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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 04:58 AM
  #1  
Half Jap Boost Junky's Avatar
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From: Bowmanville
What should I expect

I might be running my car at the track this weekend. Just wanted some opinions on what I should expect to see on my time slip.

Mods:

HKS intake
3" Down Pipe, 3" Mid Pipe, 2.5" Y-Pipe
Racing Beat FCD
ABS Removed, Air Pump Removed, ACV Removed
Aeromotive FPR
Racing Beat Dual Alternator Pully
Stock Turbo, Intercooler, BOV, Wastegate, Injectors and Fuel Pump
Running between 7-10 psi sometimes it bleeds off, and sometimes it doesn't

So what do you guys think?
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 08:51 AM
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13.8 about what i had a couple of years ago and i ran 13.8's all day long
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 11:50 AM
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is it an s4 or s5???
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 01:42 PM
  #4  
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From: Bowmanville
Its an S5.

I forgot to mention, stock rubber and stock clutch.

I'm going to try and pick up a Profec B before the weekend so I can keep my boost up.

What are you guys launching @? I'm sure its probably specific to each car, but I just want an idea.
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Half Jap Boost Junky
Its an S5.

I forgot to mention, stock rubber and stock clutch.

I'm going to try and pick up a Profec B before the weekend so I can keep my boost up.

What are you guys launching @? I'm sure its probably specific to each car, but I just want an idea.


I wouldn't want to run anymore boost without at least a fuel pump myself. Save the money for the boost controller and start getting some fuel mods. S-AFC/standalone, Fuel pump, injectors.
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 06:02 PM
  #6  
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From: Bowmanville
I'm just going to make sure the boost stays at 10psi and doesn't drop off. I'm not planning on running anymore boost.

I've already got my single turbo upgrade, wastegate and manifold, but I want to see what the car will do with the mods I already have.
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 10:42 PM
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sounds good, I wouldnt want to run any more boost myself without fuel mods, agreeing with Ryde or die.
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 04:22 AM
  #8  
Half Jap Boost Junky's Avatar
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From: Bowmanville
Trust me, I've already been through a motor because of that. I've learned my lesson the hard way and I'll never do it again (Famous Last Words).

Getting my boost controller today. Now all I have to do is find some rubber and I'm off.

Wish me luck. If everything works out, I'll post the results.
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 02:19 PM
  #9  
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a boost controller wont keep the boost from falling off just FYI. its the design of the stock turbo.
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 03:55 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by Half Jap Boost Junky
Trust me, I've already been through a motor because of that. I've learned my lesson the hard way and I'll never do it again (Famous Last Words).

Getting my boost controller today. Now all I have to do is find some rubber and I'm off.

Wish me luck. If everything works out, I'll post the results.


So far it doesn't sound like it. Well make sure you port the hell out of your wastegate since you will have a boost controller to bring it back up to dangerous levels :p
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 04:14 PM
  #11  
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From: Tampa, FL
Just for reference, heres someone with similar mods and his dyno sheet:


https://www.rx7club.com/time-slips-dyno-128/s5tii-dyno-pic-340049/


Hes running lean as hell and hes running 10psi and its going down to 5 at redline AND he has a walbro pump.
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 05:44 PM
  #12  
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Listen, I appreciate your concern, and I understand that I did ask for everyones opinion, but I'm not worried about detonating the motor. This guy you know may be running lean, but his car is not my car. My car is so rich that I could probably purchase a small island. Leaning out is not my concern at all. Just FYI, I've got the HKS EVC EZ installed now and the boost is as solid as a brick wall. Picking up some rubber tomorrow and thats about it.
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 08:52 PM
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yeah that is my dyno graph. i am under the impression that my injectors need to be cleaned fwiw since they are out of a jspec and i've had them for about a year.

and how do you KNOW your car isnt lean? can you like smell it or something? please enlighten us as to how you can tell the AFRs your engine is creating without using a wideband o2 sensor. we'd love to know.

also, you got an hks evc and your boost doesnt bleed at all?
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 03:26 AM
  #14  
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From: Bowmanville
Boost from first through third is mint. 10 psi right up to red line. As for the running rich, I can smell it as a matter of fact and my A/F gauge is deep in the rich zone. Not just 1 or 2 bars in, I'm talking almost at the end. But hey, you guys might be right, maybe I will blow my motor to the moon, but I'm putting the car down for a rebuild and port job this winter anyways, so I'm not going to be incurring any additional cost to my budget, just a little inconvenience. Its my toy, and toys tend to break from time to time no matter how well you take care of them. What ever happens, it can always be fixed.
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 05:59 AM
  #15  
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Is your A/F gauge a narrowband or a wideband?

However, you're only running 10psi at most. This will put you right up near the limits of the stock injectors and fuel pump. You should be fine unless your injectors were dirty.

I'm guessing you will run just under 14secs.
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 11:28 AM
  #16  
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I don't wanna say I told you so Buttmill, but I'm telling you, an EBC will maintain the desired boost level provided it's higher than what the wastegate is set at.
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 01:49 PM
  #17  
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From: Bowmanville
I'm pretty sure the A/F is a narrow band. My injectors were just cleaned when I had my tune up done, new plugs, new diff and tranny fluid, rad flush and fill and of course an oil change. I'll only be running 10 psi max and I'm only going to make 1 or 2 passes if I even have time to make a pass at all.
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Half Jap Boost Junky
Boost from first through third is mint. 10 psi right up to red line. As for the running rich, I can smell it as a matter of fact and my A/F gauge is deep in the rich zone. Not just 1 or 2 bars in, I'm talking almost at the end. But hey, you guys might be right, maybe I will blow my motor to the moon, but I'm putting the car down for a rebuild and port job this winter anyways, so I'm not going to be incurring any additional cost to my budget, just a little inconvenience. Its my toy, and toys tend to break from time to time no matter how well you take care of them. What ever happens, it can always be fixed.
LOL!! You can't judge something on SMELL. My car is an n/a, I run like 12.5-13ish and up AFR's which is lean for turbo but me being n/a is fine, and my exhaust smells like pure gas, so what? Smell tells you nothing! Also if your narrowband A/F gauge, which I'm sure it's narrow since you don't know, is like my autometer, rich is not rich for a rotary, it's rich for a piston. Stoich on those gauges (middle) is like 14.7, so rich is probably 12's or so. My A/F gauge reads rich as hell all the time, and again I'm n/a and running 12.5-13+ afr's.

Just fyi, thought you'd like to know before you detonate.
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 04:33 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by jon88se
I don't wanna say I told you so Buttmill, but I'm telling you, an EBC will maintain the desired boost level provided it's higher than what the wastegate is set at.
What is wrong with everyone? An EBC will not hold boost till redline if the turbo is out of it's efficiency range. How can an EBC FORCE a turbo to hold boost when it can't keep up anymore? It's just not plausible. Maybe this guy is lucky or there is some other factor here, but an EBC will not hold boost if the turbo can't keep up, just like everything else in the world.

Think of it this way. Say you are a runner and you want to run some distance in 4 minutes or something, but your strength will only allow you to run it in 4.5 minutes. You need a certain amount of energy to run this distance in 4 minutes, which you have provided for yourself, but you still CANNOT do it because your body wont let you. Same type of situation with the turbo, you can't force it to go farther than it's made to.
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Old Sep 17, 2004 | 04:29 AM
  #20  
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From: Bowmanville
Wow, I didn't realize I was going to stir up such a hornets nest. I just wanted to know what everyone thought and I appreciate the concern and suggestions. I didn't expect so much attitude from you guys.

I'm sorry to have wasted the time of so many rotary gods with my opinion. I bow down to your infinite wisdom. I'm only as good as the information I've been provided. Unfortunatly I havn't been able to learn everything yet. Consider me
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 02:13 AM
  #21  
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From: 626 Socal
As mentioned above, a narrowband A/F gauge reading rich at WOT maybe not really mean its running rich. Get on a dyno or have someone with a wideband A/F meter log your car and be sure what A/F numbers you are at. Then go from there.
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Old Sep 27, 2004 | 10:18 PM
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man you guys need to chill out and get a life....

jacobcartmill......why the attitude...?

i went to the dyno and the car has plenty of fuel...........
we actually had to back off the fuel at .8 bar.

if anything......the intercooler is the problem..............
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Old Sep 27, 2004 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by dDuB
What is wrong with everyone? An EBC will not hold boost till redline if the turbo is out of it's efficiency range. How can an EBC FORCE a turbo to hold boost when it can't keep up anymore? It's just not plausible. Maybe this guy is lucky or there is some other factor here, but an EBC will not hold boost if the turbo can't keep up, just like everything else in the world.

Think of it this way. Say you are a runner and you want to run some distance in 4 minutes or something, but your strength will only allow you to run it in 4.5 minutes. You need a certain amount of energy to run this distance in 4 minutes, which you have provided for yourself, but you still CANNOT do it because your body wont let you. Same type of situation with the turbo, you can't force it to go farther than it's made to.

THANK YOU
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Old Sep 28, 2004 | 09:30 PM
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it wouldnt hold boost at 10 psi

but it does let it stay up there longer............
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