Ragnaroek

Next week I am going to buy one of the deluxe kits from grannys speed shop. The old rotary is coming out saturday. Then in about a month I think im purchasing a low millage LT1 with an auto transmission.

How much did your swap cost total?

LT1 or LS1, what do you think is the advantages, or disadvantages?

Are the kits from the speed shop pretty straight forward? Did you have any problems?? (I attended automotive technology in college for a year)

Ragnaroek

Also for future projects, which motor do you think is supported by the after market community to more readily accept a turbo or SC set-up?

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

No question all SBC engines are most heavily supported and utilised

Ragnaroek

where are some good places to purchase lsx engines?

88IntegraLS

Mine cost about $6k, but it was a fully built 302 and all custom fab work, no kit. An LS1 could have been done for roughly the same price, but it would have been stock, and used.

themaverick

i think that an LT1 is more accepting of boost because its cast iron, but i also think that an LS1 has more potential (if your spending the same money to make it a built n/a)

Ragnaroek

Well, I'm thinking a stock LT1, because I may run a nitrous system in the future. I hear that a stock LT1 can handle 100hp shot with no problems.

I was looking at this ebay store for motors. What do you think of there prices?

http://stores.ebay.com/Fparts_LS1-LS...QQftidZ2QQtZkm

JustinStrife

iTrader: (2)

LS1's can handle nitrous well too.

American Rice

a STOCK sbc will handle a 150 shot. Thats what everyone says about them and I have used as big as 250 and NEVER had problems with it. And my latest one cost me just $7500 CDN roughly for my BUILT 388. The only thing I didn't do myself was assembly the bottom end and the machine work to it. Which was $2200

Ragnaroek

sweet,...but now I will have to wait a few more weeks....some old person pulled out in front of me across a highway off ramp I was taking..I t-boned him....now my '07 Chevy Colorado, my only means of transportation and my work vehicle is toast for at least 2 weeks.

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

My ford with all the right parts is adding up, heck aluminum heads heads alone, but I just picked up a free 85 GS with SE suspension and paid $400 for a built 350 SBC with turbo 350 trans and shift kit, Grassroots Challenge here I come....so far this owes me $200....

RADsRocket

With kits from GRANNY's you always have problems. Thing don't fit even if they do send the kits. You pay they play.

slo

iTrader: (1)

It would be used, but it would probably still be running

88IntegraLS

Lol, I'd blow up a stock LS1, too. It's something in my crazy mentality with cars.

AC Savage

my total cost is a hair under 1500, all have left to buy is an e-fan rad hose fuel house and fluids.

LT1/4l60e + grannys kit, 87 gxl.

i got luck on my engine tho, i bought the wole car (94 roadmaster) for $350, but the going ebay rate for LT1s is about 800-2200 depending on year and tranny.


btw where in norcal are you? and what school are you gonna attend?

Ragnaroek

Im way up on the north coast...100 miles south of Oregon....I used to go to El Dorado hills all the time though, thats where my girlfriend lived.

JDMRevolution

iTrader: (6)

So far ive spent about 3-3.5k. Its an fd and im going to be using and ls1...maybe ls2

You can run 150 shot a nitrous on a stock ls block with no problems.

You plan on running a turbo and nitrous...?

Ragnaroek

Not currently...just keeping my future options open.

burtoncr

Im doing an LS2 FD swap and I've kept a very strict record of my purchases. Ive got around 6k into it without the car or motor. Things add up alot quick than you expect

Ragnaroek

Holy crap batman! what did you spend $6k other than the car or motor?

burtoncr

Here are the basics, there are alot more
1200 basic FD kit (subframe, mounts, driveshaft)
400 cooling setup (budget one at that)
1000 long tube headers
500 custom exhaust (at least this much)
400 fuel system (braided lines, returnless)
450 new clutch (stock GM clutches cant handle much past stock power)

Thats already $4k and thats seriously leaving out alot alot of the misc crap that you realize you need or want to put on while the motor is out.

A proper LSX FD swap isnt cheap. Anyone on V8RX7club will tell you it will cost at least 10k on top of the car.

- Chris

Ragnaroek

wow...im looking to spend 6k on my FC build including the car....Why is the FD so differant?

sLoW'n'StEaDy

So far about $1500 but my sold my 13B setup (engine/trans/wiring) for $1200 so i guess you could say I am only at $300 or so...

Its a 5.0HO converted to carb with a NOS nitrous system (75-300shot), BBK underdrive pulleys, no AC, ported & polised E7TE heads, long tube 1/58-3" headers, Holley 600cfm carb, Torquer intake, stock bottom end and some other stuff) Still need a clutch, radiator and ignition system. should be pushing the limits of my block before too long. It is getting a 408W swap this winter so i am not too concerned...

gnx7

iTrader: (10)

There are many shortcuts/choices one can do with any buildup. Just depends if you want to do it once..... or redo it later down the line when you want more power.

FC mounting equipment is about 1/3 the cost if not 1/4 the cost of what it takes to do an FD.

You can run stock exhaust manifolds... but you won't make big power. LS1 headers are $700-1000 for quality pieces. You can always buy Mustang headers and cut the flange off..... weld on the LS1 flange... do some tubing "reworking" and have a good set for 1/3 the cost.

Modified C4 driveshaft for around $100 or a new one that is beefy for $350-600.

A conversion isn't complete if you are running 100K+ mile stock suspension... as it will be worn out. The car will drive like crap. FC bushings are only around $150 for them all. FD overhaul of bushings alone is nearly $850 in parts. Then add decent coilovers into the mix and you are nearing another $800-2K in just suspension. Larger front sway bar.... etc.

Stock brakes are fine if you don't hit up the track (road race course). At the minimum install some performance brake pads, braided s/s lines, and quality fluid. If you do track the car and don't want brake fade... time to upgrade. FC has limited options (Corksport sells kits); however they start around $2K for anything worthwhile. FD brake options are $1700-$3K+.

Radiator- you can run a $120 C4 Vette radiator or a $600-800 aluminum custom bad ****. Taurus fan for about $40... or a Spal for $250. Depends which route you take.

If it were me... bite the bullet and get the LS1. It is all aluminum and around 100lbs lighter than an LT1. LT1 have a poor factory ignition design (optispark), heads that flow ok, and the stock intake is a little restrictive. With a simple valvespring/cam swap and some quality headers, a tune, you can make 400hp from an LS1 if not more. The factory heads flow well and the LS6 intake can support 1000rwhp+. Individual coilpacks per cylinder, reuseable gaskets thru most of the engine, huge aftermarket support.....

Bottom line. Suck it up and go LS1. 100lbs off of the nose of any car makes a huge difference in handling.