ForceFed

I don't know what you have for fuel, but if you have enough for 13-15psi, then I'd maybe try to ask Steve to tune for that on pump gas. Between a tune for that kind of boost you'll need to be able to rip off a good 1-2 shift, preferably without lifting and you need to perfect your 2-3 shift so that it is nearly as fast as your 1-2 shift. Also, time your clutchwork/shifts such that you're only pushing in the clutch as your car is going into the next gear. For example, when I either racing someone or at the track I never pushed in the clutch and pulled the car out of gear. While racing, the only time I engaged the clutch was while I was pushing the car into the next gear and even then the clutch travel was still only about 3/4 of its total travel. I hope this makes sense to you. Between a super quick 1-2 and 2-3 shift there is several tenths and 2-3+MPH to be had.

tcb100

I never lift between shifts to any gear at the dragstrip. However, pretty easy to screw it up & since I'm on my fourth tranny, I think I will change my ways.

Pay for two tunes, pump gas and race gas & get the ET Streets.

snub disphenoid

I'm going to have Steve tune for the maximum boost he thinks will be safe/reliable. I have a completely stock motor, rebuilt with 3000 miles on it, so I'm probably not going to be pushing over 15psi. I'll get a pair of stockers, throw some drag radials on, and maybe put some motorcycle tires on two of the spare tire wheels to use as skinnies.

I get what you mean about shifting, but that just wasn't possible with the low-profile street tires I was using my first time out. I would spin/wheel hop pretty bad off the line, and if I shifted too hard into second my car would get REALLY sideways, and I lost traction going into third a few times. I mean, you guys know how bad 18's are for straight line traction, and it also doesn't help how shitty the track prep is at my local dragstrip.

Before I take the car out again, I want it to be ready for the strip. Diff brace, new rear pillowballs, toe links and trailing arms, as well as solid diff mounts. Also, I'd like to have a heavy duty clutch installed, as well as an engine torque brace to keep the shifter from moving around (I hate mis-shifting). That way I'll be able to properly beat the living hell out of the car without things like wheel hop or a shifty shifter getting in the way.

Anyone think I can break into the 11's and trap 115+ with 15psi out of the Knightsports sequential twins?

tcb100

Safe/reliable depends on the fuel you are running. Use 103 and you can run the max boost the twins will put out. You don't need motorcycle tires or skinnies. Waste of money.

Personally, I would pass on the drag radials. Stock wheels up front, stock wheels & ET streets on the rear at 12 PSI. Wheel hop is over but you need a clutch that can hold it when you hook up.

In my opinion the torque brace is a good idea as is a B&M Shifter. No obvious reason to go with solid diff mounts, toe links, or trailing arms if you run ET streets. All that stuff messes with the ride of the car on the street.

ET Streets are only for the track. They suck in any other circumstance and watch out for swaying at high speeds with the low tire pressure. Gentle corrections.

And don't worry about power shifting until you have made lots of runs and are real comfortable dragging. It's not hard to screw up your tranny, they cost a lot to replace, and are expensive & a bear to rebuild.

GregFD3S

you probably ot somewhere like a 0.0002 60"... (lol @ 60 inches) 60 foot is a different story

LUPE

I ran again last night. As you can tell, I was standing on the brakes on the big end.


Video:

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/c...4900b58837.htm


Timeslip :

http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/2...0119mphhl5.jpg

aoc007

iTrader: (5)

Dragged the FD today, no timeslip scan yet but she ran: 13.461 @ 106.87, need to fix my 2.267 60' I know she can break 13!

94tkt

i have DP, cat back, pettit intake, pettit intercooler, greddy pullies, sequential turbos, street port, and the boost is 12on the first and 9 when the 2nd one kicks in. what should i be running at sea level

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

mid 12's. Depends on the driver! Cut a 1.8 60 or better and you should be in th 12's no problem! If you can cut a better 60 then high 11's are possible. I ran 12.3 back when I wasrunning the twins and a stockport with 1.8 60's with basic bolt ons as you listed above.

94tkt

what tires are you running? i have the stock rims sitting in my garage, can you recommend any radials that wont empty my wallet but still hook up and last a decent amount.

silverrex368

any one use automatic and ran good time and how the tran hold up

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

I ran 1.8's on street tires but wheel hop was real bad. I have also run MT streets and BFG drag radials. I never launched hard with the MT's but managed to get low 1.7's on the BFG's. Now if I was buying a new set, thats easy... MT Drag radials with out a doubt! I have heard they even out due the MT streets that have next to no side wall.. So in short the MT Drag radials should out perform the MT streets and have better streetability (cornering and less drifting on the highway).

94tkt

how did you run so low in the 12s though with just the basic bolt ons? do u have a computer of any sort?

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

Back then I was running pettit stock mount IC, downpipe, midpipe, catback, intake, HKS F-con ecu, upgraded fuel pump. I consider that basic bolt on's. Best time was 12.3 in 1/4. Did have some better 1/8th mile times. I have read of many going much faster (into the 11's) with similar mods. From what I have learned the 60 foot time . Say you run 2 runs with the same et-mph. But on one of them you cut a 2.0 and the other a 1.8. Thats going to make the one .4 faster on the et! So one run would have been, say 12.7 and the other 12.3!

94tkt

and how did you not have boost creep with the stock turbos? did u use restrictor plates at all?

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

what engine management system? crank the boost to 14 psi if you have enough fuel and can get tuned for it

94tkt

i have the stock ECU i was either gonna go with the power fc or the pettit unlimited.

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

I use a old school profec B boost controller. Years later on the dyno I did notice some small boost creep. So not sure if I had any back then but if I did it was 1-2 psi max. Skip the pettit and get the PFC. If I was still runing twins I would have keep the F-con (HKS). It did well for me. 325rwhp-13.5psi

ArmenMAxx

iTrader: (21)

for all u ~300WHP guys, wats the best times uve got on street tires/radials (non slick tires)

matty

mid 12s @ 110mph

aoc007

iTrader: (5)

Sounds about right provided a good launch.

ArmenMAxx

iTrader: (21)

sounds good. The race track here is at a very high elevation so i need to get some math in to find the real times ima get.

aoc007

iTrader: (5)

rx7.com has a good acceleration calculator: http://www.rx7.com/accel_calculator.html doesn't factor in environmental variables and it's only a best case scenario.

-Andy

streetdreamzny

iTrader: (6)

from englishtown last night at street wars

60' - 1.581
330 - 4.734
1/8 - 7.338
mph - 97.88
1000 - 9.654
1/4 - 11.409
mph - 123.64

on drag radials and 15 pounds of boost

stalkn_etsv8s

13.46 ET at around 100mph stock everything except Apexi intake