction. The benefit of the LS7 is that you can make 550-600rwhp on 91 octane and not have any additonal weight associated with forced induction affecting the balance of the car. You can only put down so much power. With this much power in an FD it should run easy mid 10's@135mph+ n/a. With a 100-150hp nitrous shot it should run easy 9's@145-150mph+.
To do a real LS7 swap you need a custom Kmember (Hinson or Granny's kit won't work) as the dry sump oil pan sits lower up front. You also need to mount the oil reservoir inside the car or have one custom made that would fit in the engine bay (probably $1500-2K for a custom tank). You also need a good clutch (ie twin disk) which costs $1200-1800 with flywheel to handle the torque.
All the other non sheetmetal intake offerings for LS1/LS2 and stroker based motors flow falls flat around 6600rpm limiting power in the upper RPM range. This is the shining quality of the LS7 setup. It can support power in the 6500-7500rpm range with a hydraulic cam (meaning essentially no maintenance).
There are no true LS7 converted FD's running at this time. There is (1) conversion with a resleeved LS2 displacing 427ci (wet sump) with LS7 heads/intake. It gets the benefit of the large flowing heads/intake; however the oiling system is not optimal like the dry sump.
In 2006 there will be at least 2 LS7 "dry sump" engine powered FD's driving on the street (1 will be mine) and maybe more (JimLab in WA and Andrew in TX) if they get on the ball and complete their projects.
12-05-06, 06:29 PM
#24
I agree with Mark, though I think the dry sump tank can be done for well under 1500 dollars.
An LS7/RX7 is going to be cost prohibitive for 99% of people who can't do the work themselves, and 90% of the people who can. It's a lot of money for advantages that most people won't appreciate. I did the numbers for going LS7 in my car, and decided on a 408 with spray, as I don't and won't really road race the car, and don't need the inherent LS7 advantages (dry sump, massive N/A HP). I can do my setup for half the cost of the LS7 (or less) and spend the rest of the money on other toys.
For someone like Mark who wants the best road race machine he can get, or someone like Jim who just wants the ultimate setup he can reasonably (that's a relevant term) create, it makes a lot of sense. A Katech custom built engine might be another good option, though their pricing isn't really any better then an LS7 crate engine.
An LS7/RX7 is going to be cost prohibitive for 99% of people who can't do the work themselves, and 90% of the people who can. It's a lot of money for advantages that most people won't appreciate. I did the numbers for going LS7 in my car, and decided on a 408 with spray, as I don't and won't really road race the car, and don't need the inherent LS7 advantages (dry sump, massive N/A HP). I can do my setup for half the cost of the LS7 (or less) and spend the rest of the money on other toys.
For someone like Mark who wants the best road race machine he can get, or someone like Jim who just wants the ultimate setup he can reasonably (that's a relevant term) create, it makes a lot of sense. A Katech custom built engine might be another good option, though their pricing isn't really any better then an LS7 crate engine.
12-05-06, 11:02 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Sell one of your rx7s to someone who will appreciate the rotary, and buy an rx7 that's already been swapped. Problem solved
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