How did you mount your LSX swap?
11-28-14, 08:26 PM
#1
How did you mount your LSX swap?
I still love my wankel engines, but after selling my TII I have come to the conclusion that swapping a TII or a 13B-rew powerplant would be pricey and not cost efficient.
I have pretty much decided on doing a LSX swap in my current N/A car. Looking to do a Al block but would settle for a Iron block and swap heads cams etc.
I know Grannyspeed and a few others sell a comprehensive "bolt-in" kit but I want to reach out to the community and see if you guys/gals ended up using some one else's kit with better results or if you opted for building you own mounts.
I am not going to be using A/C, but power steering might get used. Trans will be a t56, no slush boxes here since I hate automatics any ways.
I have a welder and am not afraid to undertake building my own mounts, that being said if a bolt on kit works great I would certainly consider that rout first.
Kind Regards,
A rotorite turned rouge.
I have pretty much decided on doing a LSX swap in my current N/A car. Looking to do a Al block but would settle for a Iron block and swap heads cams etc.
I know Grannyspeed and a few others sell a comprehensive "bolt-in" kit but I want to reach out to the community and see if you guys/gals ended up using some one else's kit with better results or if you opted for building you own mounts.
I am not going to be using A/C, but power steering might get used. Trans will be a t56, no slush boxes here since I hate automatics any ways.
I have a welder and am not afraid to undertake building my own mounts, that being said if a bolt on kit works great I would certainly consider that rout first.
Kind Regards,
A rotorite turned rouge.
11-29-14, 09:10 AM
#2
Ronin Speedworks for LSX FC engine trans mounting. It is the cleanest and best kit period.
It is the lightest, and gives the most exhaust clearance for headers, and exhaust clearance at the transmission mount. The exhaust is cheaper and easier to make because it does not have to go up and over the trans mount with the Ronin kit.
It is the lightest, and gives the most exhaust clearance for headers, and exhaust clearance at the transmission mount. The exhaust is cheaper and easier to make because it does not have to go up and over the trans mount with the Ronin kit.
11-29-14, 06:33 PM
#3
Ronin Speedworks for LSX FC engine trans mounting. It is the cleanest and best kit period.
It is the lightest, and gives the most exhaust clearance for headers, and exhaust clearance at the transmission mount. The exhaust is cheaper and easier to make because it does not have to go up and over the trans mount with the Ronin kit.
It is the lightest, and gives the most exhaust clearance for headers, and exhaust clearance at the transmission mount. The exhaust is cheaper and easier to make because it does not have to go up and over the trans mount with the Ronin kit.
I do love the fact that the Ronin kit seems lighter as you said. From the info I researched the ronin uses a two piece engine mount system, whereas it appears that the Granny speed uses a single piece mount subframe?
I am going for light weight track minded performance, not a 1/4 mile application (Much respect to those who do) and will be removing any nuisances.
I had one more question but can't seem to think about in at the moment.
Kind Regards,
RXmiles
-Abandoned Nirvana-
11-29-14, 08:03 PM
#4
The Ronin kit puts the engine as far back as it can go, and as low as it can go. Also it will work for PS and non PS. Engine install and removal is much quicker and easier with the Ronin mounts as well since it uses pedestals for mounts.
The Ronin trans mount makes life MUCH easier as well. It is very hard to run a larger diameter exhaust with the Grannys trans mount.
Seriously, there is no reason to buy another mount kit for an FC.
Here is the Grannys mount and exhaust
Here is the Ronin mount and a dual 3 inch exhaust
The Ronin trans mount makes life MUCH easier as well. It is very hard to run a larger diameter exhaust with the Grannys trans mount.
Seriously, there is no reason to buy another mount kit for an FC.
Here is the Grannys mount and exhaust
Here is the Ronin mount and a dual 3 inch exhaust
11-30-14, 11:50 AM
#7
Buy a used Corvette C4 aluminium driveshaft and have the slip yoke and pinion yokes changed and rebalanced at a local driveline shop. That is well documented on NoRotors.
Worst case there are many driveline shops that can make you a custom driveshaft via the phone or internet with your measurements.
The Ronin engine mount puts the engine slightly further back than Granny's. I don't know if the Granny's shaft will still work. There is a reasonable possibility it will work, but I have no firsthand experience. I have a custom driveshaft in my car to work with the 8.8 Ford diff.
Worst case there are many driveline shops that can make you a custom driveshaft via the phone or internet with your measurements.
The Ronin engine mount puts the engine slightly further back than Granny's. I don't know if the Granny's shaft will still work. There is a reasonable possibility it will work, but I have no firsthand experience. I have a custom driveshaft in my car to work with the 8.8 Ford diff.
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11-30-14, 12:30 PM
#8
Buy a used Corvette C4 aluminium driveshaft and have the slip yoke and pinion yokes changed and rebalanced at a local driveline shop. That is well documented on NoRotors.
Worst case there are many driveline shops that can make you a custom driveshaft via the phone or internet with your measurements.
The Ronin engine mount puts the engine slightly further back than Granny's. I don't know if the Granny's shaft will still work. There is a reasonable possibility it will work, but I have no firsthand experience. I have a custom driveshaft in my car to work with the 8.8 Ford diff.
Worst case there are many driveline shops that can make you a custom driveshaft via the phone or internet with your measurements.
The Ronin engine mount puts the engine slightly further back than Granny's. I don't know if the Granny's shaft will still work. There is a reasonable possibility it will work, but I have no firsthand experience. I have a custom driveshaft in my car to work with the 8.8 Ford diff.
The other kits that come as a more comprehensive package are way over budget, for my purposes I only want the basic kit and Ronin's seems to have what I want, reasonable price and functionality. The driveshaft will be custom made here in town, pretty much any large city/ town will have a shop that does just that. Radiator mounting, power steering etc. pretty much the rest will be taken care by myslef.
11-30-14, 03:58 PM
#10
No problem.
I would recommend doing the radiator yourself as well. The JTR kit is nice and works well for a street car, but it is not up to the task of open track use. Study a few FC builds on NoRotors. You can build a better setup yourself for equal or less money using a generic radiator from Summit, and doing some light fab work on your own.
Here is my setup- Howe dual pass race radiator and SPAL dual fans. It has custom mounts and an integrated intake. There is also a large oil cooler tucked in front of the radiator. The system works great on the track.
I would recommend doing the radiator yourself as well. The JTR kit is nice and works well for a street car, but it is not up to the task of open track use. Study a few FC builds on NoRotors. You can build a better setup yourself for equal or less money using a generic radiator from Summit, and doing some light fab work on your own.
Here is my setup- Howe dual pass race radiator and SPAL dual fans. It has custom mounts and an integrated intake. There is also a large oil cooler tucked in front of the radiator. The system works great on the track.
12-03-14, 10:44 AM
#14
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I will chime in and give another thumbs up to the Ronin kit. Also LargeOrangeFont is right on with fabbing your own radiator kit. I was able to do mine for under $300 by fabbing it all together myself, I ended up using a Taurus E fan. Mine is not nearly as nice as his though.
12-04-14, 02:01 PM
#15
Registered User
Thanks for the love guys.
FYI, Ronin designed our kit specifically to solve some of the challenges with other vendor kits. IE I used to run a set of Grannies mounts and it was damn near impossible to get the cradle to align to the motor since the landing surfaces were at 45 degrees. The picture of the exhaust running over Grannies' trans mount? That's my personal car and it had maybe an 1/4" of clearance with 2.5" exhaust piping. PITA and a heck of a lot of work to get done.
Hinson's kit has the same challenges with trans mounting. They've also done some things over the years that were pretty sketchy and had a few products they flatly should have recalled and didn't (weld pentration problems that could have killed someone). As such I personally refuse to use them even on products they have which are useful. I won't hold it against you if you do, for instance their master cylinder clocking bracket is helpful.
For FD's Samberg's kit is clearly the one have. If you buy a Samberg kit from Ronin we add powdercoat (any decent shop will charge you $300-$400 to do this), our engine pedestals, and both engine and trans isolators.
Link: FD LSX Mount Kit - Supreme We also let you buy our 8.8 rear end kit instead of Samberg's OEM diff support as an upgrade option on the Roninfied Samberg kit. That saves you some money and those two pieces together make for about the best driveline you can put into an FD.
FYI with a few exceptions, Ronin tries not to be a straight re-seller as we don't feel we add much value that way. Case in point, we don't think driveshafts are one-size-fits all hence why we don't sell them. I'd never put the same driveshaft in a car intended for a heavy duty drag racing that I would in a car that autocrosses. The C4 Automatic shaft mentioned is a good route for a great many FC's.
-Joel (for RSW)
FYI, Ronin designed our kit specifically to solve some of the challenges with other vendor kits. IE I used to run a set of Grannies mounts and it was damn near impossible to get the cradle to align to the motor since the landing surfaces were at 45 degrees. The picture of the exhaust running over Grannies' trans mount? That's my personal car and it had maybe an 1/4" of clearance with 2.5" exhaust piping. PITA and a heck of a lot of work to get done.
Hinson's kit has the same challenges with trans mounting. They've also done some things over the years that were pretty sketchy and had a few products they flatly should have recalled and didn't (weld pentration problems that could have killed someone). As such I personally refuse to use them even on products they have which are useful. I won't hold it against you if you do, for instance their master cylinder clocking bracket is helpful.
For FD's Samberg's kit is clearly the one have. If you buy a Samberg kit from Ronin we add powdercoat (any decent shop will charge you $300-$400 to do this), our engine pedestals, and both engine and trans isolators.
Link: FD LSX Mount Kit - Supreme We also let you buy our 8.8 rear end kit instead of Samberg's OEM diff support as an upgrade option on the Roninfied Samberg kit. That saves you some money and those two pieces together make for about the best driveline you can put into an FD.
FYI with a few exceptions, Ronin tries not to be a straight re-seller as we don't feel we add much value that way. Case in point, we don't think driveshafts are one-size-fits all hence why we don't sell them. I'd never put the same driveshaft in a car intended for a heavy duty drag racing that I would in a car that autocrosses. The C4 Automatic shaft mentioned is a good route for a great many FC's.
-Joel (for RSW)
01-13-15, 09:53 PM
#16
So I'm pretty bummed out, I almost had a 1993 Rx7, mint condition w/ 59,000 miles running strong for $10,000 
Dreams come close only to slip away.
Ahem...Any ways this could turn in to a build thread or I might start one for the car.
Picked up the engine today after talking to a seller for a FD. I picked it up and drove it to my abode.
Engine looks pretty appealing with it all aluminum body, sleek yet cheeky 243 heads.
Next update will be a inspection once the weather warms up.
So another question, what is a a popular way to solve the clutch master/slave?
Dreams come close only to slip away. Ahem...Any ways this could turn in to a build thread or I might start one for the car.
Picked up the engine today after talking to a seller for a FD. I picked it up and drove it to my abode.
Engine looks pretty appealing with it all aluminum body, sleek yet cheeky 243 heads.
Next update will be a inspection once the weather warms up.
So another question, what is a a popular way to solve the clutch master/slave?
01-14-15, 01:34 AM
#17
Nice pickup on the L33.
Buy a wilwood 7/8 master cylinder, order one of the Hinson firewall adapters or make your own to reclock the wilwood master.
Tap the clevis on the clutch pedal to the standard thread of the Willwood master, I forgot what thread pitch it is at the moment.
That is it. From there you just need to figure out the clutch line. Speedway motors has a 30 inch clutch line kit that works great and pops right into the T56 quick disconnect. Or you could get the adapter fittings for the slave side and master side, and run a simple -3 or -4 line for the clutch.
Buy a wilwood 7/8 master cylinder, order one of the Hinson firewall adapters or make your own to reclock the wilwood master.
Tap the clevis on the clutch pedal to the standard thread of the Willwood master, I forgot what thread pitch it is at the moment.
That is it. From there you just need to figure out the clutch line. Speedway motors has a 30 inch clutch line kit that works great and pops right into the T56 quick disconnect. Or you could get the adapter fittings for the slave side and master side, and run a simple -3 or -4 line for the clutch.
01-14-15, 07:33 AM
#18
Nice pickup on the L33.
Buy a wilwood 7/8 master cylinder, order one of the Hinson firewall adapters or make your own to reclock the wilwood master.
Tap the clevis on the clutch pedal to the standard thread of the Willwood master, I forgot what thread pitch it is at the moment.
That is it. From there you just need to figure out the clutch line. Speedway motors has a 30 inch clutch line kit that works great and pops right into the T56 quick disconnect. Or you could get the adapter fittings for the slave side and master side, and run a simple -3 or -4 line for the clutch.
Buy a wilwood 7/8 master cylinder, order one of the Hinson firewall adapters or make your own to reclock the wilwood master.
Tap the clevis on the clutch pedal to the standard thread of the Willwood master, I forgot what thread pitch it is at the moment.
That is it. From there you just need to figure out the clutch line. Speedway motors has a 30 inch clutch line kit that works great and pops right into the T56 quick disconnect. Or you could get the adapter fittings for the slave side and master side, and run a simple -3 or -4 line for the clutch.
Thanks for the advise on the hydraulics setup. I have a flare tool, maybe I'll build my own lines
01-14-15, 09:00 AM
#19
Ahh, I see. Pull all the VVT and DOD crap out, throw in a cam, timing set and regular lifters and call it good 
That will be a great engine.
And yes you can do a hard line, but remember the engine moves, and you need some slack to get the quick release fitting on and off, or a short piece of flexible line coming out of of the TOB to your hard line.
Here is the quick, easy way if you just want to fork out money. Pick the 7/8 MC
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/McLeod...nch,39869.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Banjo-...Body,8815.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwoo...-Kit,1133.html
Hinson Firewall adapter (you could make this pretty easily)
https://www.hinsonsupercars.com/p-75...l-adapter.aspx
Hinson does offer a modified master cylinder with metric threads welded onto the pushrod for $99. You could go that route, but taping the clevis for SAE threads gets you the same result, and then you can use the standard Wilwood MC as a replacement forever.
Another option for the line is to remove the quick disconnect entirely and just run your -4 AN line. you would replace your fitting on the MC with this, then run a braided line to your hard line attached to the car with a -4 union.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-139026
That will be a great engine.And yes you can do a hard line, but remember the engine moves, and you need some slack to get the quick release fitting on and off, or a short piece of flexible line coming out of of the TOB to your hard line.
Here is the quick, easy way if you just want to fork out money
. Pick the 7/8 MChttp://www.speedwaymotors.com/McLeod...nch,39869.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Banjo-...Body,8815.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwoo...-Kit,1133.html
Hinson Firewall adapter (you could make this pretty easily)
https://www.hinsonsupercars.com/p-75...l-adapter.aspx
Hinson does offer a modified master cylinder with metric threads welded onto the pushrod for $99. You could go that route, but taping the clevis for SAE threads gets you the same result, and then you can use the standard Wilwood MC as a replacement forever.
Another option for the line is to remove the quick disconnect entirely and just run your -4 AN line. you would replace your fitting on the MC with this, then run a braided line to your hard line attached to the car with a -4 union.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-139026
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