Vader

Hey guys,

I'm curious as to what shocks/spring set ups you guys are running with your V8's. My set up is older and worn out and while it worked ok with the rotary in the car, it's just not reacting correctly with the V8. It's mushy and even a tad bit unpredictable, so i'll be buying something new and I could use some perspective.

Thanks alot.

Littleguy

iTrader: (5)

I'm running Tokiko Illumina shocks with Tein High Tech springs and they feel really good.

digitalsolo

iTrader: (2)

KYB AGX w/ Eibachs on mine.

Vader

I should say that I have an FD. So you guys are both running shock/spring combo's that are for the regular rotary set ups? Interesting.

Littleguy

iTrader: (5)

Well, I didn't want to re-invent the wheel so I looked up combo's people were happy with and decided on this one since the Eibach Pro-kit's seem to be harder to find these days. My car is street and track driven so I wanted a nice progressive spring with not too drastic a drop along with some adjustable springs. If anything the fact that I run a V8 only makes me use different settings on the shocks than the rotards might, but at the same time, I now my car doesn't weight any more than a stock FD.

digitalsolo

iTrader: (2)

My aluminum block turbo car weighs 2800 lbs with a 51% front bias. It's no heavier than the rotary.

theprophet36

Running Tein Coilovers in my swapped FD

automationLED

iTrader: (5)

My FD with espilir springs, the front is lower than the rear by an inch, I never had a rotary in it so I'm not sure if its because of the ls1 or the spring design

I'm looking to upgrade to coilovers soon

AWD-RWD racer

iTrader: (5)

koni yellows with eibach lowering springs

Thor 18

Do you track your car occasionally? what's the best place to get the eibach/konis?

Exidous

At the limit the power delivery might call for a different dampener setup. Otherwise, aluminum block, run what everyone else runs. The Ohlins/Penskies are at the top. The iron block MAY call for a one step up in the front spring rate as it's an extra 90-105lbs on the nose.

I use JIC FLT-A2's with 10kg front/8kg rear. I have yet to track the car but have done autoX and drag.

You really need to decide what you want out of the car. Pretty good handling and good street manners just get koni yellows($800 or so inc springs). From there it can range from $800-3000+ easily.

Don't buy anything from Megan Racing. You get what you pay for.

Brent Dalton

iTrader: (31)

Set up should be pretty much the same as your rotary set up if you have an aluminum block. My car is 50/50 as well. It may just be your shock/springs were on their last leg and finally gave up the ghost. Like others have said, if you are wanting something new, figure out what your intent for the car is and post it. For just a street car, I've been really happy with eibach and Tokico's or H and R and Koni's or any combo of shocks/springs. Tein Flex's have also been a pretty good dual purpose set up that I've been happy with in the past. Adjust dampening to almost full soft for street driving, turn in up for AutoX/Track Days. Any of the japanese coilovers/mid grade coilovers will pretty much do the same thing IMO. I have had quite a few different kinds over the years. The Penske/JRZ/Koni(high end) stuff is track only and requires more frequent rebuilds. I don't remember exactly what my spring rates are on my Penske's, but I believe it's 1000f and 850r. Maybe 900/750. It's been a while. That's also with 315F/335R R compound tires.

ncaudio

iTrader: (14)

I'd say look at Howard Coleman's thread, if you go with coilovers be careful to get the right springs, more is not better and FYI, some kits come with spring rates as high as 12K F and R which is too stiff overall, you need the rears to be softer than the fronts for correct balance and traction. The big advantages of the coilovers is ride height and shock rate adjustability, if you are planning on replacing shocks and springs I'd say just go for coilovers, they won't be that much more expensive, I have some low mile Apexi's on the '94 LS1 car, but don't have any specific recommendations on brands.

ZoomZoom

iTrader: (2)

You have the bump steer correction kit?

If it were me I would buy a set of midrange coilovers and play with the preload on the springs and see how far the alignment is out.

Or better yet...Is quite possible your alignment is out enough right now to give you those unpredictable results you have. So maybe before spending all the money, check the alignment first.

But if you decide on coilovers it gives you the option of easily swapping out spring rates as well without a spring compressor. Preload on springs, ride height adjustments, shock dampening etc.

alsxe10

Tein basic on mine

Flipmike22

Any replies from someone who auto-x's and knows what set up tht gets out of a turn really fast?

Exidous

I have surprisingly good traction out of the turn with 255 180 tread ware tires. Using the setup I posed above.

7 front mid
5 soft rear

If it gets a little loose I might go down to 4 in the back. This is on a really small parking lot course running about 35-50 sec laps.

It's my turn-in that is the issue but the alignment needs work.

97SupraTwinTurbo

iTrader: (8)

Cusco zero 2 coilovers.

Vader

I have the aluminum block. You may be right. I think they were on their last legs and just gave up. They're mushy and i'm just not happy with the turn in. I'm not going to track the car much more than they occasional autocross, but I want the car to feel the same as it did with the rotary if possible.
I would love to get my car on a scale to see what the weight and balance is, as it does feel heavier to me. After all, the aluminum block LS1 is about 90lbs heavier right? At least out of everything I read, the most realistic and informed answers all put it in that ball park.
Thanks for the reply. Good info here. I'm obsessing a little.

Vader

My car is all Hinson parts and I believe the bump steer kit was put in. Unfortunately I didn't do the work myself, so i'll have to check the receipt to see. I can't wait to get a house so I can dive into some of this stuff myself.
It was out of alignment bad. I've since had it aligned. It did help but the handling characteristics are still the same. Mushy.

Vader

Wow. See, that's awesome! Also interesting, as everything i've read says the aluminum block is about 90-100lbs heavier. I take it you did some weight reduction?

Dickey

I just caught this thread and thought I might have some firsthand information that would be useful.

I'm currently running ground control coil overs with koni yellows. My car is a 93 touring chassis with sunroof, Hinson LS1/T56 swap, steel driveshaft, a/c and powersteering. My corner weights with 3/4s in the gas tank and the OEM suspension just prior to replacing everything a few months back:

LF: 719 RF: 726 - > 1445 lbs
LR: 733 RR: 709 - > 1442 lbs

2887lbs total as described

With me (196lbs) in the car that same day:

779 745 -> 1524 lbs
818 741 -> 1559 lbs

3083lbs total though I'm happy to say that figure has since been reduced by 20-25 lbs.


With these numbers in mind, I bought my current gc/koni setup with 9kg front / 6kg rear springs.


I could not be happier with the setup for a street car running OEM 225/50-16s all around. I've got the front shocks set marginally stiffer than the rear and the car is excellent. It's very comfortable to drive everyday and behaves very well when pushed. I haven't done an autocross with this car yet though I suspect I'll find time to get back to cone dodging this coming season. Most of my autox experience comes from a 2zz swapped MR2 Spyder though I've also spent a fair amount of time on course in a 96 Miata.

Vader

Sorry to just get to this now. This is great info. Thank you. I have the same car as you. 93 touring. No AC, but I do have an older roll bar in the car which no doubt adds some weight. I would love to weigh mine.
Did you get around to running the 7 this season?
Congratulations on your weight reduction. Haha.