arghx

iTrader: (3)

I just got back from the dyno a little while ago, and that was my sheet. They gave me the .drf files so I set that one up on my computer. We had tach signal problems so the power vs rpm curve didn't read properly up top, but at the end there I am at 8000rpm. And the torque reading had spikes in it, but I think it was 297 torque around 5000rpm or so. It could've been a little more. Ambient conditions were about 95 degrees F with 30% humidity. The SAE correction added like 3hp or so. The car might have another 10-15 hp in it if it were cooler outside, I do notice that it runs stronger.

This was at 18psi, 100 octane unleaded, AFR's around 11.5:1 . I initially thought that peak torque would be around 6000 but it was actually lower than that (but relatively flat) if you trust the rpm signal. So added like two degrees of timing between 5600 and 6400 or so and it seemed to help slightly. Trailing split was set at 12 and I tried putting it down to 10 but it didn't seem to do anything noticeable, so I set it back to 12. I have to go through my logs and see why there's a bit of a dip in the middle of the graph. I didn't have time to really mess with that too much. I know it does need a little more fuel as it's spooling but I'm not sure if that's some injector staging stuff that I need to work on.

Overall, I'd say I'm satisfied with the results. I know this turbo (T04S .70 A/R 60-1 with .96 P trim hotside) with this manifold (HKS log) is good for high 300s/low 400's depending on setup, and that's just about what I got. My ghetto Home Depot MBC is sensitive to weather and I didn't feel like fiddling with it to get another psi or two out of it since the turbo is on the edge of its efficiency.

RETed

Can you put up the torque graph?

You should've been able to break 400 no problem...


-Ted

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I'll put it up but it's got a huge spike in it... honestly I'm not that happy with the dyno itself. It is a 224X but at this place it is not an in-ground dyno, I had to put the car on a lift. And I don't trust the dyno's tach reading much over 5000rpm or so. I had the clamp on the rear trailing wire and the ground on a bolt on the firewall (maybe a better ground would have helped). I told the guy to set it to 4 cylinder and I presume he didn't mess with the other advanced settings too much. But the place I took it to hooked me up and basically gave me an hour of dyno time for $40. So I got what I paid for. Those conditions weren't worth a dime more than that.

I'm sure It's got 400 in it, but I'm not going to obsess over the number... I don't think there's anything wrong with the car. No boost leaks, confirmed with pressure tester. No ignition breakup that I could hear or feel. AFR's are pretty good once full boost hits but I still need a little work on the AFR's during spool, which I didn't really have time to do. The tuning could always be improved here and there, especially since I am tuning it myself and just learning. And you Ted yourself said that messing with timing wouldn't make a big difference. It didn't. Reducing split by two degrees (from 12 to 10) did nothing really. Adjusting the leading curve a little and adding two degrees from like 5400-6400 helped by a few hp, but that was it. I guess you can say that I'm not expecting 20-40whp to just magically appear if I take it to a better dynojet with it 70 degrees outside.





I am posting two more sheets. The first sheet has that first run from the initial post and another run where it appeared to get a little better torque signal. The second sheet I am posting shows how messed up the tach signal got. On run 4 I know I hit about 8000 rpm, datalogs confirm this. And the peak hp numbers read lower too on the rpm vs power graph.

RETed

Just looking at the second graph that you posted, cause the torque lines are a lot cleaner...

Is this a ported motor?
For a 0.96 turbine A/R, the torque band is way high.
If this was a stock port motor, I'd say something is wrong.
The "meat" of the torque band starts at 5kRPM.
How is your boost response?
I would think it would start making power a lot sooner...
The lines are reacting like you're got some big ported motor - almost BP like with that high torque peak - or lower boost...

Torque is starting to come down at 6.2k to 6.4k - weird.
It's like the numbers don't jive.
Something is surpressing the power for some odd reason.

100 octane is LL?
If it's LL, how long were the plugs subjected to this gas?
What kinda ignition system are you using?
What kinda spark plugs are you using?
CDI box?


-Ted

RETed

Yeah, if you ever tuned a piston engine, ignition timing advance can unlock a lot of power.
For rotary engines, you get very little gains messing with the ignition advance.
Sometimes it's just not worth adding more ignition advance for the paltry hp gains and see your EGT's climb...


-Ted

arghx

iTrader: (3)

unfortunately, I only remembered to save my first datalog and that's not the pull on the graph. You can see it's lean during spool but I fixed that, and I changed the timing curve a little bit up top which appeared to give me like 5 horsepower across the board after full boost hit. The PIM curve is my boost, with each 10000 = 1 Kg/cm^2 absolute so 14.2 psi . So 20000 = 14.2 psi boost . Ignore that knock reading, it is useless. I drove the car last night for about 10 miles in city traffic, literally never got into boost whatsoever, and my peak knock count was 80. Also keep in mind that I have a ghetto home depot MBC, I just don't have the money to get an EBC with stainless plumbing right now. The wastegate is still cracking at like 12-14psi maybe (open atmosphere, so I know when it opens).

And the ports are very large for a streetport. The guy who did the porting (motor was rebuilt right before I bought the car, has about 6k on it now) described them to me as about as big of a port you can go before you have to bridge it. The fuel is 100 unleaded--the O2 sensor (Bosch LSU) and plugs have not been exposed to leaded fuel at all. Plugs are BR10EIX, ignition is stock FC coils with HKS twin power, which cleared up all the ignition breakup I used to have.

Do you think the flakiness of the dyno is affecting readings?

RETed

Yeah, I was afraid of that...
I dunno why your turbo boost so slow?
It hits peak boost at 5kRPM?

I would think with the 0.96 turbine A/R, it would hit at least 500RPM to 1kRPM sooner?

Even at supposed WG spring pressure, it's taking at least up to 4.5kRPM to hit about 12-14psi.

To hit 7psi, it's taking 3.7k to 3.8kRPM...

Does the car feel laggy?

I was just looking at your leading advance...
It looks like when the turbo starts too boost, the ignition advance drops to under 25-degrees total advance?
If this is the case, you can try to run a little more ignition advance, especially under 7psi.
The additional ignition advance should help with turbo spool...
You can run at least another 5-degrees of ignition timing more under 7psi.

Have you also tried to run the AFR's a little more richer?
I don't have too much experience with 100UL, but it wouldn't hurt to try and run a little more fuel to see if this helps...


-Ted

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I actually added some fuel across the board on the last pull (in addition to richening up the lean spot during spool) and it lost power despite the fact that I had reduced split two degrees. So I think AFR's under peak boost are fine. Btw, I have the HKS 40mm standard wastegate with 10psi spring + ghetto MBC.

I will add more timing during spool. At one point it was even more retarded than that, and adding a couple degrees helped spool noticeably. I'm pretty much teaching myself how to to tune so I just go on what info I see posted on here. There's a lot about timing under peak boost but less information about safely tuning for spool. I just don't have an EGT gauge right now (my old autometer didn't read high enough, it pegged on the racetrack easily) and I think they're difficult to use if you just have to eyeball it while driving. I will eventually do a dual channel 0-5v setup that I can put on to those datalogit maps.

polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

hey man where do you dyno your car at? Im almost done with mine and Im going to need a place with a dyno to tune it the right way.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

^ Phantasm in Raleigh. Wasn't particularly happy with the dyno conditions as I mentioned. Raeford is near Fayetteville right? probably have to find something around there, or in SC or something. I mean near Raleigh is RPM and Fastlane, and a couple of other spots. get on www.horsepowerjunkies.com and do some research there.

I just added some timing but I haven't gotten a chance to take the car out and boost it yet.

polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

thanks