To V or not to V? That is the question.

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Old 11-14-06, 12:09 AM
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To V or not to V? That is the question.

I've got this 88 GXL. Motor was out when I bought it. The owner said some "pure water" got in the coolant system and cracked the mid iron? housing? w/e. Sure enough there is a nice hole( ill post pics later). From what I have found so far, it looks like he tried to use some piston motor stop leak techniques. Anyway, I think I have enough "hard" parts to build 1 good motor. He gave me some from his old one? I duno that whole story. Anyway, I am intrigued by the rotary motor even though it seems like it takes a lot to make power, well without going turbo. A lot of my friends . . . well all of them keep telling me to put a V8 in it. From the power per dollar aspect it seems like a good approach. Just looking for some input. Time isn't really an issue since I have a great daily driver. I would like to have the car on the road by the time I'm done with spring semester. May 1st 07. If not that day then soon after.
Old 11-14-06, 12:15 AM
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Purists (like me) would say to keep the Rotary no matter what. Its a great learning experiance and a fun little gadet to mess around with-- especially if you have a daily driver.

If you want shere easy power and don't want to learn how to work with a (non turbo) Rotary, I would say get a different car. Or if you are still interested in the rotary and want some decent power swap in a Turbo II motor.

Others would say swap in an aluminum block V8 (like and LS1) and "save yourself the headache".

Its really up to you.
Old 11-14-06, 12:21 AM
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aim** JI II IM IM Y

 
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lol piston engines.. get the **** out of this forum.

jk
Old 11-14-06, 12:36 AM
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Take your own advice and get out. No flaming.

Just rebuilding the rotary will be cheaper than swapping in a V8, but to get to those sort of power levels, the V8 will be cheaper in the end.

The swaps are expensive, don't kid yourself, the LS1 pullout alone will run you $3-5k. Then there's another $3-5k for the needed parts (installation kit, bigger rad, TII diff, etc, etc). Then there's more $$$ on top of that if you want to upgrade other stuff.

My advice would be to rebuild the motor and if you still want to do a V8 swap then gather parts and do upgrades as you can, then once the car's ready for it, then do it. Don't forget suspension, wheels, tires and brakes. You'd be putting down a lot of power, you'd want to upgrade those first, or it'll be a handfull, and not in a good way.
Old 11-14-06, 12:37 AM
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I really want to learn how to work the rotary. I think it would be cool, plus kind of something to brag about. I duno. Is 200whp reasonable on an N/A 6 port? I could always toss some nitrous on there for the straights, if I really wanted to. >_> <_<
Edit: It came with some pretty cool after market 16's I'm happy with and it has the 4 pot fronts and singles in the rear with vented disc's all around but I think most knew that. I do plan on going to a slotted rotor with better pads, since the old ones are junk anyway. I forgot to mention the car had been sitting since 03.
Old 11-14-06, 06:57 AM
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Rotaries confuse me

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RX7's like to go around turns fast, not straights. Sure, you can get an RX7 to go fast in a straight line, but where's the fun in that?
Old 11-14-06, 08:45 AM
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if you want a project, rebuild your NA motor.

If you want power, just buy a T2. Swap is going to cost you way more.

If you want a whole lot of straightline potential, just buy an LS1 Fbody. You can get them pretty cheap these days.
Old 11-14-06, 09:32 AM
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Slotted rotors aren't an upgrade, they don't change your braking performance at all. Good pads and good fluid is what you need for good brakes.

200whp is a number that very few have acheived on an NA 6 port. It'd take some doing, at least a street port, plus lots of other mods.

LS1 F-bodies are nearly 4000lbs, so won't be nearly as fast as an LS1 RX-7, besides, not everyone wants an F-body. An LS1 RX-7 is a good way to get good handling and good power in the same package.
Old 11-14-06, 09:39 AM
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For better brake pedal feel get some braided stainless flex lines. The stock brakes work great, just make sure everything is in good shape.
Old 11-14-06, 10:45 AM
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Yea fluid and lines etc would be worked in to the general brake category. Right my major concern is going to be getting the rotary put back together. I figure this is the best time to do any internal modifications since the motor is apart. Has anyone heard much about the PR 6 port inserts? From what it looks like with the 6-port I'm limited on how big I can go. And I don't have the money for an LS1 swap, it would probably be an older v8 or LT-1 assuming I can find one, if I went that route.
EDIT: I forgot to mention the previous owner had and HKS intake, RB header, and pacesetter exhaust. The car was sitting at his place for 3yrs before I bought it. Not I bought the car 3 years ago. lol. Thanks for all the feed back so far.
Old 11-14-06, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by My5ABaby
RX7's like to go around turns fast, not straights. Sure, you can get an RX7 to go fast in a straight line, but where's the fun in that?
Its fun when you can freaking keep up to people at the road courses... whats the point of handling when you cant push your handling tot he limits with speed?
Old 11-14-06, 03:09 PM
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what's the point of doing a lot of work to only get 200hp and be at the top of the envelope.

i'd rather spend a bit more and get 350hp and still be at the bottom of the envelope.
Old 11-14-06, 03:10 PM
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keep it rotary what ever you do
Old 11-14-06, 03:29 PM
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Well I looked over the parts today from both motors the guy had. It looks like I could put together a pretty shabby rebuild. I don't know what this guy was thinking. It looks like their is baked "coked?" oil in one set of rotors. The housings are alright IIRC one had a small crack (1mm) on the trailing sparkplug, but that is also the one that is extremely shiny on the part of the housing right before the plugs. There are also some weird circular marks on 2? of the rotors. Like he was trying to clean it with some type of orbital tool. The E shafts look ok, there are some blued parts but they dont look too bad. I should have taken pics but I have night class I need to get ready for. Other than the motor the car is in decent shape body wise. The interior could use some TLC.
Old 11-14-06, 03:48 PM
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The baked on oil is probably normal carbon buildup. Post some pics of the housings and e-shaft so we can see if they are usable.
To get 200 whp on a street car, it takes a lot of work. You need a good, large streetport, ported exhaust, and a standalone with a good tune. You also need s5 rotors and intake and NEW rotor housings and resurfaced side housings (irons.) With old, used housings your aren't going to get the compression required to get 200 hp. If its just for the track, you can bridge port it and get mor like 250 whp. It will not be very good on the street, though. It will have huge overlap meaning crappy low end power and not very good driveability on the street. It can be driven on the street, don't get me wrong, but its not ideal. You HAVE to have a standalone to run a bridgeport, though.
If you want to make good power and keep the rotary, the best thing would be to get a j-spec turbo engine from www.corksport.com. Rebuild it and swap it in the car. With a few cheap mods you have an easy 200 whp.
Old 11-14-06, 06:42 PM
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Want to learn rotary engines/cars? This site is the best source of information you can get for them.
Old 11-14-06, 11:42 PM
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Seems like I have formulated a pretty good solution. Assuming all the hard parts are within spec, I'll rebuild the rotary. However if it looks like the cost of the rebuild starts approaching a swap I might turn to the dark side. And if the rotary last long enough till I have a job that can support regular rebuilds I'll keep around, but if it last me only 20k then F it I'll toss a V8 in there. So until then I'll be searching and reading on rebuilding the rotary. Wish me luck.
Old 11-18-06, 08:25 PM
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Hmm 3 days and nothing new. After reading some rebuild tip treads, I'm worried some stuff might be weakened by rust and I'll be back at square 1 minus $1000.
Old 11-18-06, 08:53 PM
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I have a complete longblock for sale if you are interested. Only 88K miles when it was pulled for a turbo swap. That way you can be driving it and save some extra money while deciding which way to go.
Old 11-18-06, 10:16 PM
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A little O/T here, but just curious. Did you buy this car from a kid on Mt Washington? and is it white? IF so, I hope you didnt give his asking price of 1200. I looked at this car and was very interested, but after some research found it to be a bit pricy for what was there.

Anyways, IMHO, stay rotary and build it yourself. Im going to be rebuilding my first rotary VERY VERY soon and looking forward to it. Im in PGH myself and would be more then happy to give ya a hand. (I am an automotive Tech by trade and have access to a large array of tools, mic's ect ect)
Old 11-19-06, 12:56 AM
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yea it was the one from Mt wash. No I didnt pay his asking price. I talked him down but I still feel I paid too much now that I have done more research. But its ok I guess, I got and email from him asking how things were going and apparently he had some personal issues that a few extra bucks probably helped out with but w/e. I was out beating on the DD and I feel that a few extra horses would be a nice thing.
Old 11-20-06, 12:18 PM
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Well I found a motor in Cleveland that "ran good" i assume before the pull. Hopefully, the guy gets my PM and I can have a motor in this thing for Christmas. lol I guess I can figure out the wiring mess in the mean time. You guys rock. Thanks for talking me out of a V8 for now.
Old 11-20-06, 02:29 PM
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Did you check with All foreign auto? Its out in lawrenceville under the 62nd st bridge. The might have an engine for ya there. 412-782-5580
Old 11-21-06, 12:04 PM
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I forgot about local junkyards but I just assume the engines are their for a reason. I need some advice/help from you guys on this one. My friend keeps telling me its a waste to rebuild the rotary he says "its like what $900 just to rebuild a motor and only get what 140hp?" I'm like "yea whats your point" he says (no direct quote "thast a waste of money, why not put a 350 in it" heres where i offer a varity of answers some for it some agains it and i'll usually change the subject. I explain rotarys are capable of making power too. he says yea with like $10k. Not really my point. At this point I dont really care how fast or slow it is. Drag racing gets kind of boring after awhile anyway. Can anyone offer and help on shutting him up, all he does is **** on the rotary more or less. Sorry to vent on you guys but I just feel like **** today. Maybe I'll go hammer on the ride for awhile.
Old 11-21-06, 03:25 PM
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mattg prob nt coming back

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tell him how much power you make per lt.


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