I need to know what to spend my money on first!
01-03-06, 07:02 PM
#1
Slow RX-7
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I need to know what to spend my money on first!
I just bought a beatiful 1988 TII that I am going to swap a LS1 into. I am removing stuff now, but I need to know what to spend my money on first. I will be going pretty much all out on this project. Probably spending 12K, but I need to know to to buy first. I have a $1,000 to spend right this minute, but I don't know what to spend it on first. I have no use for the engine yet, or the mounting kit. But I was thinking maybe suspension or roll cage first? If I go with a suspension, for street and drag racing, what all should I use? Sways, struts, bushings, springs? What all is good on the TII and doesn't need to be replaced for drag use? The car will probably be setup for 10's and street driving. I don't think I can afford coilovers, but I do want adjustable struts. All input is welcome. Thanks guys. I have been searching, but haven't found any real good info on this.
01-03-06, 07:29 PM
#2
knowledge junkie
most V8 Guys start with a junkyard or blown engine car. That's because an LS1 doesn't bolt up to the TII transmission.
As the Turbo II is a very rare model in the US, you can use this to your advantage. Most guys on this forum would swap you a running non-turbo rx-7 in good shape plus the turbo drivetrain plus cash.
Other than that I'd recommend checking some of the RX-7 V8 sites dedicated to this setup, they've already done everything you're considering. Personally, a V8 Turbo II is as painful to me (and other owners) as chopping up an orginal Shelby Cobra for absolutely no reason
As the Turbo II is a very rare model in the US, you can use this to your advantage. Most guys on this forum would swap you a running non-turbo rx-7 in good shape plus the turbo drivetrain plus cash.
Other than that I'd recommend checking some of the RX-7 V8 sites dedicated to this setup, they've already done everything you're considering. Personally, a V8 Turbo II is as painful to me (and other owners) as chopping up an orginal Shelby Cobra for absolutely no reason
01-03-06, 07:40 PM
#3
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Originally Posted by vaughnc
most V8 Guys start with a junkyard or blown engine car. That's because an LS1 doesn't bolt up to the TII transmission.
As the Turbo II is a very rare model in the US, you can use this to your advantage. Most guys on this forum would swap you a running non-turbo rx-7 in good shape plus the turbo drivetrain plus cash.
Other than that I'd recommend checking some of the RX-7 V8 sites dedicated to this setup, they've already done everything you're considering. Personally, a V8 Turbo II is as painful to me (and other owners) as chopping up an orginal Shelby Cobra for absolutely no reason
As the Turbo II is a very rare model in the US, you can use this to your advantage. Most guys on this forum would swap you a running non-turbo rx-7 in good shape plus the turbo drivetrain plus cash.
Other than that I'd recommend checking some of the RX-7 V8 sites dedicated to this setup, they've already done everything you're considering. Personally, a V8 Turbo II is as painful to me (and other owners) as chopping up an orginal Shelby Cobra for absolutely no reason
01-03-06, 07:41 PM
#4
Good Luck. Thats about all U will probably get from around here. Sorry but the Wankel God pretty much rulz around these parts. Why are U wasting your time with a Rotary Chassis? I would imagine that u will screw up the weight distribution ratio & end up with a pig that goes nowhere fast. But I don't really know anything so again.... good luck
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01-03-06, 08:20 PM
#5
Slow RX-7
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Ok, this was a suspension FC question, not a whether you like my engine choice or not. So, like I said before, either help with the question or don't post. Any posts about my engine choice from now on will just be deleted. I just am asking about a suspension. Thank you.
01-03-06, 08:21 PM
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Vaughn has a valid point, sell the t2 shell with the driveline and trany (unless you were going to use some parts of it) and buy a n/a body to swap the v8 into. But im sure you have your reasons. 
01-03-06, 08:23 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by 88t2romad
Vaughn has a valid point, sell the t2 shell with the driveline and trany (unless you were going to use some parts of it) and buy a n/a body to swap the v8 into. But im sure you have your reasons.
The TII is the best choice for the swap because the whole car is stronger. I am using this car not a N/A. The TII has much stronger parts needed to hold the large amounts of torque. EX: My avatar.
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01-03-06, 08:29 PM
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Flaming removed.
However, rotorsownyou7 (which by the way is an ironic name considering your recent choices
just a joke), you should have posted this in the correct section.
The generation specific sections are meant for rotary related discussion, not piston. There was a specific section created very long ago for piston swaps. This being the "Other Engines Conversion" section. To avoid flaming in the future, please post threads like this in that section.
It is being moved now...
However, rotorsownyou7 (which by the way is an ironic name considering your recent choices
just a joke), you should have posted this in the correct section.The generation specific sections are meant for rotary related discussion, not piston. There was a specific section created very long ago for piston swaps. This being the "Other Engines Conversion" section. To avoid flaming in the future, please post threads like this in that section.
It is being moved now...
01-03-06, 09:01 PM
#9
Originally Posted by rotorsownyou7
The TII is the best choice for the swap because the whole car is stronger. I am using this car not a N/A. The TII has much stronger parts needed to hold the large amounts of torque. EX: My avatar.
I would believe you're wrong on that one.
The chasis are identical to each other. Unless you're using the TII tranny/DS/LSD. In which case those aren't the BEST for drag. I would think a solid rear axle with a good chevy tranny and custom shaft would be optimal for drag. On top of that all the FC suspension would have to be modified for the solid rear. Selling the TII and buying a base series four N/a would be your best option IMO. A base can go for dirt cheap under 500 with a blown engine. You can easily sell the TII shell with drive train for twice that. Over 2k if it has a running engine in it.
That would net you more cash for your drag racer project.
The choped up analogy mentioned earlier was likening a choped up shelby being a travesty to the wasted/redneck POS that a V8 7 is to rotary diehards like most on this forum.
01-03-06, 09:06 PM
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Plus with the base... you can swap in the 5 lug brakes and buy a TII LSD and axles if you wanted to use those with a custom driveshaft and whatever tranny.
Then all of a sudden you have all the components you'd be missing from the TII that you'd want to use, and you'd save more money and keep a TII rotary and on the road.
Then all of a sudden you have all the components you'd be missing from the TII that you'd want to use, and you'd save more money and keep a TII rotary and on the road.
01-03-06, 10:26 PM
#11
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Welcome to the Other Engine Conversion section 
Actually, from what others have posted here and on TC, the best hooking suspension setup for drag racing is the stock struts and springs. Most aftermarket suspensions including coilovers are stiffer than stock and will combat the weight transfer to the rear.
Automatic V8 FCs seem to pull the fastest 60' times and are the ones pulling the front wheels. The manual cars shock the tires too hard on launch and break traction too easy.
Of course, I have the worst setup possible for drag racing with a six speed and Tien HA coilovers. I can still pull a 12.24@112MPH with a stock LT1 and a road race suspension setup though
Oh, and there's nothing wrong with starting with a TII. You don't have to worry about switching to 5 lugs, TII diff swap and they've got all the creature comforts.
Good luck!
Actually, from what others have posted here and on TC, the best hooking suspension setup for drag racing is the stock struts and springs. Most aftermarket suspensions including coilovers are stiffer than stock and will combat the weight transfer to the rear.
Automatic V8 FCs seem to pull the fastest 60' times and are the ones pulling the front wheels. The manual cars shock the tires too hard on launch and break traction too easy.
Of course, I have the worst setup possible for drag racing with a six speed and Tien HA coilovers. I can still pull a 12.24@112MPH with a stock LT1 and a road race suspension setup though
Oh, and there's nothing wrong with starting with a TII. You don't have to worry about switching to 5 lugs, TII diff swap and they've got all the creature comforts.
Good luck!
01-03-06, 11:03 PM
#12
Street or Drag - the same advice applies
My belief is that if you are going to invest that kind of money, you should buy the nicest example you can find and use it. I went to a lot of effort to adapt the brakes on my car which are already on the TII. You have plenty of problems to solve - don't waste your time swapping brakes. As for saving some priceless TII from destruction, save that nonsense for a 62 Ferrari SWB.
I have invested about $11-12 k in my 84 GSL street conversion. I paid $1500 for a car with 60k miles and a dead motor. I think the interior was worth what I paid for the car. Of course a lot of people don't appreciated the value of quality.
Having done the conversion, I would strongly recommend installing a used, running engine, get the cooling, driveline, exhaust and suspension issues sorted and drive it while you are building a serious motor.
I have invested about $11-12 k in my 84 GSL street conversion. I paid $1500 for a car with 60k miles and a dead motor. I think the interior was worth what I paid for the car. Of course a lot of people don't appreciated the value of quality.
Having done the conversion, I would strongly recommend installing a used, running engine, get the cooling, driveline, exhaust and suspension issues sorted and drive it while you are building a serious motor.
01-04-06, 12:40 AM
#13
you should head over to the V8RX7 forum on torquecentral.com and use the search button for a few hours. You can learn a ton.
I've owned a fast automatic GN powered FC and it was a blast... but honestly after a while an auto gets boring after a while.
You should think about an LS1/T56 setup vs. the 4L60E behind it. It will be about .5 seconds slower in the 1/4 but with ported heads, healthy cam, JTR long tube headers, LS6 intake, ported TB, underdrive pulley and good tuning you will be running low 11's no problem. You can enjoy the car for what it was designed for... handling and road racing. That is just my opinion what you should do with the car.
If your goal is 10's shoot a 50HP nitrous shot and you will dip into the 10's or a 100 shot to go deep in the 10's. 10 seconds in the 1/4 is fast... especially in a light car like an FC.
Plan your buildup with a guideline for parts and if you can do it all yourself that just means you have more to sink in parts. The basic buildup guideline is on V8RX7 and if you can read... you can build it yourself.
I would spend the first $150 on new Energy Suspension polyeurathane bushings, and DTSS rear bushings (toe eliminator bushings). That will start you with a good baseline. From there plan on $3500-$5K for an LS1/T56. '99+ is what you want.
Good luck! It is worth the effort.
I've owned a fast automatic GN powered FC and it was a blast... but honestly after a while an auto gets boring after a while.
You should think about an LS1/T56 setup vs. the 4L60E behind it. It will be about .5 seconds slower in the 1/4 but with ported heads, healthy cam, JTR long tube headers, LS6 intake, ported TB, underdrive pulley and good tuning you will be running low 11's no problem. You can enjoy the car for what it was designed for... handling and road racing. That is just my opinion what you should do with the car.
If your goal is 10's shoot a 50HP nitrous shot and you will dip into the 10's or a 100 shot to go deep in the 10's. 10 seconds in the 1/4 is fast... especially in a light car like an FC.
Plan your buildup with a guideline for parts and if you can do it all yourself that just means you have more to sink in parts
. The basic buildup guideline is on V8RX7 and if you can read... you can build it yourself.I would spend the first $150 on new Energy Suspension polyeurathane bushings, and DTSS rear bushings (toe eliminator bushings). That will start you with a good baseline. From there plan on $3500-$5K for an LS1/T56. '99+ is what you want.
Good luck! It is worth the effort.
01-04-06, 09:26 AM
#14
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Originally Posted by dDuB
Flaming removed.
However, rotorsownyou7 (which by the way is an ironic name considering your recent choices just a joke), you should have posted this in the correct section.
The generation specific sections are meant for rotary related discussion, not piston. There was a specific section created very long ago for piston swaps. This being the "Other Engines Conversion" section. To avoid flaming in the future, please post threads like this in that section.
It is being moved now...
However, rotorsownyou7 (which by the way is an ironic name considering your recent choices
just a joke), you should have posted this in the correct section.The generation specific sections are meant for rotary related discussion, not piston. There was a specific section created very long ago for piston swaps. This being the "Other Engines Conversion" section. To avoid flaming in the future, please post threads like this in that section.
It is being moved now...
01-04-06, 09:27 AM
#15
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Originally Posted by 1987RX7guy
I would believe you're wrong on that one.
The chasis are identical to each other. Unless you're using the TII tranny/DS/LSD. In which case those aren't the BEST for drag. I would think a solid rear axle with a good chevy tranny and custom shaft would be optimal for drag. On top of that all the FC suspension would have to be modified for the solid rear. Selling the TII and buying a base series four N/a would be your best option IMO. A base can go for dirt cheap under 500 with a blown engine. You can easily sell the TII shell with drive train for twice that. Over 2k if it has a running engine in it.
That would net you more cash for your drag racer project.
The choped up analogy mentioned earlier was likening a choped up shelby being a travesty to the wasted/redneck POS that a V8 7 is to rotary diehards like most on this forum.
The chasis are identical to each other. Unless you're using the TII tranny/DS/LSD. In which case those aren't the BEST for drag. I would think a solid rear axle with a good chevy tranny and custom shaft would be optimal for drag. On top of that all the FC suspension would have to be modified for the solid rear. Selling the TII and buying a base series four N/a would be your best option IMO. A base can go for dirt cheap under 500 with a blown engine. You can easily sell the TII shell with drive train for twice that. Over 2k if it has a running engine in it.
That would net you more cash for your drag racer project.
The choped up analogy mentioned earlier was likening a choped up shelby being a travesty to the wasted/redneck POS that a V8 7 is to rotary diehards like most on this forum.
01-04-06, 09:29 AM
#16
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To the people that actually helped- Why would I keep stock shocks and springs? I had people on torquecentral tell me to get coilovers. What is really better? My stock shocks are pretty much gone.
01-04-06, 10:40 AM
#17
Originally Posted by vaughnc
Personally, a V8 Turbo II is as painful to me (and other owners) as chopping up an orginal Shelby Cobra for absolutely no reason
edit: Beyond that, as Mark said, get some bushings, DTSS eliminators, braided brake lines (they probably need replaced) rebuild your calipers, new rotors, new wheel bearings, and rebuild an S4 TII diff. Then start worrying about the rest of the stuff.
Good springs/struts or a coilover package would be a good idea as well.
Last edited by digitalsolo; 01-04-06 at 10:44 AM.
01-04-06, 11:23 AM
#18
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Originally Posted by rotorsownyou7
To the people that actually helped- Why would I keep stock shocks and springs? I had people on torquecentral tell me to get coilovers. What is really better? My stock shocks are pretty much gone.
The car in your avatar is on stock, original rusty shocks/springs and he's in the 9s.
http://www.torquecentral.com/showthread.php?t=32315
If it's a daily driver or occasional road course, I'd go with coilovers. Coilovers are difficult to hook up in an IRS car unless you spend a LOT of time swapping springs and valve adjustments to find out what works for your car.
01-04-06, 01:40 PM
#19
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Originally Posted by LT1-10AE
It depends on what you're shooting for. Drag car only? Daily driver? Occasional road course?
The car in your avatar is on stock, original rusty shocks/springs and he's in the 9s.
http://www.torquecentral.com/showthread.php?t=32315
If it's a daily driver or occasional road course, I'd go with coilovers. Coilovers are difficult to hook up in an IRS car unless you spend a LOT of time swapping springs and valve adjustments to find out what works for your car.
The car in your avatar is on stock, original rusty shocks/springs and he's in the 9s.
http://www.torquecentral.com/showthread.php?t=32315
If it's a daily driver or occasional road course, I'd go with coilovers. Coilovers are difficult to hook up in an IRS car unless you spend a LOT of time swapping springs and valve adjustments to find out what works for your car.
01-21-06, 03:44 PM
#20
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ive got a gxl and im going to run ground control coilovers for the t2 because the t2 is heavier,and then kyb agx struts and shocks.u can pick all that up on ebay for 700,100 for new bushings.not sure about strut bar yet.and for your intake check out intaketubing.com or something like that.
you rx7 guys make me laugh
you rx7 guys make me laugh
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