with the picture above with the turbo, is it going in an FD or FC? If so, how's the exhaust going to be routed? Just curious.

Tim

 

Maybe Jason didn't know it was from a fbody or was told it was from a Vette and didn't know the differences? Have you talked to him about it? Exactly how did the shop figure this out? Maybe he had to use a Vette pcm?

Don't know if it matters to you but those motors are the same as long as they're both 01+.

 

Yeah, I know they're the same. For what it's worth, my guy in LA says the heads were definitely ported (at least on the intake side, haven't seen the exhaust side yet) and the cam is fairly high lift (no markings on it, so maybe some sort of custom grind). Unfortunately the cam & lifters are showing some signs of damage, and will have to be replaced. Since we can't trust if heavy duty valve springs were used in the first build up, those are being replaced as well. It was leaking oil around one of the head gaskets, pehaps due to poor build, perhaps just bad luck.

So it turns out at least some of Jason's claims were true. And in fairness, right up until it broke, it was wicked fast. I am looking forward to getting it back, built fresh and ready to go at least 100K trouble-free miles.

 

What cam are you going with to replace yours? Futural makes some ncie cams for the LS1.

 

I still prefer the 7 to a C5/Z06...Vette's are a dime a dozen around here, granted I live 3 miles from GM Proving Grounds but everyone and their mother drives a C5 of one sort or another and C6's are getting to be the same way.

When you can goto Wal-Mart and find 3 C5's parked in the same parking lot, you know something is up

I've seen exactly 2 FD's in 3 years.

I would chuck the 7 for a new Z06 and we'll see how the market does this year, I already told the wife I wanted one and if there was any chance of being able to pick one up I'd do it.

There is no doubt you give up some creature comforts but this is just my summer DD and I like to drive the car, I don't putz around town in it.

 

I know the new Z06 will be badass performance wise, but if I'm going to buy a $70k car it won't be a GM or domestic. I like the C5 Z06 better then the C6.

 

Comp Cams is making a custom grind for my guy in LA, don't know the specs yet. Also replacing lifters and springs to be on the safe side.

 

We went with a "Matched Valve Train" from Comp Cams, custom grind on the cam to match exactly as possible the one that came out, with matching lifters, pushrods, springs, retainers, etc.

Specs on the cam are "approximately" 224/224 .595 112 LSA; very high lift, fairly short duration on both intake and exhaust sides. All I can say is it ran wicked fast before, and with the addition of ported exhaust mainfolds and a cold air intake that weren't there before, plus new rings, three angle valve job, all new bearings, decked and squared block, etc it should really fly when I get it back.

The engine should be going back in today or tomorrow, so the NEXT time I come home from work (this whole thing has seemed like an eternity) on May 17, I will hopefully be driving the car.

 

Nice, sounds good. Mine should be running by then also! Not that I'll have anything for ya till I get a bottle on it

 

 

Just the opposite......if you dont put ice in at the track. extended road use. it heat exchanges is better.

 

A quick update for everybody... the car started on the very first turn of the key when the car was re-assembled. I'm very excited to be getting it back, I'm leaving this afternoon for Louisiana, working five days of overtime before my regular seven day hitch begins. I'm going to try to arrange for the car to be brought over to me on Friday or Saturday if everything is finished.

I have to say that on balance, it has been a very ppositive experience with Freddie at Meineke Car Care in Thibodaux, LA. He is extremely knowlegable regarding RX-7s and now has a good working knowlege of these cars with V-8's in them. Anyone in the area having an RX-7 that needs working on should contact him.

He would be the ideal choice to have put together a conversion car for you using the Hinson parts. I suspect we will be seeing more and more of these LS-1 RX7 cars as the years go by and guys are on their seventh re-build of their rotary engine.

 

Only if you had a second heat exchanger to cool the water passing through the intercooler. Once the water in the system heats up, it stays hot unless you have a way to get rid of the heat.

 

See the radiator in the pic? thats is the heat exchanger for the hot water....thats bigger than the Koyo race radiater in the car.

Speaking of Freddy doing the LS motor I ve been at the shop most days ....and I have my RX7 and Ito motor over there. (Its been harder than that LS motor)
The red car is Mark57's the black on the right is mine after completed install even cold air intake box.Clean for alot of stuff.

 

You made a generalized statement about air-to-water intercoolers having better heat exchange in response to wingsfan's post. Nowhere did I see the qualifier "if you have a heat exchanger bigger than the Koyo race (I wasn't aware Koyo made more than one version...) radiator in the car".

No, I didn't see the picture. Don't assume that people have enough clairvoyance to automatically know what you're talking about...

 

Originally Posted by wingsfan
A-W is great for drag racing, where you can dump some ice in periodically. It's horrible for any extended/street use.
My response to that "generalized " was: extended road use. it heat exchange is better.
You stament about my setup with a picture including "before and after" as evidence of having built and utilizied several:
"Only if you had a second heat exchanger to cool the water passing through the intercooler. Once the water in the system heats up, it stays hot unless you have a way to get rid of the heat."
I'm sorry , because I assumed people dont have" clairvoyance as you stated to me" is why I submitted pics.............. I was trying to offer practical usage experience. not have you bust on our perfomance upgrades.
My apologies if you felt I slighted your response.

 

My statement was based solely on your generalized statement that air-to-water intercoolers offer better heat exchange. It doesn't matter what the pictures show because the accompanying statement wasn't completely factual and needed clarification.

Slighted? Hardly. I was elaborating on your statement for the general edification of all, not "busting" on your performance upgrades. Learn to recognize the difference.

 

Like learning to recognize the vernaculer you exercise to edify my statements by employing the word clairvoyence which in its use is to slight. I reject your position entirely unless you speak from experience of application on air to water I.C. . If you preclude or qualify your statements in an intended grammatical fashion on technical application and feel the need to subvert the information provided with a vail vernacular expoits so be it.
Dis aint no pissing match. you be more learned cuz you know me.....oh so well.
With that being said I believe that a properly constructed system does provide for a source of effecient heat exchanging , with a caveot. Air to water does heat soak if sedentary in between drag runs. You will expound in any negative fashion. I hope other can see beyond my internet short sightedness.The damn thing has it advantages...

 

Yeah, but the caveat there is that you need to run a large heat exchanger there that's oftne the same size or larger than an A2A unit would be. Most peole neglect that little issue.

Besides, the A2W unit in this case was being suggested as an alternative due to packaging constraints. If you have to run a mongo heat exchanger, how does that save you any packaging problems?

My point wasn't that A2W units don't work, just that IMHO they're not desireable for a street driven car. Once it's heat soaked that large volume of liquid is going to hold on to it's latent heat longer than a similar volume of air would.

 

Precisely.

Air-to-water's advantage is in short use scenarios like drag racing, where you can exchange the water in the system frequently. For extended use, an air-to-air intercooler is the simplest, lightest, and most effective solution. The air passing through an air-to-air intercooler is always at ambient temperature when the car is in motion. In an air-to-water intercooler, the coolant will eventually reach a temperature higher than ambient, even with a separate heat exchanger.

 

Understood. When Fast Freddy did the initial A/W the air intake after several runs through the gears and continued hotlaps at NPR it was almost of ambient. This was as registered with the Haltech E6. After a stopping to review the runs we were supprised to see that upon restart the heatsoak was 125' but upon sevral hundred ft. The coolant would recirculate through the water box and heat exchanger.On a 96 deg. day intake was slightly above,( after boost) fluctuating several deg. It never continued to reach a higher temp medium and hold.
We used the current Ford A to W system pump and have had excellent results. It is my impression that when Freddy spoke to Steve Kahn he said that he was impressed with the results (so I was told). I do recall the my I/C air to air IC after hot lapping and under hood temps were veryhot .I could not touch. however the water has never been hot to touch and the end tanks of the I/C that I could not touch I can now place a hand on idefinitaly.
I respect that I dont have some current temp numbers but if you bare with me I will post some results after stabbing the new motor and tune.

 

I see my A2L to have "heat soaked" upon a hot restart on hot days (as per Commander AIT*s) and it cools off fast with its dedicated aftercooler. Its coolant always feels....cool....w/ a temp far below ambient. The AIT sensor is in stock location.

Air intake temps on a typical sweltering (over 90*F and 100% humidity) Louisiana summer day at 75-80 mph run in the high 30'sC. Some sustained boost and heavy traffic can kick them into low 40's.

There's something to be said for the simplicity and ease of A2A FMIC.