You're a nut for trying to run A/C, what a pain in the *** Packaging is a tough job. So you're obviously going to make a ****-ton of torque. What is the plan for putting it to the ground

 

285's?????

I'll be running 10" wheels, either 285/295 and a 3.27 rear gear that will make first gear good to 61mph so it should be better than most at getting it down.

 

I'm in love with this swap! And im not the biggest fan of the ls engine only cuz everyone is doing it. But not everyone is doing it like this!

 

Haha thanks. Just got told today the turbo compressor wheel is out of stock. Won't know an ETA til Tuesday. UGH.

 

Subscribing for such an awesome project. Looks like I'm going to need to max out my T-Trim when I'm in your area, so I can keep up!

 

Great car is there any video

 

IC. I was thinking about this the other day... IIRC they gear the C6 Z06 & ZR1 @ 3.42 final drive (not sure what the trans ratios are compared to a fbody camaro t56 which most seen to use).... that's probably part of the reason chevy chose a lower ratio. That and they can brag about how ridiculous their 0-60 times are since you can run the whole thing in 1st gear lol. They do put the power down real well. I've been in a ZR1 a 1/2 dozen times now with a crazy driver and his car is planted in 1st... and fast as ****! The Z06 feels very similar.

 

Yea I think the linearity of the powerband shouldn't shock the tires as bad as an FD with a 4.3 and a huge single that comes on like a light switch.

 

Ls motors just look soooooo good in these cars.
I bet the wiring is going to be a true pita.

 

Why the thumbs down?

Wiring should be interesting.

Got the turbo. Precision 7675GTS with the billet compressor and ported shroud. Rated at a conservative 1200hp.

 

So no one cares about gnarly turbos. Got it. Also, I think it's kinda of stupid that my build thread gets thrown in a seperate sub forum because of the engine choice. It's still a build thread.

 

I think this build thread, and turbo, is pretty boss.

 

Didn't you post your thread in this section? I'm assuming you are saying this because you asked a moderator to move your thread and they said no?

As far as I can tell, they don't have a problem with other engine choices in the "build thread" subforum: https://www.rx7club.com/v-8-powered-rx-7s-299/mississippi-fd-383ci-forged-ls1-stroker-build-971046/

 

Yea I posted it originally in the build section and it got moved. I haven't asked anyone to move it back.

If a mod is reading this, can you move it back?

The turbo fitment in the bay is going to be TIGHT.

 

Dude, I love gnarly turbos, I like turbos in general Those suckers look pretty massive, have fun trying to stuff them in your engine bay. I still think you're crazy for trying to run A/C. Questions:

-Are there any other dual turbo ls-fds that have A/C?
-Are you still going to run your heater lines from the water pump to firewall?
-Wiring shouldn't really be any harder for this setup than a N/A car. The turbos don't have any electronics on them unless you count a boost controller or temperature/pressure sensors, etc.
-What are you using for boost control?
-IMO tuning it (air, fuel, timing) and getting your boost response where you want it will be the tough part.
-Who is going to tune this thing?

Is it done yet

 

bummer. I'd shoot them a PM to see if you can get it moved back then.

turbo looks nice

 

Haha a little clarification. I'm only running the on 7675. Trying to run 2 would be almost impossible and require hacking everything up. Plus, I don't need 2500hp.

There isn't a single LSX swapped fd turbo with AC that I'm aware of. I'm looking to be the first. I know Beastt is planning on putting it on his car but I think I'm going to be the first. That's the plan at least.

Yes on the heater lines. ALL fittings on the car will be AN unless they absolutely can't be. Ie the boost reference line off the Haltech has to be a barbed fitting I think. I don't think you can swap the integral fitting on the ECU but I'm going to look into it. But all the vacuum lines, radiator hoses, heater hoses etc. will be AN.

The wiring is going to be a bigger deal because I'm going to run the haltech standalone which requires building a custom harness off of their flying lead harness which isn't terrible, but I'm also going to be trimming the body, dash and front harnesses as well as relocating the engine bay fuse boxes and such to the passenger bin. I'm also going to be using a Racepak IQ3 dash so I'll have that to wire up to which should actually reduce the dash wiring since it's like 3 connectors that run right to the haltech. So that will be nice.

The haltech has an integral boost controller to 22 psi if I remember right. I should be over 900whp at around 16-18 so I won't need anymore than that.

And Speedfab will be doing all the tuning. After seeing what he can do with Beastt's car, talking to him a little, and what not, I really trust him to make it safe and powerful. The 14 hour drive to Florida will be totally worth it.

 

epic..... sub'd

 

gnarly turbos you say???

hope you dont mind....
GT40 with 4" anti-surge housing

LOL.... not as large, but it wasn't meant for a V8






ps.... consider this my subscription

 

Haha, I was about to be like "cool story bro."

Sorry for the lack of progress. Been slammed at work, one of my best friends had a kid and me and my wife are the godparents so that took all last weekend. Once I can find the time to locate the turbo in the engine bay, it'll be a game of connect the dots (manifolds) to the turbo and IC pipes.

 

not my cup of tea , the whole ls convertion thing ...i just dont get it (and yes i know i am running the risk of getting flamed for saying this )
but it does look like a cool project
i mean starting with a clean sheet and upgrading it to youre own style
with that massive motor and turbo , you should have quite a rocket there ......only thing that could be more fun then building that thing would probably be driving it
good luck

 

Appreciate it. Originally I was just going to do a heads/cam ls1. Then I thought, I won't be super happy unless it's turboed. Then I found the ls3 for a steal so it just kinda escalated. haha

As far as the converision in general. I won't flame anyone for disagreeing, but I would for perpetuating all the wrong stereotypes about the conversion. I honestly think that most rotary owners are just ignorant to the actual specifics of it.

I'm not sure what's not to get.

---Exponentially more power right out of the box with HUGE headroom. (heads/cam ls1's routinely make 430whp NA and some have been past 475whp And I'm planning on making around 900whp below 15 pounds of boost or so on a smallish turbo for this size of a motor)

---Substantially better reliability. Don't even try and argue this point. People run junkyard motors with over 100k into the 8's without breaking them season after season.

---Huge amount of aftermarket support

---0 weight gained. Another huge misconception. There is no weight gain when swapping to an aluminum blocked engine. People forget the rotary is cast iron.

---Still maintains the front/rear weight balance. Another misconception. When you relocate the battery to the bins, everything is back to perfect. And it's not hanging over the steering rack either.

---The LS motor is not an old, sluggish motor. Just because it has pushrods doesn't make it not rev happy. LS2 stock rev limit is like 6700 and 7k is pretty standard. I know it's not 8500 or 9k but when you make more torque off idle than 95% of rotary owners make at peak, you don't need another 1500 rpms. It also revs quickly.

---Fits under the stock hood. And now there are no bumpsteer issues at all. Maintains perfect suspension geometry.

So. There you go.

 

I would like you to back that up. With a regular lsx engine I'm sure there's not much to talk about. But, aren't you going to be running a front mount turbo? You're throwing quite a bit of weight on the front of your car compared to an NA lsx. Lots of tubing, intercooler, turbo. Same stuff that makes the fd longblock heavy.

Anyways, enjoying following your build.

 

a while back , i think jimlab made a comparison to this , or something , i am sure its in his thread somewere
i believe the LS swap (aluminium) was same weight compared to the 13b , but i think there was also some discussion that a turbo LS engine would be slightly heavier , because of the extra stuff turbo engines bring to the table , manikfolds , turbo etc etc

dont get me wrong i am in no way downing youre conversion , i think its cool and its great because it "keeps RX7`s in the loop" so to say
i love all rx7`s , be it LS ,RB,2jZ and yes even vtec h powered, i love them all
i like the rotary because i like to be different and not follow the masses , it might be inefecient , etc etc according to some but to me it works just fine , i am just saying if i wanted an LS powered FD i would buy a C5 ....same thing almost ....but again ,...thats just me

Again , nothing against youre conversion , and i particularly like the way you are planning it , very meticulous , i like that approach , i will be following the build also just because of youre attention to detail ...its what sets this appart
cool build , keep up the good work

 

Thanks, I'm not sure what there is to back up. I was talking about the NA LS motor, not mine. But a friend with a very similiar setup as mine will be recently sold his and built another and weighed everything before shipping- it was 85 pounds. So yea, I'm adding 85 pounds over a stock FD. I'll trade 85 pounds for 400whp all day. Compared to alot of people with an additional 30 pounds of body work, heavy *** wheels and stereos, it'll all be a wash anyway.

Haha see above on the weight, and the C5 is not like an FD with a different engine. That hurts me on the inside to hear you say that. haha.