GTUs TII dyno
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Marion, Ohio
GTUs TII dyno
took it to get it dynoed before i get a microtech and hybrid, was expecting around 200 hp, but put down 245 whp 230 tq @10 psi
this is on stock turbo, stock ecu, stock injectors.
unfortunatly, my afr's are in the 12-13 range! im surprised i havnt gotten any detonation. its weird, i dynoed 246 @ 12 psi, 247 @ 11 psi. mustve hit the max effiency of the stock turbo around 10 psi then instead of 13?
ill post the dyno sheets if i can get my scanner to work
this is on stock turbo, stock ecu, stock injectors.unfortunatly, my afr's are in the 12-13 range! im surprised i havnt gotten any detonation. its weird, i dynoed 246 @ 12 psi, 247 @ 11 psi. mustve hit the max effiency of the stock turbo around 10 psi then instead of 13?
ill post the dyno sheets if i can get my scanner to work
Ahhhhhhhh hhh....
Joined: May 2003
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From: www.wRongPeople.com
Re: GTUs TII dyno
Originally posted by DelSlow
took it to get it dynoed before i get a microtech and hybrid, was expecting around 200 hp, but put down 245 whp 230 tq @10 psi this is on stock turbo, stock ecu, stock injectors.
unfortunatly, my afr's are in the 12-13 range! im surprised i havnt gotten any detonation. its weird, i dynoed 246 @ 12 psi, 247 @ 11 psi. mustve hit the max effiency of the stock turbo around 10 psi then instead of 13?
ill post the dyno sheets if i can get my scanner to work
took it to get it dynoed before i get a microtech and hybrid, was expecting around 200 hp, but put down 245 whp 230 tq @10 psi
this is on stock turbo, stock ecu, stock injectors.unfortunatly, my afr's are in the 12-13 range! im surprised i havnt gotten any detonation. its weird, i dynoed 246 @ 12 psi, 247 @ 11 psi. mustve hit the max effiency of the stock turbo around 10 psi then instead of 13?
ill post the dyno sheets if i can get my scanner to work
your hp numbers make me sad...
check the last line of my sig...
my a/fs are 11:1 and my timing is turned back about 5 degrees... i was shooting for safe tune, not numbers...But numbers are nice too.
let me get my fmic and some bigger injectors in and ill have some nifty numbers.
Last edited by Jaared; Jun 28, 2004 at 01:30 AM.
Re: GTUs TII dyno
Originally posted by DelSlow
took it to get it dynoed before i get a microtech and hybrid, was expecting around 200 hp, but put down 245 whp 230 tq @10 psi this is on stock turbo, stock ecu, stock injectors.
unfortunatly, my afr's are in the 12-13 range! im surprised i havnt gotten any detonation. its weird, i dynoed 246 @ 12 psi, 247 @ 11 psi. mustve hit the max effiency of the stock turbo around 10 psi then instead of 13?
ill post the dyno sheets if i can get my scanner to work
took it to get it dynoed before i get a microtech and hybrid, was expecting around 200 hp, but put down 245 whp 230 tq @10 psi
this is on stock turbo, stock ecu, stock injectors.unfortunatly, my afr's are in the 12-13 range! im surprised i havnt gotten any detonation. its weird, i dynoed 246 @ 12 psi, 247 @ 11 psi. mustve hit the max effiency of the stock turbo around 10 psi then instead of 13?
ill post the dyno sheets if i can get my scanner to work
have you done a compression test on that engine? those sound like very liberal numbers for only 10psi, but i bet alot of it is that its running so lean
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Thread Starter
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From: Marion, Ohio
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as you can see, my turbo must be maxed out at around 10 psi? scary lean too, AFR's flatten out at just under 13 at 10 psi. im very surprised i havnt blown my motor. oh well, crazy fuel is waiting to be installed
as you can see, my turbo must be maxed out at around 10 psi? scary lean too, AFR's flatten out at just under 13 at 10 psi. im very surprised i havnt blown my motor. oh well, crazy fuel is waiting to be installed
Last edited by DelSlow; Jul 5, 2004 at 02:21 PM.
wait, i just looked at your mods list... i would think that if you have a walbro you should be fine at 10psi.
looks like your power wasnt going up when you were running more than 10psi because it was getting so lean that the power was actually dropping...
looks like your power wasnt going up when you were running more than 10psi because it was getting so lean that the power was actually dropping...
Last edited by jacobcartmill; Jul 5, 2004 at 02:27 PM.
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From: Greater Vancouver Area, BC, Canada
...just to remind you all, stoich is 14.5. 12 is still rich. 10:1 is rediculously so, and unneccessary if your intake temps aren't rediculously high: ten psi isn't even close to double atmospheric, so suppose that you double and a little bit ambient temps, even at the full 9x at TDC it's not hot enough to combust 93 octane on its own. injecting like crazy is necessary on street gas for 20psi to keep intake temps low, but again your numbers are awesome for 10psi 'cause you're hitting the (upper) efficiency range of the compressor and not going overboard with the fuel.
if it's not broke, why "fix" it??
if it's not broke, why "fix" it??
Ahhhhhhhh hhh....
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From: www.wRongPeople.com
Originally posted by wakeech
...just to remind you all, stoich is 14.5. 12 is still rich. 10:1 is rediculously so, and unneccessary if your intake temps aren't rediculously high: ten psi isn't even close to double atmospheric, so suppose that you double and a little bit ambient temps, even at the full 9x at TDC it's not hot enough to combust 93 octane on its own. injecting like crazy is necessary on street gas for 20psi to keep intake temps low, but again your numbers are awesome for 10psi 'cause you're hitting the (upper) efficiency range of the compressor and not going overboard with the fuel.
if it's not broke, why "fix" it??
...just to remind you all, stoich is 14.5. 12 is still rich. 10:1 is rediculously so, and unneccessary if your intake temps aren't rediculously high: ten psi isn't even close to double atmospheric, so suppose that you double and a little bit ambient temps, even at the full 9x at TDC it's not hot enough to combust 93 octane on its own. injecting like crazy is necessary on street gas for 20psi to keep intake temps low, but again your numbers are awesome for 10psi 'cause you're hitting the (upper) efficiency range of the compressor and not going overboard with the fuel.
if it's not broke, why "fix" it??
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Greater Vancouver Area, BC, Canada
Originally posted by Jaared
do you own a rotary? i hope not. your quoting a/f numbers for a piston engine.
do you own a rotary? i hope not. your quoting a/f numbers for a piston engine.
as i said, this isn't my motor, but i do seriously think that it's uber overkill to run a/f ratios that are so damned rich, killing power and probably spark plugs (not that it matters). being that you guys are running a measely 10psi on 93, and being that your compression ratios are still at 9:1 like they've always been, explain to me how you're going to grenade your engine when everything is in working order at those temp levels.
if you said to me that intake temps are STILL getting too high, i say duct your bloody intercooler better. the guys who must run rediculously rich on street gas because they have no other choice are the ones way over 16psi.
his engine is making good power right now, and is supposedly running A-OK. why "fix" a problem that doesn't exist??
stop stealing my avatar
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From: Canton MI
You are correct about the a/f being same.
I have read about many people that don't gain/lose much power by running in the high 10's vs mid 11's. Also, why not run rich? I don't want to put my street car right on the edge for 15whp.
From what I have read, you have to run a rotary richer because of it's longer thermal cycle, and long shapped combustion chamber.
I have read about many people that don't gain/lose much power by running in the high 10's vs mid 11's. Also, why not run rich? I don't want to put my street car right on the edge for 15whp.
From what I have read, you have to run a rotary richer because of it's longer thermal cycle, and long shapped combustion chamber.
you have to run a rotary rich because the risk of engine damage from even minor detonation is much greater than that of a piston engine.
well, you dont HAVE to run it rich, but thats the ideology behind "safe" rotary tuning.
well, you dont HAVE to run it rich, but thats the ideology behind "safe" rotary tuning.
Originally Posted by wakeech
...just to remind you all, stoich is 14.5. 12 is still rich. 10:1 is rediculously so, and unneccessary if your intake temps aren't rediculously high: ten psi isn't even close to double atmospheric, so suppose that you double and a little bit ambient temps, even at the full 9x at TDC it's not hot enough to combust 93 octane on its own. injecting like crazy is necessary on street gas for 20psi to keep intake temps low, but again your numbers are awesome for 10psi 'cause you're hitting the (upper) efficiency range of the compressor and not going overboard with the fuel.
detonation can happen in the 12's AFR's on a turbo car.
do you have an NA? i hope you dont have a TII. go run 93 octane in your TII and tune for high 13's afr's. then go out and ream the **** out of in on a hot day after sitting in some traffic with a heatsoaked intercooler and see if you dont detonate a few times.
Originally Posted by wakeech
if it's not broke, why "fix" it??
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From: Pembroke Pines, FL
Nice numbers dude!! I too have a GTUs that I recently put a T2 motor with Microtech. Should have it running by the end of the week. If I get anything close to those numbers I'd be more than happy.
stop stealing my avatar
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From: Canton MI
jacob is right.
You have to have a working knowledge of detination, and preignition to understand why you have to run a rotary richer.
Basicly-
Having more fuel in the mixture makes it harder to combust.
Preignition is when the mixture ignites before the spark plug fires.
Detination is a violent explosion after the plug fires. Detination normally occurs when teh flame front is advancing accross the combustion chamber, heating and compressing the mixture. If the mixture is easy to combust (cheap gas, too much air) it will spitainously ignite. This usually occurs in the outer edge of the chamber. Picture a rotary chamber, it's long and narrow compaird to a otto cycle motor. The flame has further to travel out word, and when/if a ping does occur, it is usually right on teh apex seals
that said, I dont understand why one would not worry about running afr's that have been proven by many to be in the danger zone.
You have to have a working knowledge of detination, and preignition to understand why you have to run a rotary richer.
Basicly-
Having more fuel in the mixture makes it harder to combust.
Preignition is when the mixture ignites before the spark plug fires.
Detination is a violent explosion after the plug fires. Detination normally occurs when teh flame front is advancing accross the combustion chamber, heating and compressing the mixture. If the mixture is easy to combust (cheap gas, too much air) it will spitainously ignite. This usually occurs in the outer edge of the chamber. Picture a rotary chamber, it's long and narrow compaird to a otto cycle motor. The flame has further to travel out word, and when/if a ping does occur, it is usually right on teh apex seals
that said, I dont understand why one would not worry about running afr's that have been proven by many to be in the danger zone.
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From: Marion, Ohio
Im not worried about it at all now. why? because its apart in my garage right now getting rc engineering 700cc primaries, bosch 1600cc secondaries, k2rd secondary fuel rail, aeromotive fpr, microtech lt-8, and a bnr stage 4 installed. Hopefully will be done by end of august when i should have my turbo back. Anyone want to buy an s5 t2 OMP w/ injectors? 550cc high imp injectors?